WakeJunkie

I would greatly appreciate it. I have emailed them, filled out the contact us form, replied to the email saying my order was going to processing, and emailed again this morning.

Anybody ever tried to contact FI customer service before? Emailed them 6 days ago with no response.

EPX4000 factory fan connector:

EPX4000 confirmed factory fan model: BiSonic BP802524HL-03 Qty=2 This one looks a little tight to get in there, but open end wrench or thin long nose pliers should get it. I will probably just hot glue the nuts on the fan to put it back in.

Sustained, not peak.EPX : EP 1440 : 1250 RMS output at 2 ohms x 2 3000 : 2400 RMS output at 4 ohms Bridged Found it cheaper as well. It also doesn't have dip switch config. Regular labeled switches. That and it has RCA inputs added.

EPX4000 has 2

I went on the safe side. Ordered two of these. NMB Technologies 3110SB-05W-B40-E00 36 CFM 26 db 60 mA 15dB decrease should be significant. I just couldn't talk myself into running less than half CFM into this thing. If it is still to loud I can always swap them out.

I was thinking the same about a pro amp and heat. You can set most pro amps on the asphalt in the summer and they will handle slamming all day. This fan looks pretty good: P14751-ND quieter with slightly higher CFM. http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/3110SB-05W-B20-E00/P14751-ND/2615564 Voltage - Rated 24VDC Size / Dimension Square - 80mm L x 80mm H x 25mm W Air Flow 26.1 CFM (0.739m³/min) - Noise 19 dB(A)

In my room if it pulled from front to back it would cool better..as in most any other installation. Cool room air pulled in and pushed into the cabinet that is vented out the top. VS pulling warm cabinet air in and pushing into the room. I may contact Behringer.

I was talking to Youthman this morning and thought the same. I thought I got one with the fans in backwards.

I considered using these: NMB Technologies FBA08A24L1A 24 CFM 21 db 54 mA That would be basically dead silent. I would use the one Youthman recommended, but the original fans are black and I don't know if a white fan will work. ;-)

The Behringer EPX4000 came in yesterday. Plugged it up and confirmed what most are saying. It is a little loud. Fan swap is a must since the rack is right next to the primary seating area. 3110SB-05W-B40-E00 from Digikey is recommended by several. It does have significantly lower CFM than the original, but higher than the 24CFM some are using. The original Behringer fans in EPX4000 are: Bi-Sonic BP802524HL-03 55 CFM 40.9 db 250 mA Source of above info not from Behringer: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/subwoofer-amps-high-pass-filters/48510-epx4000-fan-mod.html NMB Technologies 3110SB-05W-B40-E00 36 CFM 26 db 60 mA Extended Music at +90dB is expected on a regular basis. 4 Subs expected in the future. Running at 2ohm load. Suggestions for a better fan welcome.

Thanks, I think you would just spend less money making nice places to listen to Music, Movies, and Football. Somebody asked me recently how I learned how to do so much....By being so cheap I had no choice but to do it myself. ;-) I do that with lots of stuff. My Honda Shadow VT1100C Motorcycle. Bought a wrecked one and did the body work and repainted it. $5K bike for under 2k. Bayliner 2050 Wakeboard boat. Engine problems, Rotten floors and ripped seats. Fully restored and customized over a winter. $20k boat ($40k if bought new) for $4K including rebuild. In reality my Dad and Grandfather taught me a lot. When I was 17 my Dad and I cut cedar trees off Grandfathers land he helped me built my fiancé a cedar chest. The only thing is when something breaks I can't just tell my wife we need a new one.

Honestly it is lack of patience.... I don't want the subs to arrive and have to wait on me to build an enclosure. Cutout specs are posted on the site, and with all the reading about people building with them I have not seen anyone comment on them being wrong. FI takes forever to ship. Apparently each sub is built when ordered. Seems crazy, but if you are actually building my sub by hand then by all means....take your time!

Finally had some time after work to get things started. Double checking measurements and started cutting the holes. Using 5 layers of 5/16 Poplar Plywood then adding 1/2" cabinet grade Birch that matches the walls. Once glued up the finished thickness will be 2" If you are wondering why in the world I would do it this way....Well I happen to have about 300 1/4 sheets of poplar plywood already in the shop. I cut the first with the jig saw and then used it as a template for the rest. Plunge cut with the jig saw and did a 10 second rough cut to take out most of the material. Used router with flush trim bit to make all of them exactly the same. Spacing is 1.5" between outer edge of subs and sidewalls. 1.5" between subs and same to the front edge of the opening. I wanted to make the manifold as shallow as possible. These will be used for both the top and bottom of the manifold. I will only be using the two holes closest to the room and partitioning off the back. Sketchup drawings on Page 17. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/143424-ht-upgrade-wet-bar-at-screen-fireplace/page-17#entry1681629

To bad I can't order the IB318's with cones to match the RF-7ii's. Now that would have made for a fine build. Link to the amp: http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/EPX4000.aspx

ORDER HAS BEEN PLACED! FI IB318 - Qty 2 Behringer EPX4000 Looks like it might be about two weeks before the Subs ship.

I'm not familiar with the calibration options built into the subs. Since you don't have the mics that came with it you should be able to re-run audacity and let it set the levels. Check the settings and see if it comes up with -12 or +12 (top or bottom of the range) you should adjust the level on the sub itself until you get within the range Audacity will adjust. I have had good results doing this with my Mackie Sub.

"Auto Range Power Supply" but you got the idea.

Bill is right. Cherry will naturally darken to a very deep red over time. Antique Cherry is very dark. Exposure to light will affect how they age. Eventually the RF-83s should match it. If it were me I would want to put the RF-83's and the pair of beautiful subs in the living room for the eye candy and move that matched set of RF-7ii's to the HT with the RC-64ii, and RS-62iis. But my wife likes subs so it is easy for me to say that.

I was never a fan of black speakers until I saw Youthman's RF-7ii's....oh man. love at first sight, even my wife loved them over the cherry.....then I heard them. Total amazement. Can't wait to add the IB subs, Serious Audio nirvana.

I was worried about the same since my Denon AVR-791 is only 90w/ch. It has no problems handling My RF-7ii's, RC-7, and 4 RS-35's. I expect an amp will give me some improvements in separation and low end, but honestly these speakers are not power hungry and sound fantastic with the Denon.

Cabinet grade 1/2" Birch plywood. Minwax Red Mahogany Stain. Pretreated with Minwax wood conditioner.

I just downloaded components from within sketchup's online library. I wasn't concerned about the sound bouncing back into the box. I was wondering if it would act as a horn and how that would affect things. It may have no effect whatsoever, I have no idea. I was thinking the same thing, this could be good or bad. It we are talking about a couple inches of flare over about a ft. I may just recess the 48"x19" area 2" and square it off so it lines up with the rack. That would leave the manifold edge recessed 2" into the wall instead of the 4-6 originally planned. Looking a bit like a horn was intentional, playing with ideas to make it look nice.