Maximus89
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Posts posted by Maximus89
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1 minute ago, jimjimbo said:
After you are done with the tinted Danish Oil, I would certainly recommend the rejuvenating oil, which is clear and works to feed the wood. After a couple of applications over the course of a day or two, I think you will realize the benefit. Get a small can, and apply a light coat every once in a while.
Okay great, I will check out Home Depot this evening. Will I benefit from using a power buffer? I don't know why I am so anxious to use it.
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Also does anyone have recommendations for an edge band veneer(preferably a stick on) that could fit the Chorus II?
I have 1 edge band veneer that is just way too far gone for me to try and fix with wood filler. Looks hideous and needs to be replaced.***snooka, I really hope you don't mind me posting in your thread instead of creating my own. I was hoping we'd both benefit from 1 thread where we can ask all the questions and get the answers we need in 1 place.***
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34 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:
Completely agree. Watco Rejuvenating Oil
Is rejuvenating Oil from Watco necessary for me after recent applications of Watco Danish Oil? It seems like it's more for older furniture. Will it make a difference for me?
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3 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
Wow, that looks like walnut, throw an oil on that and it will look amazing
Yep! I used Watco Danish Oil in Medium Walnut.
Thats only the 2nd coat which I just applied. I'm going to wet sand the next coat and I think I'll stop there.
is there anything I can put on after that I can buffer and make it look beautiful smooth satin?
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1 down. 1 to go. Plus the risers. Don't know if I'm just going to refinish them black and see if I like that, otherwise I'd rather leave them without risers until I can find someone to build custom risers(I hate the risers on these models. Way too cheap 80s furniture looking.)
the wood filler i used was too dry and didn't stay on and it dried really white. I'm hoping a walnut paint marker will paint over it to match.
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very nice!
Hey Snooka, I decided to get all the drivers out now to start sanding tomorrow. My only experience was with a center channel. If you haven't already done it, removing the 15-inch woofer is tricky, it's very heavy. I did it while the speaker was standing, but there's got to be a better way because it almost slipped out of my hands. I imagine it's slightly easier to lay the speaker down to put the woofer in, but i don't know about removing it.
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32 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
To make faded woofers/passive radiators look like new, you can use duplicolor's vinyl and fabric black spray paint from an auto parts store.
Wow, really? Very interesting. Figured anything wet was a no-no.
Do you have photos of your newly reconed passive?
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57 minutes ago, dtr20 said:
I've found the screws for the mid-range drivers at my local ace hardware store. As far as the passive radiators, simply speakers in Tampa Florida or Midwest speakers in Minnesota (?) can recone the passive for you. I'm awaiting both of my passive radiators from Midwest speakers.
Good to know, thank you. I'll check out ACE or Lowes.
Getting the passive reconed will be with different materials? Will it be obvious that the stock will be different looking from the reconed one?
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Sorry to mess with your thread snooka, but I too just got myself some black Chorus II this past Saturday. 2 different cabinets(both black but 1 has an older tag on the back and the other has the newer tags I've seen on KLF series).
The cabinets need to be refinished for now but eventually will need new veneer as many spots are coming off and has lots of broken off veneer. I plan on sanding the black down to the natural wood color. I got a little bit of experience with doing so to my RC-7 that was in really bad shape. Used Medium Walnut Watco Danish Oil and plan to do the same to the Chorus II. (I'll attach photos.) I did a pretty poor job of sanding because I was so afraid of burning through the veneer, so I started with 600 grit and moved to stronger grit. I now know to start at the stronger(going to use 150) and finish with 220 before I do 2-3 coats of Danish Oil and then wet sand on the final coat of Danish Oil with 600 grit. Hopefully, i get most of the black finish out of the oak grain, because I don't like that dark grain look.
Fortunately, i have all working drivers on my pair including Ti diaphragms I've yet to install as I listen to the stock for a week, but I still have a few questions.
1) 1 of my passives was reglued, but still, has a tiny poked hole(and what looks like crayons? Kids? The reglue looks very obvious and ugly. Can this be fixed at all to look a little more professional or is it too late for that? (see attached photos)
2) One of my mid horns is missing 10 of the 12 screws. I went to Home Depot and had no luck finding anywhere near a close match to the original. Do yall have any recommendations on where I can get the closest match or even get the original?
3) The magnets on the cabinets for the grills really bug me the way they are all facing different directions. Is there a way to get them all neat and aligned? If not, can i just use a permanent marker to black them out so they don't stand out so much?
4) The front 15 inch driver seems fragile to touch so it scares me to do any cleaning. They're very dusty up close. Can I take a soft bristle duster attachment on my vacuum to it?
Spoiler
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2 hours ago, jjptkd said:
I ran a RC-7 L C R for quite awhile and it sounded great. If you're near this deal I'd grab it quick before its gone..
Won't match unfortunately.
