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Boxoffice Buff

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  1. Hello All:

     

    I was calibrating my room acoustics using Yamaha YPAO (RXV-673). In the user manual, one of the steps to undertake before turning on the YPAO calibration says this...

     

    "Turn on the subwoofer and set the volume to half. If the crossover frequency is adjustable, set it to maximum."

     

    My question is - once the YPAO calibration is completed, do I need to adjust these settings or leave it the way it is recommended here? Before running YPAO, I had manually set the crossover frequency to 80 hz on my sub. Should I leave it at maximum?

     

    Thanks.

    Tejas 

  2. I was wondering if folks could share their experience watching 3D bluray projection in a home theater setup. I was thinking of buying my first 3D bluray but am not sure if it is worth the extra $$. My understanding is that light output degrades in 3D. 

     

    My HT hardware comprises of an Oppo BD 103 player, Panasonic AE-8000 projector, 115" Scope (2:35:1) Elite screen and Klipsch 5.1 HT speakers -R 62s & R-115

  3.  

    JMON,

     

     

    I got Panasonic for the same reasons that you are considering - low ceiling limitation, lens memory and budget ($$). Like you, I have a scope screen. After considerable research, I found this to be my best option and am peace with it. I got a good price break (over the holidays) from B&H Photo which pretty much sealed the deal for me. 

     

     

    Good to hear!  I see B&H and Projector People are currently selling this one for $1699.  Were you able to get a better price?

     

    Got it for $1499 from B&H minus $100 Panasonic mail in rebate.

    • Like 2
  4. I've been looking at projectors and am considering the Panasonic PT-AE8000U, primarily for the lens memory feature that will automatically zoom in and out between 16:9 and 2.35:1 formats.  As my room is limited in height but not width, I can get the largest image size of both formats by purchasing the largest 2:35:1 screen that will fit, but would need a projector with the lens memory feature.  As I understand, the only other projectors that have this feature are quite a bit more in price.  As I expect 4k projectors to eventually come down in price in the coming years, I'd prefer not to spend a lot now on a projector that isn't 4k.

     

    So, for those reasons I'm leaning towards the Panasonic.  I do have some reservations though and thus the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger yet.  I know that this model came out several years ago (2012) so it is older technology than a lot of the newer projectors out there.  I did hear from the Projector People that Panasonic is getting out of HT projectors so there apparently won't be a new model coming out from Panasonic.  I have also never seen the Panasonic picture in person so don't know how it compares to others.  Maybe if I saw one I would be satisfied and could make the decision.  Some friends just bought a new house and installed a Sony VPL-HW40ES and I was extremely impressed with the picture quality.  This projector is comparable in price to the Panasonic.  I've been told by the Projector People that the Panasonic picture isn't quite as sharp and their personal preference was the Sony (which of course is a newer model) -- they do sell both.  This Sony model doesn't come with the lens memory feature and so I'd be sacrificing the largest screen size for movies with the Sony in favor of the (supposedly) better/sharper picture.

     

    Anyway, I know there are several here that own the Panny and wanted to get some thoughts and opinions on the projector along with your thoughts and decision making when electing to go with the Panasonic.  For those owners that have it, how have you liked it and do you have any regrets?

     

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts. :emotion-22:

    JMON,

     

    I got Panasonic for the same reasons that you are considering - low ceiling limitation, lens memory and budget ($$). Like you, I have a scope screen. After considerable research, I found this to be my best option and am peace with it. I got a good price break (over the holidays) from B&H Photo which pretty much sealed the deal for me. 

    • Like 1
  5.  

     

     

    2nd paragraph of that article suggests...

     

     

    Curved screens are popular in home theatres using an anamorphic lens combined with a 2:35:1 or 2.40:1 aspect ratio screen. The curve of the screen reverses the inevitable small amount of pincushion distortion caused by the anamorphic lens. Curved screens can be used without an anamorphic lens to good effect, especially if the projector throw distance is long enough to avoid barrel distortion (the opposite of pincushion) that can be more obvious at short-ish throw distances.

     

     

    Boxoffice Buff,

    • With Blu-ray, you don't need an anamorphic lens on your projector, because the image is still wire sharp (on a 130" wide screen from 12.5 feet) when you merely zoom until a 2.35 (or near it):1 image fills a 2.35:1 screen (which I strongly recommend).  At least one article says that an anamorphic lens can actually reduce resolution a bit.
    • If you do the above, you don't need to consider pincushion distortion.
    • As for curved screens, they can increase the feeling of engulfment in the image (a good thing), especially if the screen is quite large.  As JMON says, though, you should really sit pretty much directly in front of them.  That was also true of screens in commercial theaters showing Todd-AO or Cinerama, and less so with CinemaScope and Panavision, because they used a less extreme curve. 
    • We settled on a 130" wide (not diagonal) 2.35:1 Acoustically Transparent flat screen by Seymour and an older (c.2013) Panasonic projector, and couldn't be happier.  We have presets for 1.85:1, 2.20:1 (Todd-AO and most 70mm aspect ratios), 2.35/2.39:1 (CinemaScope, Panavision 35mm, and many Super 35 ratios) and, thanks to the Smilebox option (disc 2), on the Blu-ray of How The West Was Won, even Cinerama (on the Smile box Blu-ray, that's 2.89:1, and since there is a simulated curve, to get the top side "points" of the image onscreen, the picture cannot fill the 2.35:1 from side to side, but it's still quite immersive, with an incredible amount of non-stereoscopic depth, thanks to the ultra wide angle -- 146 degrees -- Cinerama camera ... do expect to have to re-eq the sound with this movie, however).  The front element of the projector lens is about 23 feet away from the screen.

