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Maximus89

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Posts posted by Maximus89

  1.  
    I'm pretty sure that the YM3436 cannot handle 96 kHz or 192 kHz.
    No need for high resolution. I mentioned that before I knew what the output meant- thinking i could send the signal out to another dac which would do high res while having the signal pass through the dc-91. Im good with Redbook. Theres good measuring cheap delta sigma dsd dacs if I want a 2nd dsd dac. Or rather 3rd as I have a multichannel hdmi dac as well.

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  2. Appreciate it! Well this dac is 30 years old and sounds better than 2 different Audio Note Dacs, a modwright tube modded oppo and an ares ii and several other $1k range dacs i had in here. I was expecting an r2r ladder dac type of sound like the Ares II which i found addictive, but it's a very clean modern sound. Crazy revealing, but a bit lean on the mid bass it's only drawback and bad recordings sound bad unlike through a NOS ladder dac where everything sounds analog and lush imo. They retain their value so i'll likely try a dsd capable NOS r2r DAC next or decide to send it to a tech to recap and modify it-here's a quote containing some of what he'd do

    "I certainly agree with you on the sound of a stock or "conventionally upgraded" Accuphase DC-91. For god knows what reason, other than it was common practice at the time, each of the 32 pcm63 chips has it's own feedback i/v opamp, then into a common buffer, then into a HORRIBLE GIC filter, then output buffer and balanced driver amp. With single common passive i/v resistor per 16 dacs per channel, then my no-feedback voltage gain + line driver stages, plus way larger caps around each of the dacs(over 500 nice Nichicon caps I had to replace with larger nice Nichicon caps, exhausting), the resulting sound is absolutely spectacular, without even changing the ancient YM3436 input receiver or d/f arrangement."

  3. Just now, Edgar said:

     

    Not all standalone DACs have multiple inputs.

     

    As for sonic benefits of the DC-91, if you like its sound quality then you won't be buying a new standalone DAC anyway. I didn't read the article closely, but it appeared to me that the only changes that the DC-91 can make to the digital signal are to change gain and polarity.

    Thanks man. I must have poor reading comprehension since i read that very review before posting and it all went over my head. I can see it if i got myself a 2nd dac for DSD, but that's usually DOP through toslink and spidf. Or let's say i got a tube dac for a different flavor that also played my high res 24/96 and 24/192 music specifically and the DC-91 offers a connection no other modern dac has - ST glass optical-which i am using. In that case, i would get the benefits of the apparently too-expensive-to-produce ST Glass Optical connection benefit with another dac despite it's being output in toslink/spidf? If i did this, the DC-91 would NOT be analog out to anything-the new dac would be analog out to a preamp, correct?

    Final question. The DC-91 can technically be used direct to power amp-wouldn't it benefit the sound outputting to another dac if the volume control is the DC-91?

  4. 2 minutes ago, Edgar said:

    The DC-91 has 13 digital inputs. It can be used as a source selector, so whichever of those 13 inputs you choose is passed-through to the two digital outputs. That way, if you ever get tired of the DC-91 DAC section, you can buy a new standalone DAC and use the DC-91 to select the digital data stream to send to it.

    https://www.stereophile.com/content/accuphase-dp-90-cd-transport-dc-91-da-processor

    Ah so it's a worthless option basically in most cases? The DC-91 won't pass through any of it's sonic benefits to the next dac? The next dac would just have it's own multiple inputs so this would only be cool if some form of the audio signal was passing through the DC-91 improving the quality of the new DAC. 

  5. I have had had this vintage redbook limited resolution DAC for a month now and never questioned what the toslink and spidf OUT of my dac would be used for. In a sterophile review, this was a quote about the OUT: "Two 24-bit digital outputs are also provided to maintain compatibility with the next generation of digital components."

