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Posts posted by Maximus89

  1. I downsized to bookshelf speakers and i was dreaming about finding a pair of these rt-10's or rt-12s, but do they really have a high amp failure rate? No repairs available? I bought a 1970 Janis W-1 Subwoofer and the separate Interphase 1 amplifier/crossover just to try at a cheap price. I was shocked to find it sounds very nice and musical. Slot loaded. Blends way better than what i had before. I sometimes can't tell if it's on until i bypass on the amp/crossover and i realize what it's doing. Huge and heavy with a 15'' driver that's supposedly cheap. Looks like a nice piece of furniture. No issues other than some wear and tear. Not going to blow you away for HT, though.


    Amazing how so many modern subs with built in amps fail so quickly. I guess i'll just stick with this Janis sub.

  2. I've got to open up some funds from my hobby spending's this year and also weighing selling the CF-4's but too hard to get upgrade money back in any sale so parting seems more logical for me with minimal losses. 


    I've got some Dean built crossovers with mills resistors and V-Cap ODAM's, looking for around parts cost in return plus your stock CF-4 v.1 crossover sent in return. $820 + your stock CF-4 v.1 crossover in return. Dean built these earlier this year. Outstanding build quality as he always does.  I see he's not doing this kind of work anymore either, so here's a chance you may never get again. The V-Cap ODAMS are now my favorite capacitors after my experience with them. 


    *Will NOT take version 2 or version 3 crossover. Must confirm date of your version 1 serial + i need to look at the values of your crossover parts coming to me in the sale+trade.


    *To specify. The entire crossover with wires and back panel with banana plugs will be swapped so if you have upgraded/replaced banana posts you would like to keep, i'd appreciate it if you put some replacements on first. No need to swap the bi-amp bridges.


    *The price is with the crossover shipped to you on me, your stock crossover shipped to me on you.


    PM for any questions.




  3. How strange. They do retail. I was looking for one of these several years ago, but since it was from 2010 or earlier, the internal dac ddc was limited to 24/96. Zero mention of the internal dac being updated in their brochures and odd how it went away for a while and now back for retail under the same name so if they updated anything internally, someone could buy the one from 2010 for the new price without knowing.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    thanks for the info, was just asking why WV said capacitors dont go bad over time.
    wasnt aware epics used polyprolylene caps, didnt klipsch use the yelllow or blue mylar caps in most speakers of this era?  or were the epics different & used poly caps?  & if so i wonder why that is since all the recent "authorized" caps are mylar & claimed they are the "best" caps & sound better than far more expensive options out there... 
    same applies for the sonicaps crites uses,  certain members on here insist they dont sound better than the stock mylar caps & using them will mess up the whole intended design of the stock crossovers... or something to that effect. 
    in my personal experience, the stock mylar caps can & do go bad, ive replaced the mylar caps in a few different klipsch speakers of this era with poly caps & they all had a noticeable improvement, was night & day difference on my chorus 2 speakers & thats using what are considered budget poly caps. 
    I think the epic cf3 and cf4 are the only ones that used poly caps, at least as far as the non pro or home theater lineup went? Not sure about cf1 and cf2 but I believe they used different drivers so I would guess no poly caps. I need to open up my kv4 and check it too. I've never been happy with the kv4, so I bet it doesn't and needs a recap.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    why/how dont capacitors go bad over time?  thats contrary to anything ive heard or read & also not my experience with some klipsch & other brands of speakers... capacitors definitely can go bad over time & almost guaranteed electrolytic caps will go bad over time.  
    These do have 1 pair electrolytic per board but the others are polypropylene caps and should last. You don't need to change them if you don't want to. Sonicaps will sound better, though, than those stock bennic/dayton audio poly caps.

    The crossovers however are known for loose solder joints. My inductor was completely loose and dangling. So you can also just replace the lytic and make sure all the solder is redone and everything held in place.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

    • Like 1

  6. With the amount of money you’ve dumped into these things you could have bought some new Cornwalls. 
    Haha not even close even with a nice deal from Cory on a b stock. I prefer 2 ways anyway unless its khorns on a long wall.

