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Serge_S

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Posts posted by Serge_S

  1. 17 minutes ago, JBCODD said:

    I am Not a moderator, but your post does not seem to violate the rules.

     

      However the usual custom is to:

         Post here first, with lots of pix (fellers here love pix) and a caveat that slow interest will lead to an outside listing

    or

       "I have posted this item on site a, b, or c with an asking price of $XXX. It is available to forum members for price $YYY.

     

    Again, lots of pix help the sale. Good luck with your sale.

     

          JBCODD

     

    Thanks JBCODD,  

     

    I'll make more pics in the next couple of days. Maybe will pull the cover off and do few of internals.

     

    $1200 for both pieces. This tbh is discounted compared to what they go for on interwebs, but I would consider further discount for folks on this site.

     

    I can only do local sale though. These are too heavy for me to pack and lug them to post office.


    Serge

  2.  

     

    I recently auditioned the relatively new Benchmark AHB2 amplifier.

    ....

    It now has a permanent home in my system and I couldnt be happier.

    ....

    Josh

    

    Hi Josh. How does your new Benchmark perform at low volume? Is there anything lost at low volume when compared to your normal listening level? Have you tried different gain settings? What’s your preamp, other than Benchmark DAC? Thanks

    Serge

     

    I have used the Benchmark DAC as the preamp using the George Wright Phono stage . I have also used My Juicy Music Merlin preamp using the George Wright Phono. I prefer using the Merlin but the Dac on its own is pretty remarkable . The Benchmark has three input gain settings. I can switch betweent he three and find the quality that pleases. I cannot tell you what the gain numbers are - Im sure they are on the Benchmark Website. The manual says to use one with pro audio and one of the others for other preamps. Its pretty easy to hear and find the input that works best with your preamp. The Amp continues to amaze. It is truly another world!

     

    Josh

     

     

    Thanks Josh.  How's Benchmark's low volume performance?  Is much lost when compared to normal levels.

  3. I recently auditioned the relatively new Benchmark AHB2 amplifier.

    ....

    It now has a permanent home in my system and I couldnt be happier.

    ....

    Josh

    

    Hi Josh. How does your new Benchmark perform at low volume? Is there anything lost at low volume when compared to your normal listening level? Have you tried different gain settings? What’s your preamp, other than Benchmark DAC? Thanks

    Serge

  4.  

     

    Here is a thread on the corrected Forte 2 network diagram. It seems the polarity is NOT reversed on the midhorn.

     

    Forte-II corrected crossover diagram

     

    I think I got it.  Ordinarily,  the polarity reversal would be taken care of within the network and “+” at the board would still go to “+” of the driver, even if the actual polarity is reversed (is this assumption correct?).  My Forte II’s are from 1990 and still have boards marked “Forte” and show reversed mids and highs clearly marked at the board’s terminals.  According to schematics, Forte’s have only mids reversed(within the network) and highs not reversed and I assume show pluses at the board going to pluses of the drivers for all drivers(would be great if anyone could verify this).  The corrected Forte II diagram above shows the highs reversed and mids not reversed.  When re-using the old Forte’s board, Klipsch could only take care of the reversal either at the board’s terminals or at drivers terminals, but not within the network itself.  My tweeters do have terminals clearly marked and pos of the driver is connected to neg marking at the board.  All this leads me to believe that my mid’s negative at the board(again clearly marked) is connected to positive of the midrange driver(which for some reason is marked with random character “R”).  Does this make sense?

     

    Yes..........this is what I was suggesting.  :)   Something else...........I am also suggesting that the white mark is not an "R" at all.  It's nothing more than a squiggle to mark the positive terminal of the driver.  I'm guessing.  I have drivers with marks on the positive termiansl that just look like squiggles.

     

    Klipsch also marked the speaker wire terminals on older models.  I have a pair of 1973 vertical conrwalls and the speaker terminals have red squiggles on them to mark the positives.

     

     

    Mark,  you were right.  Reversing polarity at the drivers didn't make sense.  What threw me off originally is that both highs and mids on mine are reversed at the board which didn't correspond to the Forte II schematics.

  5. Here is a thread on the corrected Forte 2 network diagram. It seems the polarity is NOT reversed on the midhorn.

     

    Forte-II corrected crossover diagram

     

    I think I got it.  Ordinarily,  the polarity reversal would be taken care of within the network and “+” at the board would still go to “+” of the driver, even if the actual polarity is reversed (is this assumption correct?).  My Forte II’s are from 1990 and still have boards marked “Forte” and show reversed mids and highs clearly marked at the board’s terminals.  According to schematics, Forte’s have only mids reversed(within the network) and highs not reversed and I assume show pluses at the board going to pluses of the drivers for all drivers(would be great if anyone could verify this).  The corrected Forte II diagram above shows the highs reversed and mids not reversed.  When re-using the old Forte’s board, Klipsch could only take care of the reversal either at the board’s terminals or at drivers terminals, but not within the network itself.  My tweeters do have terminals clearly marked and pos of the driver is connected to neg marking at the board.  All this leads me to believe that my mid’s negative at the board(again clearly marked) is connected to positive of the midrange driver(which for some reason is marked with random character “R”).  Does this make sense?

