mrparisi
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Posts posted by mrparisi
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The 1500/a Sherbourn is a 9b Bryston for a lot less in 2001. It has 5 monoblocks in one chasis. This works well for HT and music in general. The BK 202 is a nice amp. BK did a lot of oem amps when in business. There amps are siljy smooth. I read your post. Are u saying I need an active crossover in addition to the crosses in the 30's? My plan was to use the rear outputs on my preamp to drive the lower end of the 30's. In my mind a full signal would reach each set of speaker terminals. I was under the assumption that the signal from each speaker terminal would run through the speaker's crossovers and then to each respective driver? Is this not correct? First time biamping so...
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15 minutes ago, jjptkd said:
Makes sense I would be concerned that changing the balance too much will make the speakers sound off because of the high crossover point at 800hz. I would double check settings on the preamp make sure they're not set to "small" or otherwise out of tune also placement of the speakers can add or take away bass listening position plays a factor you could be seated in a "dead" spot bass wise in relation to the 30's. Another thing to check be concerned about is the cabinets some need to be re-sealed if they have leaky panels that will cut bass output by a lot. Another thing to consider is adding a sub and or a rear sub.
I'm married so there is only one place for the monstrous 30's. Lol. Cabinets look good and they came with Crites ti tweet upgrade. I might try a fabric tweeter to tame the highs a little. Right now I have treble 3db lower on my preamp. I have the original poly diaphragms but they look spent and not the best. I do run two subs. A homebrewed 15" monster and a ksw15 which is surprisingly good. The sub is in the corners. I was hoping to get more midbass from the 30s. I have the amp so not much to lose. I was thinking of trying a k55v driver for the mids too. My Corn 1's with Crite tweeters just sound warmer and nicer to my ears. I also may upgrade the caps in the crossover. I would have bought another set of Corns but I needed a tower speaker to fit the room. Thanks for the suggestions.
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Hi,
I have a Sherbourn 5 channel monoblock amp powering a klf20 center, Corns fronts and KLF-30's for the rear channel. I also am running an Anthem AVM50 preamp. I wanted to run my Sherbourn amp to all my speakers and to the highs of the KLF-30 and then use a BK 202 amp for the low end on the 30's. I can adjust the output of each channel by 24db using my preamp controls so I'm pretty confident that I can tune the speakers to my liking. In a nutshell the Sherbourn would power the highs of the 30's and the BK amp for the lows. The idea is to increase the output to the lower end to wake up the two big 12" drivers. Does this make any sense?
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On 3/14/2023 at 2:30 PM, JohnA said:
I have 4 VMPS Larger Subs (92 dB/w/m) driven by 2 Acurus A-250 amps (300 to 350 wpc) in the corners. That keeps up with my La Scalas and Heresies nicely, without noticable distortion.
The drivers must be mated to the cabinet volume and tuning. Don't substitute other drivers in a completed cabinet. K-33s and K-34s are not great sub drivers. Choose others that are better at it.
Certainly add power.
Get an SPL meter with a known calibration or software (REW?) to set your sub levels and leave them alone. Different recording have different bass levels and that is part of making great music.
I used bass box to do my calculations. You plug in the specs of the driver and it tells you volume for sealed and vented. I didn't build my subs willy nilly. My only mistake isn't choosing more efficient drivers. The Adcom is working nicely but I may try a d powered amp to see how that works. Many tracks have bloated bass or use bass distortion for effect. Other tracks have thin bass so I like to adjust my bass accordingly.
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I have it all dialed in now. Very happy
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11 hours ago, Tom05 said:
Also , with your less than optimal subwoofer capacity , run your speaker’s full range , let them play! (Maybe you are) Augment the bass with your subs , don’t high pass your big Klipsch . This way , you will lose nothing that the big Klipsch can provide , and you will gain everything that your subs can contribute. With this setup,when your subs exhaust their capacity , it will be far less noticeable , and with really good subwoofers maybe not noticeable at all, especially with music.🤓
Yes. I always run my speakers full range (large). The Lascala surprised me with its beautiful bass. Very punch and tight. The sub fills in the lower notes. I turned down by 3db which helped with the sub become more noticeable.
