no1herenow

Thanks! A total coincidence, but I just found the Bill Fitzmaurice site just earlier today.... (the Tuba 60 makes me drool ;-) I have the space for one or two of them. That site is a wealth of knowledge. All the Khorns I built have backs on them, that look similar to the TSCM. If I turn them around, I think I will need to put something somewhat acoustically reflective on the walls, as they are all carpeted. I would like to put them on top of each other, to minimize the spouse-disapproval factor.

Ok, I have 7 Khorns (one real, and 6 I built from 1945 plans). Though primarily just for listening, they are wired into a soundbooth in my house to also do the 5.1 thing.... I plan on stacking two of the bass units in one corner, and then the other 5 are for the HT... (2 front, 2 rear, one center) I am interested in what happens to the frequency response when I stack the two bass units together in a corner (twice the mouth area, twice the circumference). I haven't played with this horn stuff in 30 years, I will likely replace the bass drivers and get a few Crown amplifiers for more capability. What I have been told from other forums is just to build some large tapped horns... But I would like to see what a stacked pair will do... I can get a spectrum analyzer from work, but any insight before I go through the labor of moving them all around would be very helpful (and on my spine, too). The room is not that big (roughly 27' x 36'), but the walls are all carpeted, and there is a separate soundbooth to keep the fan noise to a minimum. For the short term, I would like to set this up at this house, while I complete the sound room in the other house (36' x 100') woo-hoo ;-) So I need some stacked-folded-horn fundamentals for idiots like me. (I could put 4 together, but that makes corner placement tough).

I am new to this forum... but am getting back into the fun of audio.... Here is a pic of my first folded horn I built when I was 16... reverse-engineered from the original K-horn plans (thanks to the folks at the then-Bell Labs). I used Nova-Ply rather than MDF or 16-ply birch, as its density is much higher, and much more stable (though it IS true that it sparks if you turn off the lights when cutting it with a saw. It is also really hard on carbide blades, as it glue content is very high. http://home.comcast.net/~hempsp928/pwpi ... ipsch1.jpg Second picture is a later version: http://home.comcast.net/~hempsp928/pwpi ... 010020.JPG I still have 5 of them, (which is great for home theater). I have a sound room with a sound booth and carpeted walls. All the amplifiers are home-brew. I use JBL drivers now, 2450H for midrange, 2426H for tweeter. Everything is tri-amped. I am now looking to extend the low-end range significantly... (10-30Hz) Am working on a design using two motors (one for frequency, one for amplitude) driving a 36" dual aluminum cone, sandwiching carbon fiber honeycomb in between them. For the rubber surround, I am using a section of a tractor-trailer innertube. One thing I found that worked well for subwoofers (ok, this was 25 years ago), was to get one of the old HP 6-platter hard drives (the one I had was only 20MB, and the size of a washing machine)... but it had a 4-inch equivalent of a voice coil, was very powerful and fast, and was easy to control as it had all the motor control hardware. It could drive a 25" woofer hard.