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gadgtfreek

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Posts posted by gadgtfreek

  1. Well, really should be fine with the AVR only. New X4500H is acting up so I enacted a return label, and went ahead and called for the upgrade X6500H japan made model. It has a larger and more robust amp section, so it should be fine. Hopefully it comes working 100%...

    • Like 1
  2. After a couple of years away. 

     

    The system will be a 3.2 setup (have Rythmik 15" subs), with the fronts being RP8000F's and the center being an RP504C. I just bought a Denon X4500H (125w/channel per Denon), and powering 3 speakers it looks like it should be good for 110-115w/speaker looking at 3rd party testing of older 4000 series Denons. I assume these speakers are like the previous models where the AVR will push them well over what they generally need? I don't have space for a large Outlaw or Emo amp in my current stand and don't see a point to the smaller Outlaw 5000 with the X4500H only driving 3 speakers. The 3 Klipsch speakers will be crossed at 80hz and small of course.

     

    Glad to be back over on the Klipsch side.

    • Like 2
  3. 1 minute ago, teaman said:

    I have my Heresy HI-SM set up right now in a 2.2 with a pair of subs and my Panasonic 60 inch plasma and they sound fantastic. I would think any of the Heresy series would work well.

     

     

    Tim

     

     

    Thanks. I have Reference series sound experience, but nothing with the other stuff like the Heresy line. I know the reviews say the Heresy lacks bass, but I would prob cross at 60 or 80 anyways, I have bass covered. They are running about $400 cheaper a pair right now than RF7 II's. The little slanted bass is a cool idea too. 

    • Like 1
  4. So, due to display size and stand size, big center is out. 

     

    I need advice on what Klipsch models would have good dispersion and sound nice in a 2.2 HT (10% 2.2 channel music) at louder volumes. I know RF7-II's are def an option, and then there is Heresy III. The area does have dual 15" high end internet direct subs already. The two Klipsch would set on each side of the display screen (screen is 68" wide), and the subs would be outside the Klipsch so they would not be far apart. Listening range to speaker is about 10feet.

     

    Thanks.

  5.  

    The answer is to set the sub gain a little hot before you run Audyssey, if you want to boost, so you have working room in the level menu. For example, my gains are set where one of my subs is -7.0 and the other is -8.5. Once I apply the 5db boost after Aud, the trim levels in the avr menu are -2 and -3.5.

     

    Not much magic related related to setting up trims to minus number and pre or post boosting of subs.  The sub has a max volume due to driver and design.  As long as the avr/preamp sends an adequate signal, the sub will be fine if the trim is minus or plus.  You can boost before or after autocalibration.  It will just slide where max volume is reached.  If you are boosting a lot with movies, you may need additional wooferage to suit your taste. excessive boosting kills headroom and can lead to amp clipping.  It also make the bass out of proportion to the rest of the sound.

     

    As Scrappydue has said, youthman's problem is to find a new reference level on the avr to work with or move the MLP back.  Youthman is correct, the real number may be 4 or 5 db's above what autocalibration is doing.

     

     As far as plus sub trim, thats not entirely correct. Many AVR's will clip the analog out signal if driven too much. An owner of the Denon 4520 proved as much at AVS, the answer is to ensure that menu level stays around -3db, or not much more poositive, and increase at the amp. If you have sub trim at +5 in the AVR and try and go to reference volume, that voltage on analog sub out can clip on at the avr. Even sub manufacturers recommend boosting the subs a little after auto eq if it sets them too low, and their recommendation is to not overdrive the line voltage and increase the sub gain so trims are nice and negative in the AVR. Crank up later from the AVR menu.

     

    As far as telling him to find a new reference volume, more than one person has said that. I do it every time I auto EQ, and once you figure it out the numbers are just about repeatable after that. He also needsto find a proper sub volume before starting, as has been stated. Audyssey is not voodoo, you just have to follow some simple rules and pay attention to do's and donts.

  6. Scrappy, I think what the main problem is Audyssey is bottoming out.  Adjusting trim will not fix that.  Audyssey may be wanting to make the LaScalas -15db but the max is -12db.

     

     

    You fix it by adjusting the reference volume you use if all else fails. Normal reference volume on a Denon/Marantz is 0.0 db. If your speaker bottoms out at -12, test and see what it outputs at 0.0. Say the SPL meter reports 79db at 0.0 master volume. That means the speaker should be 75db at -4.0 db master volume. Make mental note, start using -4.0 as your "reference" volume, and make sure you increase trims on other speakers so that they are 75db at -4.0 master volume.

     

    In my case the 64ii hits -12. At 0.0 it is 77db, so I use -2.0 as my "reference" volume and adjust other speakers so that they report 75db at -2.0 volume, not 73db, etc...

     

    You need to find at what volume the -12 speaker reports back 75db, and level match all speakers to it at that volume. IF you have more than one, level match all of them to the worst.

  7. Thats not correct procedure for Audyssey. If you adjust the sub after saving Aud's eq, it won't know you adjusted the gain up on the sub. I full agree keeping trim level on the minus side, most say between -3 and +3db level to keep from over driving the output. The answer is to set the sub gain a little hot before you run Audyssey, if you want to boost, so you have working room in the level menu.