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The D powered amps look nice and have a remote. I mostly stream off my phone and use an app for dsp. I pulled the trigger on the Adcom. I'll report back on any gains.
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10 hours ago, jjptkd said:
Nice job on the subs they look great! Those adcoms are old and not the best option for subs in my opinion look at the pro amps with more power and features for less money new. Add a mini-DSP HD for EQ options or buy an amp with it built in so you can really fine tune things if you want.
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/NX3000--behringer-nx3000-power-amplifier
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/XLS1502--crown-xls-1502-power-amplifier
7 hours ago, Tom05 said:For max output , place both subwoofers in the same corner, this will give you a coupling effect as well as the advantage of the 1/8th space (corner loading ). As the great audio writer and subwoofer guru Tom Nousain once said , (sorry I don’t have the exact quote) Two subwoofers in the same corner will outperform 4 in the round . This is valuable information when trying to keep up with Lascala output.
I'm married. I can't get too crazy. Lol
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On 3/10/2023 at 6:59 AM, Peter P. said:
The problem could be whatever design you used when you built your passive subs. Your calculations could be way off.
I agree with the suggestion to buy pre-built subs and since Klipsch makes brutally efficient speakers, you obviously need subs that can keep up.
Wuzzzer's suggestion of the new Klipsch subs is a good one.
Using amp power to increase your subs' output is expensive and gains will be marginal.
You could run two subs on each system like roninklipsch above which may be necessary with your efficient speakers. Expensive, too.
If you can't find a sub with speaker level inputs for your needs, you could use a "Y" cable to split the input signal to each sub. The input
impedance is high so driving two subs with one line level output shouldn't
Why do you say that gains will be marginal. If my sub amp is putting out 200w and the adcom put out 600w this should suffice. I'll know soon enough.
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I found a ADCOM GFA-555 that put out 600 watts in mono bridge mode into 8ohms. It's only 600 - 700 used which is not too bad. I'm going to give this a try. My subs are like furniture so hate to get rid of them. They play deep and I used bass box when designing them. My only downfall was not choosing more efficient drivers but my subs are musical and can slam hard and shake the house when playing a movie like Star Wars.
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20 hours ago, wuzzzer said:
I think the new Klipsch RP-1600 subwoofer(s) would work great for you.
I'm sure the newer Klipsch subwoofers are good but I had one about 10 years ago and all it did was dance around the floor and vibrate. It wasn't for me but that was a long time ago.
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13 hours ago, roninklipsch said:
I guess there are subs with a remote. Velodyne for example.
I am very happy with the bass. Bass output in general is room dependant to a degree and you need to explore crossover and volume settings to integrate well with your speakers.
All depends on what you would like your end result to be.
You mentioned a remote? Do you want to crank it a bit so you hear it noticeably on every song? If so then that is somewhat opposite of most systems. For example, I want the subs to dissappear. The added base simply melds itself into the main speakers.
I start my set up with Thanks To You by Boz Scaggs. If that sounds perfect than I'm going the right direction. But does rock have less thump than hip hop. Yep. That's just the way is was recorded....
I like the subwoofer to blend but I do want the lower octaves to be present. I want a remote since some tracks have too much or bloated bass while older tracks are thin on bass. I have a bass knob now in my car stereo setup. I'm constantly adjusting it for each track. I can adjust the sub db's with more anthem processor but it's really hard to see with the small led display on the unit and also sitting back 15ft doesn't help the situation. Maybe I just need a good pair of binoculars, lol.
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2 hours ago, roninklipsch said:
Integrating a factory sub which has a ton of engineering behind it is still tricky. So if you built these and are trying to work out power, placement etc. over different genres that could be one heck of a task. My advice is buy a sub that is proven and is known to work well perhaps with Klipsch. It will save you time and maybe money if you are considering amps, drivers etc.