  6.  

    For as long as I can remember Klipsch always marked the + terminal with a marker.  I have cornwalls and heresys with red marks.  I had Khorns with white marks like in the photo of the original post.

    As mentioned earlier, the Forte II network has the polarity reversed on the squaker. This might be why they indicated with white and with an R. The R indicates connect the red wire here even though it is actually the negative terminal.

     

    If they would have used '+' or a red dot, then a person without the schematic or the ability to read it, might connect the driver backwards. A white 'R' is the perfect answer.

     

    I speculate 'R' = negative, and it is where you will connect the POSITIVE wire.

     

    It looks to me like there is a '-' (minus sign) in the plastic where the left part of the 'R' is. That would confirm my hypothesis.

     

    edit: The Forte schematic shows the reverse polarity correctly. The Forte II schematic shows a dead short on the left of the 1.5uF cap. This is a misprint, I am sure. The feeder to that cap should come from the positive wire and end. The positive and negative wires should not be shorted together after that. See diagram notes:

     

     

    If R is negative, than mids connect from reversed at the board to negative on the driver which would mean polarity is not reversed.

     

    What looks like the '-'(minus sign) is metal terminal reflecting in the plastic.

  7. Bob Crites site says the + terminal is marked.  Go to his site and it shows step by step how to replace the diaphragm on the driver.

     

    I also did a search on the network themselves.  You can find pics that show the wires on the squawker reversed on the network PC board.

     

    What it looks like is that the + is marked.   The yellow wire goes to the +, black to the -.  The wires are then reversed on the PC board.  They are not connected backwards on the driver.

    Thanks Mark.  Bob's site reports different marking from the one I have.  It's yellow dot.

     

    I tend to agree that wires are reversed on the PC board only.  If so, looking at the marking on the board I have both highs and mids reversed.

  8. Thanks WMcD,

    I took the driver apart without realizing that diaphragm is integrated into a phase plug and the “R” marking was actually on the visible surface of the phase plug.  So taking the driver apart didn’t help.  I did notice another marking near the same terminal where “R” is.  It’s a small circle with “PM” in it.  Does that indicate polarity?

    Question about schematics.  I see there are 2 diagrams floating on this forum, the old one in the link you pasted and this one:

    https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/87353-forte-ii-corrected-crossover-diagram/

    I don’t read schematics, but from what I could guess looking at the corrected diagram midrange is not reversed.  The old schematic looks ambiguous to me.  If I cannot figure out the polarity from the markings on the driver, maybe I can figure it from how the old network was connected?

     

    Serge

  9. Do you know the 9v battery test?  I'm thinking it will also work with a D battery and a couple of speaker wires.  I don't know if this will work with a squawker.

     

    Edit:  The more I think about it, there is probably no way this would work with a CD.  Sorry.  At least consider this post a free BUMP so someone smarter than me (just about everybody) will chime in and help you!  B)

    Thanks. There will probably be some movement of the diaphragm, but barely perceptible.  Not sure if it can damage midrange diaphragm or not.  And it would require taking the driver apart. I was hoping to avoid that step.

  10. How do I determine polarity in K-61-K squawker if there is no yellow mark and the terminals are of the same size.  There is something that looks like an "R" in white paint or marker by one of the terminals.   This is from Forte II of the 1990 vintage.  I am not changing the driver, just need to hook up Crites crossover and would like to avoid taking the driver apart if possible (there suppose to be a mark on the diaphragm). Thanks

     

    Serge

    post-54141-0-66220000-1415068390_thumb.j

  11. any changes that you might male are simple and reversible so what do you have to be concerned about? I think that the suggestions made by jjptkd made are excellent. Lots of other things that you can do if you are happy with this and would like more. Best regards Moray James.

    My concern is changing the sonic characteristics that I like.  I should've been clearer in my OP:  I can see changing the aging crossover caps np. My question was more about changing the diaphragms and/or drivers and whether anyone regretted and went back to the originals and why.  I've seen the original parts being sold pretty quickly.  So there must be a demand where people are looking to replace damaged parts with originals rather than to mod. Thanks

    • Like 1
  12.  I'd recommend replacing the stock crossovers with Chorus II crossovers and the woofers with the K-42's. The woofers seem to need a little more power than the stock ones but you'll be blown away by the difference this makes.

     

    Interesting.  I’ve never heard of this mod.  Just to clarify: are you suggesting to install Chorus II crossover in Forte II?   Thanks

    • Like 1
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