TP143

I am giving these away if someone will pay shipping/packaging. I have looked into a few locations and shipping tends to be $70-$100 depending on proximity to MT.

In Bozeman, MT 59718. Willing to ship if buyer pays shipping.

I picked up a pair of Heresy 1's locally and unfortunately did not anticipate needing to spend additional to maintenance them (nearly all crossover parts were bad and drivers were dinged up). Anyway I sold the good parts and tossed the bad, and now have some empty boxes. I am not looking to get much, I would just like to see these live on through someone who possibly has some original parts laying around. Cabinets are HBR from 1980 and one is in nearly perfect condition while the other has two quarter size areas filled with wood filler where a ding must have occurred. Both have the black grills w/ Klipsch logo attached and one has the original info sticker on the back, while the other does not. They really are in great condition for their age. If anyone is interested please make an offer. I am located in Bozeman, MT 59718. Thanks!

I have decided on the first route which includes a higher cap value for the squaker. How important is it to match the uf value to 21? I see Dayton and Jantzen offer 20uf and 22uf. Are either of these ok or do I need to perfectly match? Also, in general is it worth the extra cost for lesser tolerance (1% verse 5%) in capacitors? Same goes for the resistors - Albright recommends 11ohm/20w and the closest I can find on PE is 10ohm/25w. Or else I can get 11ohm in 10w. Thanks again!

Would you say both methods described above give the same effect? I ask because the note about a smooth response curve is only mentioned on the second option. If they give the same effect, I will likely go route #2 allowing me to keep all cap values at 2uf. I have posted a pic of this mod below; can someone explain how the resistor is connected to the plate, or if soldered to the "risers," how to make these and connect to the plate? http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/p/96341/1004714.aspx Thanks!

Can someone give some direction on how I would "drop the horn down 3db?" This has been mentioned a few times and if it as easy as re-soldering to a different flange on the autotransformer I would be willing to try. Would be an easy un-do if the sound was no improvement. Also, has anyone scrapped the soldering with the autotransformer and woofer connections and installed metal clips that slide onto the flanges? Can't remember what these are called but I have seen them and it seems one could avoid the hassle of soldering. Thanks

I have made a few small mods based on member recommendation and past forum discussions and am happy so far. I think the next is too replace the crossover. I decided that I would like a new type of cap and inductor and will be building my own. So, I am offering my current crossovers for sale. I apologize if this is not the correct place within the forum for selling. If anyone is interested in a pair of clean, perfectly working type E crossovers for the Heresy, please let me know. I have seen singles go on Ebay for $69 so I am asking $110 for the pair. I just want to free up some funds for the crossover rebuild. Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far!

Has anyone here experimented with updating the woofer in their Heresy? I would hesitate with the Dayton another user here suggested awhile back due to comprimising the authenticity of the the speaker, but I would think Crites replacement driver wouldn't be considered "cheating" since it is the same paper based surround technology, but with heavier output.

Well guys, I experimented a bit tonight and I am very pleased with what I heard. I have never been a believer in placement but now I am. I did place them on my current bookshelf stands (they are small but it did the job) and moved them closer to the wall. I did not move them to the corners since my equipment rack is in one corner and the christmas tree in the other. But, just sliding them back and raising them made a noticeable improvement, with respect to the shrillness. I will still plan on replacing the caps as they are 31 years old. My original minor complaint of lack of bass is still present. Does anyone have any recommendations on how to enhance the bass? I am still considering stuffing the boxes but am waiting on more suggestions, I especially want to make sure I will not start an internal fire if the polyfill presses against the crossover network. Besides this, does anyone have suggestions on how to improve bass? Thanks again everyone for the suggestions, I am very happy with the minor tweaks made so far. Also, I want to permanently raise these beasts and need some suggestions on stands. I would prefer to make them so I would need suggestions on material/size of base/top and what designs you have seen for the vertical "pillars" (or possibly a single tube filled with sand?).

I will get exact measurements tonight but off memory they are sitting on a rug (but do have built in 1" risers) about 2-3 feet from the back wall and 4 feet from the side wall, with maybe 3 feet in between each one with nothing in between. My living room is about 12 feet wide by 25 feet long and they sit on the short wall and point into the lengthly living room. In between the right speaker and wall (about 4 feet) is my audio rack so there probably is only a foot between the speaker and the rack, but the speaker is further out in the room than the rack so they are not directly side-by-side. I have 10 foot ceilings, hardwood floors with multiple rugs, and many decorative tables,couches, paintings spread around the living room. On a side note, I have read quite a bit about filling the cabinets with polyfill. Has anyone done this and, if so, did it improve sound in your opinion? If so, how thick do you pack it and is there concern with the polyfill touching the backs of the components or the crossover network?

Are there options as to different model crossovers available that will give different sound? I really would like to tame the brightness. I noticed a '2' on the capacitors in my speakers, if this helps.

Yes, these are what I was asking about. Thanks! As for recommended maintenance, is it recommended that I replace any of these parts? Also, getting back to my original question, I see many recommendations for capacitor upgrades to tone down the shrillness. Does anyone have recommendations to the parts I need to purchase and instructions on how to install? Thanks again

I currenly have them hooked up to a Panasonic XR55, which is known to be a little bright. I have an old Marantz 1122DC amp that I am thinking about bringing out. Can someone explain what the two metal objects are inside the cabinets, along with the two sticky-looking objects?

Hi all, I am a proud new owner of some 1980 Heresy 1's and am interested in dabbling in some of the modification/regular maintenance ideas I have read about on these forums. First of all, I am completely new to this idea and have little audio knowledge so I apologize in advance for the naiveness. All parts are original according to the original owner I purchased these from. After first listen I find these speakers, as many do according to my research, shrill and lacking in bass. I am interested in hearing your ideas for toning the shrillness down (my biggest concern) and improving the depth of the bass (a lesser concern). So far I have read stuffing the cabinets (but I am not sure what material - please suggest), applying toiletpaper over the squaker opening, applying puddy material to the outside of the horns (please suggest material), replacing the capacitors (this is where I really need suggestions and elementary level instructions on how to). I know my crossover network is "E", not "E2"and I have read making this upgrade is simple but please let me know if worth the effort. Any other cheap suggestions you have are greatly appreciated. Also, can someone please explain what the parts inside the cabinets are called, their purpose, and if they need replaced after 30 years. Thanks!