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He originally had the RC-7 at $250 days after I paid $300 for a really beat up cabinet(but I still felt it was a good deal..well as long as it was working like he said it would) that ended up having a blown woofer and spent another $167 for 2 new woofers because I couldn't find another original k-1083, + hours of sanding and trying to refinish. I had already accepted a partial refund for the blown woofer the moment I saw this RC-7 in Austin for $250.
My RC-7 didn't come out too good, but it's passable. The newer woofers look beautiful on it. I wish I had the original woofers though, I would buy his RC-7 and RS-7's and use the 2 RC-7's as mains in a smaller room with those RS-7s as surrounds and wait to find another deal on another RC-7 for an RC-7 front 3 in a bedroom. I wonder how that would sound. Hmm.
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Looks like it says k-23. Still, don't see any stamped serials anywhere though and it doesn't say serial anywhere on the tags which is odd or maybe I just can't see it.
Oh well, still super stoked! Today was a good day.
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Can anyone tell from the photo if the driver and passive are original?
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I just opened up my Fortes to put in the ti Diaphragms in. I had done it before but I took them out to hear stock again and I previously never even bothered to look inside and so I took my flashlight and looked inside the cabinet and I found the tags glued to the inside! 1987! Now to see if they are matching serials but for that I want to look for a stamp on the cabinet. Very happy right now!
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17 minutes ago, Freshman said:
Maximus89 - Have you already listed your original K-1083-SV woofer? I am in need of a replacement woofer for my RF-3 II. PM me if you haven't put it up on eBay yet.
Woofer was destroyed in the middle of the night by my 1 year old puppy.
2PM sent
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LOL. The Houston market. I hate it.
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4 hours ago, pat_in_dfw said:
Let me know if you're interested in the ones I have.
I'll let you know Pat, I have seen your pair on here and on craigslist. Walnut? If so, that's my fave
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7 minutes ago, Chris A said:
If you get interference with your TV due to the lower magnetic shielding of your new woofers and the close proximity to your TV, then consider using this to further shield your woofers internally around their periphery on their rear sides. It may not stop the magnetic interference, but it will likely reduce it significantly:
https://www.amazon.com/MuMETAL-Magnetic-Shielding-Thick-Sheet/dp/B017ABLYRO
Chris
Is that still a thing with newer LED TVs?
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1 minute ago, dtr20 said:
I guess it depends on the size and weight of your tv.
It's a 55in that's 48.5 lbs
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11 minutes ago, Tasdom said:
Actually, the horizontal centers were designed to have tvs placed on them. A towel, or cloth mat to protect it from scratching and you're good to go;
Good to know!
Next up! To sell the original K-1083-SV woofer for some funds and then see if I can get a hold of DeanG for his RC-7 crossover upgrade if he is still around anywhere.
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Finally ready to give it a test but no idea where to place it. TV on top of it would be a big no-no I assume?
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Maybe a stupid question, but my new woofers just arrived and as I'm excitedly installing I realize I can't get them going just yet as the terminals are too small for the new woofer.
Please don't tell me my only option is to solder. I don't know how and I don't want to spend another penny on this speaker which has been a money pit for me ever since I got screwed with purchasing it from eBay with a blown woofer and having to sand and refinish the cabinet only to still have all the deep gouges show through.
Tell me this is an easy fix I can do right now and not have to wait another week for something more to ship.
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18 minutes ago, Srinath said:
However will it match you other component, and will it match the pair. That's the bigger concern
I ordered a matching pair because I didn't want two mismatching woofers with plans to put the functioning original K-1083 up on eBay to recoup some of my funds for the new woofers.
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Just received a message in response to my same question.
They said it is the lack of magnetic shielding that makes it so much lighter and that it is my only option to repairing the RC-7 and it should, in their opinion, work beautifully as they have compared and tested.
I suppose my only option is to test them. They sure do look more aesthetically pleasing compared to the older darker cerametallic and black dust cap!
Chorus II project
in General Klipsch Info
Posted
Before:
Congrats on the cabinet looking nicer snooka and on your new crossovers.
I finished one and about to start the other. I really regret not just buying another wood filler to properly fill in the broken off veneer areas. I have 1 full edge band that needs to be replaced and I'll probably go with band-it. I also need to find 10 of the screws that go in the mid horn.
Also need to do the rejuvenating oil, but I'll do that next time I take everything out to do the passive mod of adding 2.5oz and getting Titanium mid Diaphragms and Crites crossovers.
After I sand all the black finish out of the next cabinet and put 1 coat of Danish Oil tonight, I'll move on to the risers. Not sure what to do with them. Getting the black out of the top section is really hard for some reason even with 100 grit sandpaper. I want them to look presentable for now til I can get someone to build custom risers. Wanted to go with all of it sanded raw so I could do the same walnut danish oil, bc that black strip of the riser gives it an outdated look imo.