twalkonline

Have a couple pairs of standard heresys that have been "industrialized", but haven't gotten around to doing the grills.

Has anyone measured or is anyone privy to T/S parameters for the K-24 woofer? I'm intrigued by the use of the same woofer in the Heresy II as well as the ported Tangent 400.

Have been following the earlier KP-115 thread as I, too, just picked up a KP-115. I haven't powered mine yet as it needs a couple of physical/hardware fixes. In the meantime I was wondering... Most posts about the 115 cite poor performance. According to the literature there were versions that did NOT have the internal crossover? Has anyone run one of these without the internal crossover and if so, are the results any better? Does anyone have a schematic of the crossover? I didn't trace it out, but I'm assuming it's just a 12dB/oct low pass with 6dB/oct (single cap) high pass to the HF Out and those big honkin' resistors are across the HF out for the sake of amplifier loading if nothing is connected to the HF Out. Can anyone confirm that or set me straight otherwise? Has anyone using the internal crossover made any mods that helped? The 6mH inductor in mine reads about 1 ohm dc resistance - that's easily 10% of your power sucked up by the inductor. Anyone ever replaced the inductor with one of those ultra-low resistance inductors? I'm not above doing that, but I'd like to know in advance if it's going to help before I spend more on one inductor than I spent on the sub! Colter, if you're out there (and I know you are), you said you've seen lots of these things fried. What fries and is there a common cause other than just too much power? Would appreciate any comments. Thanks.

Any progress with the Kp 115 project? I'm interested as I just picked up one of these, but I haven't had a chance to test or play with it yet. I'm concerned about the output issue and wonder if it's a crossover deficiency or an inherent problem with driver, box, design or all of the above. I'll probably be bi-amping mine, but I do have one application where a passive crossover would come in handy, but it won't work if the sensitivity isn't somewhere in the range of the published 101dB. Does anyone have a crossover schematic? I'm curious as to what those big wire wound resistors do? Please advise if and when you get back on the project. Thanks and good luck.

I got the info from the Penn Elcom website and it's hard to tell how much recess there is on the 1536 corner or if it's the same part on your KP301's. The drawing for the part really only shows outside dimensions. Have not contacted Penn Elcom. I just assume that they sell larger quantities and I need to find a dealer, like Parts Express, who carries them. Maybe Parts Express could special order a few. Haven't checked with them, either. Better yet, maybe there's a business opportunity here if I order a big quantity to sell to all the KP owners whose corners that have cracked and split. (Perhaps I'll corner the market! - da dum - I'm here all week, folks....) I've used lots of the 1539's from Parts Express on other cabinets, but this is the first pair of proper KP's that I've re-cornered. It's good to know that they will work, but if I find out anything on the others, I'll share it. I was just hoping that someone else had already been through this. One other thing I thought was funny - the only photo of a KP-301 on the Klipsch website is that of the KP-301 II and it has a corner missing in the photo! What's up with that? Was that the only photo they had? They couldn't find one more corner for the photo? Or at least take one off the rear and put it on the front for the photo for cryin' out loud!

Thanks, guys. I hate to make a big deal over some 60 cent plastic corners, but I can't help it...(It's an anal engineering thing...my wife says I can't write on anythng except graph paper...you get the picture...) Anyway, my KP-201's all have a type of corner which lock together with what I would describe as bubble and dimple instead of ribs. They have a definite lip that allows them to sit flush on the cabinet while retaining the protective extrusions. Was this style standard from Klipsch at some point? Going back through the klipsch site, most of the pro products pictured show a ribbed Penn Elcom type corner. I can't tell from the photos how well they fit or if they are truly flush, but I do know that PE makes a version of the same ribbed corner with clearance for the edge protector extrusions they sell. It's part no. C1536. Parts Express carries, the same part WITHOUT clearance for extrusion, p/n C1539. Can anyone confirm that the Klipsch corner is indeed the same 1539 that Parts Express carries and not the 1536? Anyone ever held a 1536 corner in your hand? Anyone know where to buy them?

Sorry for the late reply, but I used a couple of pairs of standard Heresy'sas monitors for years with good results. I powered them with a Carvin "monitor amp". Sorry, I don't remember the model no., but it was bout 700 watts total, two channel with a 9-band graphic for each channel. I used them as main PA speakers in small venues and as monitors with larger systems in larger venues. I know 700 watts is enough to fry four standard Heresy's, but I never did. I added a 1.5A slo-blow fuse on the input, as was done with the industrial heresy's, but I never added zener diodes or a poly switch to protect the tweeter. Always intended to, but never got around to it. Never blew anything. Never even popped a fuse. I damaged a woofer (the magnet popped off) when I dropped one, but never cooked anything with too much power. One other thing you might find useful: I mounted a 1" pipe floor flange on the back of the cabinets. When I needed "tilt back" operation, I would screw in a 6" pipe nipple with a rubber foot on the end. This gave me a stable angled monitor. Hope this helps.

Does anyone know of a source for direct, exact replacement for KP series corners? I'm familiar with the Penn-Elcom corners from Parts Express et al, but they don't won't sit flush on the plastic extrusion edge protectors. Would appreciate recommendations.

Of course at 99dB sensitivity, I'll be putting less power to them for a given output level. At least I have that going for me.

I have a couple of KP-201 that were cannibalized for parts. I was thinking about purchasing a couple of HIII upgrade kits. Will be using mostly for indoor recorded music playback, although they could see some light duty, live PA work. Has anyone else done this? Any reason I shouldn't? I've used standard Heresy's for PA and monitors for years. Any reason to expect HIII would be less durable? Should I incorporate a polyswitch as per the KP's? Would appreciate any comments, insight or similar experience. Thanks.

Thanks. Photo is very helpful. I was imagining something much more complicated. So it's basically a 12 x 12 piece of expanded metal sandwiched between the motorboard and a 12 x12 piece of 1/2" plywood. So it's the "goo" that maintains the airtight seal. Any idea what it is? Liquid Nails, RTV?

Thanks. Can you comment on the slightly larger KP-201? And am I to believe that you don't think the HII to HIII is a good thing?

Has anyone ever fitted a standard Heresy with an expanded metal grill inside the motor board as per the HI or HIP? Does anyone have a photo of what that contraption looks like and how the speaker actually mounts to it? Would appreciate help. Thanks

Heresy and HII are basically same dimensions, so I assume same internal volume, assuming MDF enclosure is also 3/4". KP-201 is slightly larger, maybe 150 cubic inches. Is this to allow for some internal bracing, stand socket, handle or something else? HIII spec shows it to be about 2.5" taller than H or HII. Is this because the spec dimension includes the riser? Otherwise, enclosure is about 0.2 cu. ft. larger. Any affect on HII to HIII upgrade? Would appreciate it if someone can confirm above for me. Thanks