     

    I'm still quite confused on what it is.  
    Everything goes IN to the dac which is analog out to the preamp so i can't come up with any way the dac would output it's digital signal received from a transport. Am i overthinking this? Help me out here

    h.jpg

  6. I looked at your profile and if you are running 4 LSs in a Home Theater I would consider upgrading to a HDMI AVR. Fwiw, I've had my Denon AVR-4311ci for 10 years and let the Sony 4K player decode the higher res material (no Atmos though). {Edit Note: Isn't the Marantz SR7007 a HDMI AVR?}
    I dont have the la scalas anymore. If I did, I would have invested in 3 used decware zbox tube buffers in between the evolve analog outs and the preamp.
    The sr7007 is not currently working but it has alwyas had a bad hdmi board. The hdmi out and thr front hdmi worked. So technically I could have used the hdmi out to a switcher then switcher out to my TV. Preouts and analog outs and built in power amps of the unit stopped working. Never got around to repairing it. Since then I've had multiple mcintosh multichannel analog pres and currently use one from Accuphase. I had been looking for a Conrad Johnson MET1 multichannel tube pre but never came up. They all do good enough job with surround, but not being able to run a room correction does become a pain at times. The center kv4 always too low volume next to the cf4s. Surround takes a back seat to 2ch music so I guess I'm in the very small market those early 2000s era high end multichannel analog units were being built for.

    I had a pathos cinema x in here which was awesome for 2ch in auto bridge and surround with its tube preamp was great, but all of these analog multichannel systems have very basic manual channel trim levels.

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  7. [mention=62903]Maximus89[/mention], how did the Essence Evolve + HDMI switch work... thinking of doing the same.
    Works great. Still using it today. The switcher has only 1 problem with a long hdmi run in where it goes black for a sec and comes back.
    I also have problems with the ps5 blu ray player playing back in surround and the ps5 hbomax app. Could be a ps5 issue. I don't know. I have a separate blu ray player and all surround works on thst including Netflix, prime and vudu or plex, but it doesn't have hbomax or disney+ etc.

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  8. You can remove a back by heating it from the inside with a heat gun. I used some plastic wedge shape tile spacers to slowly separate the back from the cabinet.
    Thanks for the tip. I realllly should get on it once the clamps went on to the speakers I stopped caring how they look as long as the low end is nice and tight. I think I'm waiting for the desire and funds to open up for bracing interior, recap, higher quality internal wire, high quality banana connectors and then new veneer and paint the front baffle. Lots of work

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  9. I'm a believer that cables make a difference. I was a skeptic using all basic stock power cords and amazon basics interconnects and car speaker wire of a thicker gauge. I met a guy who wanted to hear my DAC i had for sale and i got to know him and the topic came up and he didn't push anything on me and even recommended budget cables to me that sounded good but most of his system if high end and he has a lot of very expensive stuff just sitting in his back room. So he let me borrow some Duelund DIY power cables, some high end Shunyata power cables and a few other pricey ones i don't remember. A $4k furutech power conditioner. Some $500+ interconnects. The Shunyata power cables(i tried several) all made a big jump from the standard cables. The interconnects all made an improvement. The Duelund which used silver and some other silver interconnects were all my least favorite because in my system everything i tried with silver is annoyingly sibilant for some reason and it's put me off to silver.  The $4k power conditioner compared to my old home theater panamax power conditioner with several non current limiting outlets? Didn't hear a difference. 
    Whether my system was not resolving enough to hear the difference in power conditioners, i don't know. At the time i had 3 different DACs he let me use with my McIntosh set up, an Audio Note 0.1x, an Audio Note 2.something kit?(both AN Dacs were upgraded/modded), and a ModWright Tube Modded Oppo-105. I've also had my current Accuphase set up with a Denafrips Ares II when i've used some of his interconnects, from AcroLink and another sibilant expensive silver cable and a cheaper blue jeans cable. All made a difference over a standard digital coax-with the blue jeans being good enough of a jump for me.

    I myself was using a printer cable for my USB DAC. I purchased a Supra USB cable based on reviews and it's relatively cheap. It was an obvious jump in clarity. 

    Where i land though, is in the camp of diminishing returns. The jump from basic cables to a good low budget cable is big, the jump from the good low budget cable to $500 cables? Extremely subtle and just not worth it for me. 