     

    For example, my gains are set where one of my subs is -7.0 and the other is -8.5. Once I apply the 5db boost after Aud, the trim levels in the avr menu are -2 and -3.5.

  8.  

    audyssey gets me 90% of the way there, which is perfectly adequate for my needs (and it only took 20 minutes!).

     

    Now that is an understatement to say the least, lol. :)   Getting that last 10% can take hours to days!

     

    A good portion of things you can't fix. I spent two weeks moving crap around and running sweeps with REW. I fixed very little but learned a lot about the room and what moving the speaker does. It's fun up to a point, but then you have to move on and just enjoy your gear.

  9. trying to fix?

     

    room nodes. inconsistent time alignments due to mis-matched reflection points, weird frequency curves, etc.

     

    audyssey gets me 90% of the way there, which is perfectly adequate for my needs (and it only took 20 minutes!).

    I don't disagree, I was just explaining why they "tweak" distance on the subs. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. usually works for people that have multiple subs placed in odd spots.

     

    XT32 is a great set it and forget it plan other than fixing xover points. I also always recommend someone get a decent SPL meter and just use the -30dbfs and -40dbfs tones in spears and munsil disc 2 to double check level.

  10.  

     

    http://batpigworld.com/wp/?page_id=37

    http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey

    you've got to remember that most people prefer more sub-bass than is "correct to spec"

    You also have to realize that it can be easily proven Audyssey sets the subs too low sometimes. I have done it with both a Umik1 and CM140 SPL meter from Cross Spectrum, both I trust more for level setting than the cheap mic that came in the box. Now for distance and the resulting EQ freq response, I have proven it does a great job.

    ive owned three. Onkyo 805 denon 1713 and denon 4520. Every single one has set my sub channel exact same level as everything else.

     

    With my X4000 as a preamp and the outlaw 7500, a Audyssey pro calibrator found them 8db too low (that was the dual VTF15's). With my 4520 as a preamp, I found them around 4db low with the CM140 (dual VTF15's). With the AV7702 preamp I m seeing they need +5db every time I rerun XT32 (dual Rythmiks). So as we all know, what happens at your house doesn't mean it happens at mine.

  11. I don't use Audyssey and was just wondering what everyone was trying to fix, thanks.  Michael is right, the bass boost people use is because of their personal taste of extra bass.  It is not uncommon to MCACC to bump the sub trim up a bit once speakers are set to small in the calibration process, which is usually around 73 db.

    I think at some point, knowing LFE is hard to read, you reach some variance in the mics that come with AVR's/preamps.

     

    With XT32, a 3-6db boost is common.

  12. http://batpigworld.com/wp/?page_id=37

     

    http://batpigworld.com/fadq.html#audyssey

     

    you've got to remember that most people prefer more sub-bass than is "correct to spec"

     

     

    You also have to realize that it can be easily proven Audyssey sets the subs too low sometimes. I have done it with both a Umik1 and CM140 SPL meter from Cross Spectrum, both I trust more for level setting than the cheap mic that came in the box. Now for distance and the resulting EQ freq response, I have proven it does a great job.

  13. They do a sub distance tweak to try and fix a dip audyssey has sometimes at the crossover spot. I tried it and found my subs were set properly by XT32 from the get go, but mine are placed equidistant with everything else. As far as other speakers distance should be pretty accurate, mine always is. You need REW to experiment with this and it works for some, not for others.

     

    With regards to sub level, I usually adjust my sub volumes where auto eq sets them around -8 db. I have found that XT32 sets mine about 5db too low, so once everything is finished and I am changing fronts to small, setting crossovers etc..., I boost sub level from -8db to -3db for example. It is quite common for users to boost sub levels after audyssey 3 to 6 db.

  14. I have been tinkering with a PS4 my uncle gave me. Doesnt pass every spears and munsil test like a Oppo 103D or new $100 Sony, but the one it has issues with probably does not matter.

     

    Hate the controller, and as with the PS3 I was able to see a little banding in a blu-ray scene that iI did not in a 103D. All small stuff, and I think it is a pretty good blu-ray player if you already have it, but the DVD PQ is bad. I usually dont complain about DVD, but its bad. It won't be staying in the main HT and will be getting sold most likely since I do not game. My other complaint, and this was the PS3 too, all apps are RGB output (netflix/amazon) and many tv's and AVR's need separate settings for RGB to be displayed properly, or do not handle it well regardless. Roku is the same way and has been. I mean just output ycbcr or offer a choice...

     

    I was also amazed how noisy the seek is on the PS4 drive.

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  15. I have found mine to be easily repeatable. After running XT32 teh 64ii is bottomed out at -12, and 75db with a pink noise test tone from spears and munsil is -2.0db volume. So I boost the fronts 2db so they match the center's 75db at -2.0 volume and then boost the subs +2db to match the new "reference" volume of -2.0, and then another +5 db. I consistently find the sub channel about -5db low after each run (about 70-71db at reference volume).

     

    My trim levels after XT32 are FL and FR at -7.5db, the Center is -12db and the subs are -2.5db, all matching 75db with a test tone at -2.0 master volume.

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