     

    I was quite happy with my AE8000 and zooming until I purchased the Panamorph UH-480 lens. The picture is sharper and brighter than it was before getting the lens...now this doesn't come without problems though either as to really have the best image with the lens you need to have a curved screen (which I might go to this next winter). One issue we had with zooming was it was impossible to zoom in enough to get the full 195" diagonal scope screen to be filled completely when watching a 2.35:1 movie. With the anamorphic lens i was able to un-zoom most of it (hence what I believe is the reason for more brightness is less zoom).

     

    ellisr63,

     

    The Panamorph lens is nice to have but will probably cost me as much as or more than the projector. My scope screen is 115" so is not as wide as yours. But your point is well taken.

  6.  

     

    2nd paragraph of that article suggests...

     

     

    Curved screens are popular in home theatres using an anamorphic lens combined with a 2:35:1 or 2.40:1 aspect ratio screen. The curve of the screen reverses the inevitable small amount of pincushion distortion caused by the anamorphic lens. Curved screens can be used without an anamorphic lens to good effect, especially if the projector throw distance is long enough to avoid barrel distortion (the opposite of pincushion) that can be more obvious at short-ish throw distances.

     

     

    Boxoffice Buff,

    • With Blu-ray, you don't need an anamorphic lens on your projector, because the image is still wire sharp (on a 130" wide screen from 12.5 feet) when you merely zoom until a 2.35 (or near it):1 image fills a 2.35:1 screen (which I strongly recommend).  At least one article says that an anamorphic lens can actually reduce resolution a bit.
    • If you do the above, you don't need to consider pincushion distortion.
    • As for curved screens, they can increase the feeling of engulfment in the image (a good thing), especially if the screen is quite large.  As JMON says, though, you should really sit pretty much directly in front of them.  That was also true of screens in commercial theaters showing Todd-AO or Cinerama, and less so with CinemaScope and Panavision, because they used a less extreme curve. 
    • We settled on a 130" wide (not diagonal) 2.35:1 Acoustically Transparent flat screen by Seymour and an older (c.2013) Panasonic projector, and couldn't be happier.  We have presets for 1.85:1, 2.20:1 (Todd-AO and most 70mm aspect ratios), 2.35/2.39:1 (CinemaScope, Panavision 35mm, and many Super 35 ratios) and, thanks to the Smilebox option (disc 2), on the Blu-ray of How The West Was Won, even Cinerama (on the Smile box Blu-ray, that's 2.89:1, and since there is a simulated curve, to get the top side "points" of the image onscreen, the picture cannot fill the 2.35:1 from side to side, but it's still quite immersive, with an incredible amount of non-stereoscopic depth, thanks to the ultra wide angle -- 146 degrees -- Cinerama camera ... do expect to have to re-eq the sound with this movie, however).  The front element of the projector lens is about 23 feet away from the screen.

     

    Thank you Garyrc for your insightful commentary.

  7. I have the AE8000u but am unfamilar with curved screens.  How wide is the border of the screen?  2.35:1 vs 2.31:1 isn't very much difference.  I would think if anything extended past the screen, it would get absorbed by the border.

    3 inches on either side.

  8. I am redoing my basement and just installed an in wall 32' Redmere cable from Monoprice. I tested the cable with my existing A/V before the ceiling was drywalled. In addition, i had my HDMI cable run through a concealed 1.5" diameter conduit pipe from the A/V source to the projector so, if cable fails, I can swap it without the need to tear up the ceiling. 

    • Like 3
  9. After doing much research into wide scope projection, I found Panasonic PT-AE 8000U to be the most feasible option for my budget. I am using an Elite Lunette 115"  2.35:1 curved screen. I bought both from B&H Photo Video. Just a week (holiday season) after I bought the projector, B&H dropped the price by $400 for a few days. A quick 2 min phone call and they refunded me this amount. On top of that Panasonic offered me $100 rebate. I have bought all my A/V Entertainment, Photography and computer hardware from B&H Photo Video and have never been disappointed,

    • Like 1
  10. I am remodeling my basement and putting a dedicated home theater. Part of the scope includes tearing down the existing ceiling. Living room (1st floor) and Master Bed (2nd floor) is directly above the finished basement foot print.

     

    i was thinking if it would be a good idea to put sound attenuation blankets in between the basement ceiling joist (to be finished with regular drywall). Does anyone have experience using them? Are they effective in damping sound transmission? I understand that some noise will transmit. My question is - should I bother with them? I am not too hung up and don't want to go overboard in terms of $$$$.

     

    Thanks for you help.  

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