    Funny enough i had just spent the past few days looking at different internal speaker wire myself before i saw this topic. Duelund and Audio Note and Jupiter wire. No idea if internal speaker wire makes a difference, but i'm sure it does over the cheap wire a lot of speakers use. 

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  10. Pretty much wrong.  Are you a musician?
    Nope. I know a few. Seems their hearing is fine outside of the upper regions. Craig is a drummer and he has 3 front Jubilee and 2 khorn LF with k402 as surrounds. His room is whisper quiet and you can hear every detail and he had no problem hearing the things I was hearing as we described to each other the sound of each track even though I believe he's mentioned troubling hearing the high frequencies.

    I'm sure its a case by case situation since there are old guys still rocking out. Jagger must have ear drums of steel at nearly 80

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  11. This whole thread is disheartening.. I played music at rock concert volumes with my Chorus II's for quite a few years used to have people over all of the time drinking beers and listening to tunes what great times we had I just hope I didn't do too much damage along the way. My last "big" system was Chorus II with Ultra II subs in stereo and an RSW-15 in the corner for extra kicks it would literally blur your vision there was so much bass.
    You'll be alright man as long as it's comfortable. I doubt any of this is audio related. Band members that play concerts etc lose some hearing in the top end ans temporary ringing is likely but tinnitus and infections are highly likely due to some difficult to find underlying problem as said before.

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  12.  
     --I would suggest a visit to an auto rhino -
    -newest techniques are the use of a sterile wick/sponge that is inserted   in the ear canal along with antibacterial/antibiotic drops -  this treatment  heals a swollen or irritated   ear canal in only a few days  , all it takes is a few minutes in a physician's office to insert the wick , and a prescription for the drops -
     
    That would be amazing. Thanks for the info

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  13. your ears  are definitely  dry  or irritated ,  throw out any Qtips at home and do  not rub the inner canal  ,  this is detrimental +++++problems -
     
    when everything fails ,  mineral oil or virgin Olive oil  everyday  2 x per day  ,  you can use  antibiotics for the ear as well as antibacterials   ,   the oil is a layer of protection  it heals , +  helps to dislodge  particles to slide out -


    I appreciate the tips. Its hard not to pick away at the dry flakes. Ill look into the mineral or olive oil remedy. Ive also came across a product online. Some drops for ear psoriasis the comments all swear by so ill try that too! I'll post the link here if anyone else has the same problem. Hopefully it all works out!

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  14. Ive been away from my system for 6 months and my ears started ringing in that time. Its just a never ending ringing in both ears and random higher pitched pops and sounds. Mostly bothers me in the quiet. YouTube 8 hour sounds help me drown it out but don't actually help me sleep.

    I did have a lot of infections several of which were just awful experiences in both ears several years ago. They came and went for 2 years but its been a few years since the last. I now have psoriasis in my ears and I wonder if thats what started my tinnitus. Obviously I have to go to the ent and im not blaming my Cf4's and even had many extremely loud klipschorn sessions in a small room before the CF4s.

    I just think I'm maybe nearing the end of this journey. This hobby and the music and entertainment has meant the world to me over these past few years but I just cant enjoy anything with this damned ringing and popping and on/off wax blocked ears. Ive got a lot of money into this that I could use elsewhere. I dont even really listen to anything but scores and ambient backgrounds now. I find all I care about anymore is ambient detail retrieval and tight/deep low end at lower volumes. A sweet and smooth bell or something sounds magical to my ears now. Like little magical dust sparkling and floating around my ears. My Accuphase gear with the Cf4 is giving me that + good low end at relatively low volume but is that enough to justify how much I've spent? Idk. I gotta see an ent but everything I read is they can't do anything for me anyway for psoriasis or tinnitus. Continued hearing loss seems inevitable and im just so bummed out right now.

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  15. 3 hours ago, babadono said:

    @Maximus89 I am having a little trouble understanding what you are trying to accomplish. If you are trying to have two different inputs to your RSW-15 at different times you will have to switch cables or get a switch as @CECAA850 has stated. Using a Y adapter or cable at the RSW-15 input from 2 outputs will short the 2 outputs together. DO NOT DO THIS.