    Those sure are purdy!

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  7. I think one has screen Protection and other one is naked 
    no the driver is not removed 
    the newly to me CF4 V1 is on the bottom and my CF4 V2 on top 
    I have listen to them side by side and it’s really hard to tell the difference yes there’s tiny difference but it’s hard to 
    My cf3 v1 are naked with white stuff all over it and my cf4 v1 have screen protection. The kv4 has screen protection also. No idea why the cf3s didn't get it

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  8. Yeah I won't diss class D, but all those guys care about are measurements. Some of the best measuring stuff sounded the worst for me. All the ess Sabre dacs I've heard included.
    Some of the worst measuring stuff has an incredible cult following for the musicality but these guys won't give it a chance because of poor measurements. Forget about anything with tubes!
    Cables sounding different? The measurements prove otherwise!

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  9. 2 minutes ago, RandyH said:

     Classe A  .

    It's probably the better musical choice, but with the Texas heat and humidity fast approaching, i just cant' bear the thought of my *** and back sticking to my leather seat when i want to relax and relieve stress. I've decided on the recapped mc250! 

    • Like 1
  10. Yall think damping factor is the most important thing for the CF4 and 3? 

    I sold my p360 w/ 200wpc and high damping factor. Was telling myself too much power i dont need, but those last few nights with a new IC in the set up had me in love with the system. Either way, it sold as i needed extra funds and now i have to find a more budget friendly amp.


    2 amps in consideration. A McIntosh MC250 recapped. 50, some say conservative and more like 75 wpc but very, very low damping factor of 38 at 8ohm and dips into 15 at 3ohm and SNR 90db or a Class A amp with only 20wpc but 120 damping factor, SNR 110db


    Class A negatives:

    -The vintage 90s Class A a few hundred dollars more than the vintage mac and not recapped

    -The Class A consumes 110w more idle, but both same power consumption at rated output. As far as class A goes, it looks like it may not run as hot as typically found in Class A amps which is a huge bonus for me. My p360 was 100w idle and 600 at rated output and it would warm up my room.


    MC250 negatives:

    -low damping factor

    -ugly and rusted and pitted all over. i dont see any way to clean it without sacrificing the black lettering. Could hurt resale value if it doesn't get my drivers moving.

    • Like 1
  11. I currently have 200w on my CF-3's and CF-4s which are awaiting mods. It's way, way more than you need. I plan on downsizing to sub 50 watts, and considering all sorts of options from 3 watts to 50, but with a magical midrange in mind. I feel my RSW15 can fill in anything i may be missing in the low end.

    If you end up in a big room, perfect. If you are in a small apartment, with future plans to move to a medium sized room in a house? I'd say look for a good clean low powered amp with musicality in mind rather than just power and punch. Also i don't know about bluetooth, but i recommend the Denafrips Ares II dac on the used market for near the same price range of that DACMagic.  The Ares II will make your digital music sound analog. It's really an incredible value. Klipsch and R2R Dacs were made for each other.

  12. As someone with only one digital source, and a dac with volume control-albeit old digital-i wonder if a preamp is really that necessary myself? I have over $4k in a preamp suitable enough to not crush and shrink my dac as my previous preamps did. I've had it in the system and already planned to sell only to move to a somewhat cheaper model after with no phono since phono seems to be creating a lot of unnecessary heat i dont need. So the new preamp will be a few years newer and built the same but no wooden cabinet and no phono. Okay. Yet, this morning i decided to try the dac straight to amp for the first time since i purchased the vintage preamp i am using.  I now realize that all that $4k+ got me was a transparent volume control. The vintage overbuilt preamp lets my overbuilt dac shine without hinderance. The dac sounded vastly better without the other preamps i've owned. Here's the thing, my vintage preamp has no remote control. My dac has a remote control. The dac straight to amp sounds indistinguishable from the dac into the preamp which i suppose is a win for the preamp as it's doing it's job.


