WakeJunkie

Is it as comfortable as one would imagine ?

That is not an option in this case.

Crossover is set at 80Hz. The beanbag is the 8ft diameter beanbag full of shredded memory foam.

If you swap his bar for a pool table you pretty much have my same layout. I'm thinking I may have influenced Duder with that beanbag. I can tell you, you will never regret that one. Get as big of one as you can fit. www.comfysacks.com I have two of the 8Ft sacks in Micro Suede. One in the HT, and one in the living room. This room is great for parties. We have them regularly. The teens love shooting pool and using spotify like a jukebox. Halo and Call of Duty parties rule the nights until football season when all else pauses for the ultimate sports pad ever. You (and your friends) are going to love it for sports. I have had friends get visibly mad when I invite them to watch a big game and they have already committed to watch at somebody else's house.

Thank you for that. According to that calibration chart my response is not that bad for a system with no EQ. This was taken from a distance of 5ft, 36" height with the beanbag right behind it. Numbers shows have already been adjusted according to the calibration chart.

Radio Shack 3302055 Digital SPL Meter. Youthman mentioned the same thing. I found curve corrections for other, but not this one. If somebody knows where to find it I would appreciate it. Youth also suggested I plot it out like this. It is good to see that I am not dealing with a "dead spot", but a null at a specific frequency. I was calling it a dead spot after listening to a song that hit hard in the 55Hz range. Trying to tame a specific null is a lot less overwhelming.

Thanks, that is what I was trying to figure out. I guess laying in the middle of an 8ft bass trap 3ft thick will smooth things right out. That is my personal listening area, but when guest are over they (at least adults) rarely sit there. If I can get rid of these 3 primary nulls I think I will be in great shape until I go the eq route.

Looking at the data peaks, without the nulls the response is pretty flat. This is an assumption as the peaks could be from positive reinforcement from the lack of room treatment just as easily. If the response is this different at different seats I am having a hard time understanding how an eq would fix that. I can see how I could flatten a response in one seat or another, but that could make other areas worse.

I am sure that would do wonders below 20Hz. The two things I think I am going to focus on first: 1. Room Nulls. 2. Is the EPX4000 the weakpoint below 20Hz? (I could possibly swap it, but limited on time.)

Sorry Scrappy, No EQ, Gain adjustments only.

So the nulls are apparent when plotting it all out. looks like I have my work cut out for me. Suggestions on taming nulls welcome. I also see that although the IB goes WAY lower than the Mackie I am nowhere near single digits. I can't help but wonder if the EPX4000 cuts off around 20Hz. I have found no documentation yet to say so, but I can't figure out why it rolls off so fast. Seats are labeled for the Theater Sofa Left, Center (middle of the love seat), Right. Bar is behind the Sofa, 8ft bean bag in the center in front of the sofa. Raw data: http://www.soleproductions.com/Shaun/AVS/FrequencySeats.xlsx

No. Without getting rid of the beanbag or foosball table this is it for seat location.

Looks like I have a room null... Dead center of the Theater seating! Really surprising since I put the subs in the same footprint the old sub sat in. Only difference is 2 ft higher. I have rigid acoustic panel insulation to make bass traps. Suggestions on how to find propper placement and size welcome.

Just to point it out since it has come up so many times. The column is pretty easy to remove. Everything is predrilled for another pair of subs. If I ever decide to add another pair and with help I could swap it all out and have another pair working in about 30 minutes. Honestly, my entire house is vibrating and rattling. 4 of these would be pretty sick. I will spend the next month fixing rattles with a frequency test cd. By the way the box with column weighs well over 250lb.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the complements. I really wish this crew lived close enough to come test it out with me. For every problem there is a solution.... Remove a few screws, and two bolts out of the bottom and you can "extract the core." It weights about 50 lbs. It is almost completely solid wood. I took all the circles I cut out of the speaker holes and cut them with a circle jig and the bandsaw. Felt like I was priming a nuclear device when inserting the column. I don't have the extra "room" to setup an IB Sub but I'm sure we (ahem you) could build something that would easily trump my RSW-15. I am looking forward to it.