    If you are trying to feed the input of the RSW-15 with 2 sources at the same time you will need a MIXER.

    That makes sense. 

    this is what im looking at

    2271905-866fb5e8-accuphase-cx260-26-chan

    except the DAC option board is newer with usb which i use with my PC as a transport. 
    D Output is Subwoofer. Both Balanced and Unbalanced outputs.  I have 5.1 analog outs to the Line 1 Inputs of a multichannel analog HDMI DAC.  Subwoofer gets the LFE signal using the Line 1. While it's not bad for music and i can use the sub with it, the DSD DAC board with USB is of higher quality for 2ch music, but the sub won't work for it even with DSP sub add ons in my foobar2000 settings. 

  16. I've got a similar, slightly different question. I use an RSW-15 which has no hi level inputs. I use an analog multi-channel preamp with a sub out for my multi-channel HDMI DAC. Sub kicks on for movies and tv just fine and i can use it if i use the HDMI DAC for music, but it's just not as musical as the preamps built in option board DSD DAC which is only USB/Toslink/Coaxil inputs. I DO NOT want to lose the .1 LFE of my HDMI Dac for movies, but i want to add sub for 2ch analog simultaneously.

    Can i run a y adapter from the subwoofer and connect one to the LFE sub out of the Pre and the other to a y adapter to the back of the preamp output which will split one to a power amp input and the other will have the subwoofer input. As i understand it, i would get a 3db boost if i use L+R input from the sub, but it is not necessary and i wouldn't need to run 3 long cables(L/R+LFE). Will i cause an issue doing this?

    Thanks

  17. 15 hours ago, sixspeed said:

    I tried some of their older stuff from the 70s, 90s and early 2000s and it was terrible. Mushy, laidback and rolled off. But some people love that mushy warm sound. I just think their new stuff sounds 100x better, it's night and day in my experience. So their sound signature has changed quite a bit -- for the better. If you want that sound tube amps are 100% the way to go with a high quality SS pre.

    This is what i thought of my early 2k's era Mac amp, it sounds exactly like you described and i've since moved to a 1991 built Accuphase P-360 and it's worlds different. I almost pulled the trigger on an MC402 previously. Would that be the way you would describe that amp too? I see most have it as a highly regarded amp in Mac's history. I was also near pulling the trigger on an MC7200 or MC7300, i don't remember but it was a direct coupled amp/no mac autoformer which is supposed to sound different from the laid back rolled off muddy sound. I already owned an MC7106(direct coupled) that can bridge to 320wpc and it's definitely better than the autoformer mac amp im selling, but i passed on the 7300 because i felt it was just my 7106 on roids.  Accuphase build quality blew me away but McIntosh is so easy to service here if there is any issues.

     

    Are there amps you can recommend in the 2-3k range from the last 10-11 years you think sound night and day from their past eras? What makes them different? Quad balanced? 
    Thanks

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  18. 6 minutes ago, Bubo said:

     

    Interesting, any model suggestions ?

    The P-102(1987) was the model i was looking at, same design as my P360(1991) that i decided to go with because i wanted more power to get my CF-4 drivers moving. Pictures don't do it justice. That wood paneling, and the champagne colors with the light hitting on it scream top quality and tank build on the inside. Built to last. There was an older model that you could switch Class A on and off. As you hit 90s model Class A amps, they are all listed on their website under product museum, Class A's are A-*** models. I think the mono A-100 was the first monster, 100watt mono. A-20(1995), A20V(2000) pop up affordable in the 2k range. A-30 and A-35 as well. The 50 or 60 or bigger monos still fetch a pretty penny.  Accuphase mark up in the States and Europe is ridiculous i must say. Really depends on your price range and how comfortable you feel spending on an older amp that are truly built to last, but hard to service if you do have an issue.

  19. On one of the CF4's the back was rattling when hit with heavy bass. I did not remove the backs, but i did pry them apart wide enough to get some clear gorilla glue down in the joint and then clamp it while the glue hardened. Also, I ran a fillet of Gorilla glue around the inside of each side with the back to help solidify things.
    That sounds like an easier solution especially if I decide on adding some bracing anyway if im up for the job

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