    The apparent reason i can't use the dac as a volume control(from what i've been told) is because the digital volume is supposed to be bad and ancient and i will reduce too many bits. The brochure(photo posted) says i can reduce to -40 before any degradation of a 24 bit output.  My computer as my only source usually won't allow me to select output bit more than the dac can hanld. An Audio Note 0.1x i had in here wouldn't let me select anything more than 16bit 44k.  The DC-91 actually allows me to select 32bit 48k. Both in my windows settings and in my player software and the music plays fine and the dac locks onto frequency. I'm not hearing a loss of resolution right now with my power amp level low and my dac -24 volume just to get an idea of low level night time listening. I can't say for sure at -34 to -40. It's jut quiet.


    So here's my question with my source being 32 bit and the dac built in digital  volume being set for 24 bit without distortion. Aren't i giving myself even more room to use the volume control without reduction in bits and negating the need for a preamp?


    • Like 1
  13. 39 minutes ago, Shiva said:

    As far as the CF4's and the Focal system playing the same song goes.  Through my Sennheiser HD580's,, the Focal system might have a smidge more clarity,  but the Epics still sound spectacular, 👍 in my humble opinion.   

    Don't know the recording quality either. Two completely different rooms as well. The recording of the cf-4 came out with a lot of sibilance for me while the focal recording was smoother. Again, most likely due to a phone recording. I have always liked Focal, though.

    The CF-4s really do everything so well. I do wish the crossover wasn't as complicated so we could put higher quality inductors and easier to match capacitor values and there were suitable driver replacements so we fans and owners could keep these going for another 30 to 40 years and beyond. Mostly if i have any negatives, it would be 1. They're big ugly coffins. 2. They are too low and the cheesy little feet were terrible. 3. The horn is thin and cheap and I do think the tweeter is a bit too bright/forward on the CF-4, but i solved that with some very expensive Aquaplas applied to my diaphragms. Damped the metal dome and softened and smoothed the sound, but currently testing it on the CF-3s which i already found a bit more balanced than the CF-4 in terms of the horn loudness. Now just waiting eagerly for Dean to finish up my crossovers so i can put it all together! I also applied sound deadner to the horns and woofer baskets and some bracing. 


    • Like 2
  14. Here is what i am considering. http://sparkler-audio.com/portfolio/products_en.html

    There's the little integrated 'Ether' with 7watts. Then there's a physically larger 25wpc stereo amp with volume control and 2 small 25wpc mono amps and a separate preamp offered. The CD and DAC are interesting and i might even want that Tuner just because of how beautiful it is. 

    Kazutoshi Tsukahara used to work with 47 Laboratory. 


    These are all very simple designs and i don't know how they will pair with the not so simple DC-91 dac which i plan to have extensive mods done at a later date. I've also found several preamps i have tried actually hold the DC-91 back and the dac ends up sounding far superior directly to an amp(the c280v matches well but runs too warm to hot and i don't need phono which is adding extra heat), but the DC-91 starts to reduce bits as you go lower in volume... and so an amp with volume directly to the DC-91 for only digital sources might be an option. The negative to that approach is no remote control which i have missed so much since i sold my SS Macs and the Sparkler Audio remotes are so retro and super cool looking.


    I also can't tell you what Class amps they are? Seems something i would know before purchasing. 


    I'm also considering a vintage Mcintosh MC250 w/ 50wpc. I have experience with ss Macs and they ran very cool to the touch. I haven't heard the vintage first solid state amps they built, but apparently they're great.

    • Like 1
  15. Do yall think 7watts to 25 watts solid state is enough for a CF-4?

    I love my vintage Accuphase gear, but it all gets very hot in my small room. Looking to get a barely warm to the touch small amp that has a warm or romantic sound to it. Probably asking a lot since i know low watt class A amps run very hot. I think my p360 runs in class a to a certain point? Also my c280v preamp is class A and gets hot. My DC-91 gets warm on the vent, but i can live with that.


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