I have Corns and use two REL T9xs subs. They connect on high level output (speaker terminals) but do not create any load. A pretty unique bit on engineering. They are not really expensive if you look at the product line.. The Reference are but you could probably get by with one of any good sub. RELs are quick and musical. I have never had a Klipsch sub, but reviews are good.
And I guess my point is, dialing in a sub is a lot of tweaking even if it's a REL, Klipsch etc. and takes a lot of experimenting. Depending upon the genre and recording quality, you may still get differing results.... Best of luck
Are you happy with the bass? Do you find yourself adjusting output for each track you play? My Rek Strata 3 is hooked up the same way. Is there anyway to control the output with a remote?
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I have Lascala's from 1976 and Cornwall 2's in different settings. I built two really nice subwoofer. One with a highly rated 15" driver and one with a 12" driver. When there is lots of bass in the music they comes alive but on my Anthem avm50 I have to boost the db's on the subwoofer controls. While both subwoofers are amazing and musical the output is not always what I want. I'm using a Parasound HCA-1200 in bridgemode and a st-140 BK monoblock for the other sub. The problem is Klipsch speakers sensitivity which is over 100db while both sub drivers are around 85-86db. I just don't have enough juice to drive them. I also have a Rel Strata 3 which I use in another system which sounds more thumpy then musical. With the active subwoofer I have the option of controlling the output with the onboard amp which puts out more volume then my passive setups. My options are:
1. Replace both drivers with higher sensitivity drivers.
2. Get amps with more power but not sure what that would cost. I would need 400watts. D power would be fine.
3. Keep what I have now and buy a pair of hsu subwoofers for both systems. And yes I do like my music without a sub too but the subwoofer for me adds warms up the musical presentation and just adds what I feel I need for enjoyment. We are all different. Love to hear some opinions or suggestions.
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I live in Ashville, NC but am willing to drive up to 3 hours to pickup these speakers.
Thanks,
Frank
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Hi,
I bought my first pair of Cornwalls in 85. Paid 1k new. Now they are a lot more. Anyway, I have a setup in my bedroom and Livingroom and am thinking of moving around some speakers and even upgrading. In the bedroom I have two Forte 2 speakers as my mains, two Heresy speakers as rear surrounds and a KLF 30 as a center channel.
In my Livingroom I have Cornwalls as my mains, Heresy speakers as surrounds and the other KLF 30 as a center channel. Here is my thinking:
Idea 1: Swap the KLF 30 for the Forte speakers. This would allow the KLF 30 to be my main speakers in the bedroom and the Forte would do duty as the center channel for my bedroom and Livingroom. Not sure I would be gaining much........ I really should A/B each speaker set to see which is smoother up top. Not really worried about the low end since I run a subwoofer.
Idea 2: Sell the Forte's and replace them with Cornwall speakers. So in the bedroom my main speakers would be Cornwalls, KLF 30's for center and Heresy for the surrounds. Or I could sell the KLF 30's and use the Forte as center channels in both systems.
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Not sure. It was so long ago. Like a dummy I got rid of them. Anyway, I was pretty happy with the AL corrsovers. No leaky caps either. They are in very good shape. I took my compressor and blew out all the dust. My Klipschorns are from 1958. They sound wonderful.
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I actually have a pair of high end crossovers that are highly applauded form Meniscus Audio. Anyway, I did an A/B test last night (very unscientific) and I actually enjoyed the AL's slightly better. In all fairness I have lots of settings on my custom made crossovers which is nice to have but all in all the AL crossovers sounded great to me. Klipsch was a smart engineer and he did a great job desgning the Klipschorn. Now I have decide if I want to keep the vintage crossovers.
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Hi,
When I bought my Klipschorns, which are from the 50's, they came with new, updated crossovers. Anyway, I recently bought a pair of original Klipsch AL crossovers. Did I waste my money? Are these even original to Klipschorns? Is there anyway to date them? I only paid 90.00 so.........Thanks
Bi-amping KLF-30's with Pre for Volume Control
in Home Theater
Posted · Edited by mrparisi
Great information. Have you compared the poly with the phenolic vs Klipsch ti? The Crites ti is a little too much more me.