Finally got the build completed! The sound is indescribable... I am not sure my house could handle another pair of these beast. Clean low bass and as much as you can handle. I am officially a fan of the IB SUB! Thanks to all that helped with this one.

x2 on the bigger center. You will notice more improvement from that than you will from adding the rear speakers. The RC-3ii was a Huge improvement over the C-2 I had. The jump from that to the RC-7 was just as, if not more significant.

Your Denon 3312 is more than enough to power that system. I have a Denon AVR 791 powering RF-7ii's, RC-7, and 4 RS-35's. I was worried it couldn't handle it, but it handles them very well and I have heard other RF-7iis that are amp powered and I could not tell a difference. I was not doing a side by side, but it will run them louder than I am willing to listen. I have an old cheap Sony AVR running B-2 synergy bookshelves with C-2 and it does fine with them. Your speakers are your weak link. If you want to listen to loud music, Synergy bookshelves are not going to do it like a set of Reference towers. I say you can run your speakers as loud as you want as long as you don't reach the point of distortion. Regarding sensitivity, my RF-3ii's connected in place of the B-2's were significantly louder without changing anything on the AVR.

I have owned the S-1 (predecessor to the S-10) and still have a pair of B-2 (predecessor to the B-20). I can say the B-2 will blow the S-1 out of the water. Not even comparable. I would either go with a rear set to match the side S-2's or go with the B-2's

I just realized I never posted pics of the column pieces. Stain and Varnish are all that are left for these pieces.

Changed the plan a bit on the sub opening. Decided to do custom molding instead. Made these tonight on the tablesaw and router table.

1/4" had the same results as the RCA. The problem is with the line level of the Denon since it is a home audio receiver and output is at -10dB and not at +4dB the EPX4000 expects. I went into my speaker config and turned down all speakers by 5dB and put my sub out at +6. I also set the amp to mono and used a single cable instead of a rca-y splitter. I turned the amp gains all the way up and finally I had sound. The level was actually pretty close to right. Ended up turning the sub out down a couple dB, but I have not dialed it in perfect yet. The specs on the EP and EPX are the same so I don't see any benefit in a swap at this point. looks like this will work for me. I will run some test with the converter box I already have to see if it sounds better with the converter than without (realizing the 20Hz floor exist.) Samson made a s-convert box, but seems to be discontinued. The one I posted before was a direct box and not what I needed. Not sure if I am losing anything in the transition from home to pro audio without a converter. I got most of the hole closed up last night and that helped with the sound quality. I did notice when running the sub out on the Denon set to "LFE+Main" I get a lot of rumble during movies that is distracting and unnatural. Setting it to LFE only cleaned it up, but wasn't sure how to dial that in exactly. Thanks for all the help.

I had a rough weekend after spraining my ankle. I didn't even take a picture of the driver before installing it.....I can't believe I did that. I am finding similar posting about people having to use line level boosters on the EP4000 as well as the EPX. This one is rated to 10Hz, but is only 9v battery or phantom powered. http://www.americanmusical.com/Item--i-SAM-SDP-LIST

I could use some help here. Apparently the EPX4000 requires the level converter. The quote from the product page: "XLR , 1/4'' TRS and RCA input connectors for compatibility with any source" is a bit misleading. I currently have the line level converter Model 555-8585 from MCM custom audio. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/555-8485?utm_expid=8634549-20.QlUUB9VpRc2V-fYTYAiBVg.0&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmelectronics.com%2F Specs list it for 20Hz-20KHz. Which was fine for the Mackie I purchased it for. When testing last night I did noticed it dropped off quickly below 20Hz and that surprised me until I looked up the specs on the converter (which I had not planed on using) Now I need to find a converter that will cover frequencies suitable for an IB sub and don't cost more than the amp. I did find a mod for the CleanBox that claims flat down to 10Hz, but not much to support that claim. http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/cleanbox/cleanbox.htm Like I mentioned, without the converter I got NO input indication on the EPX4000 at all. Even after bumping the sub-out level to +10 on the AVR. Any help appreciated. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the kind words. I am a Computer Engineer and have actually never been paid to build anything before. Youthman is my Best Friend. Driving to his place to working on his HT was a fun weekend for me. I wish I could do it more often. He has paid me back time and again.