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Maximus89

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Posts posted by Maximus89

  1. Not being particularly savvy in regards to doing glue jobs on wood. I might first, if you have large enough wood clamps, clamp the crap out of the problem area and play music and see if its 100% a glue seal issue, if that would even work of course.  The next thing I might try is to remove the front baffle, which is easier as its screwed on as you have read.  See if you can access the problem area that way and lay some glue down in the joint.   If that doesn't work, plan C, remove the back and go from there I guess.  My two cents.
    Great idea!

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  2. Dang, now you know. These guys probably know the answers.
    Someone?
    @wvu80 gave me a lot of help with his project. Although we're still unsure of the rear baffle. My guess is I have to break it off with a rubber mallet and reglue, but the thought of breaking/cracking the baffle sucks. Ill have to take my time knocking it from the inside all around the edges.

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  3. So that issue with that right speaker on my new to me CF-4 v.1, it's actually a baffle issue. I literally just found it. Was able to get some time to play some bass heavy music(been using the sub below 80hz after initial set up).  The rear baffle at the center behind the tweeter area is flexing a lot and chuffing/air leak. The left slightly moves as well, but the right speaker clearly isn't suppose to move like that and it's causing the sound that was bothering me.  
    Was the rear baffle glued on? It's the front baffle that's removable via screws right? How do i remove the rear baffle to glue with TiteBond II  and clamp it correctly? Assuming i have to remove the entire rear baffle and not just squeeze some glue inside the area and clamp as the rest of the baffle seems fine.  
     

  4. Ha. Why didn't i ever think of that. Water in the tub, enough to submerge these huge grills, add some black dye.  Nice.  This grill cloth always bugged me. I assumed it was made purposely grayish in color like the original horn was also dark gray, but i prefer it pure black. I'll have to give that a go one of these days.
    Doh. Ive never used dye before but pretty sure cant use the tub. Difficult to work with a large grill. Could take the cloth off and do it in a stainless steel sink or plastic container and then reglue the fabric onto the grill mold, but hard get it perfectly tight like factory

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  5. Ha. Why didn't i ever think of that. Water in the tub, enough to submerge these huge grills, add some black dye.  Nice.  This grill cloth always bugged me. I assumed it was made purposely grayish in color like the original horn was also dark gray, but i prefer it pure black. I'll have to give that a go one of these days.

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  6. Looks clean! Is it still sort of a faded grayish black instead of black-black?


    BTW everyone. My issue is gone. As far as I can tell after I swapped with my cf3 horns and cds, the distortion is gone. It could have been the rubber seal and a vibration at certain frequencies? I got that sorted for the cf3 but I havent really given critical listening to the cf3 with it and probably won't. Big reflective living room. Probably wouldn't hear it anyway.
    Thanks to all for suggestions.

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  7. And guessing when you say dust covers, you are not talking the dust caps on woofer?
    Did I say dust covers? Likely meant dust caps.

    Ok. So I was starting to suspect its been the tweeter. So I removed the horn. What was protruding in the throat was the rubber seal. When you twist the CD in place, the seal squeezes out. I tried to flatten it as much as possible. I noticed this on the left and also on my cf3s, but none were as bad as the right speaker. Could have been the cause of something or just a coincidence it was the right speaker.

    What I decided to do was just completely swap the horns and cds from my cf3s into the cf4 and vice versa. My cf3 horns had some clear silicone caulk to damp the horn. It was cheap and free as I had the materials. Never knew if it did any difference as I did them at once. Just knocked on my cf4 horn and compared and there was a difference but nothing major. The horn itself is still too thin.

    Will give a listen and give impressions when I get a chance. Hopefully that solves the issue and I don't mind if the cf3s left or right channel has a tiny bit of distortion now as they're just for movies and most of the track is via center channel anyway

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  8. 10 minutes ago, billybob said:

    Water, lightly with cotton cloth/washcloth.

    Vinegar lightly on chalky surrounds.

    Maybe lightly with alcohol on glue substance after trying light water, white vinegar. Go slow.

    Are you certain a surround was reglued?

     

     

     

    Thanks. I'll try just warm water on a microfiber first and then try white vinegar. 
    The top right surround as pictured above when i spoke of it, has those white hardened pieced in between the plastic and rubber all around. My assumption is that it's dried glue. It is white but also clear and has a sheen. The rubber surround itself doesn't look any different from the others or my CF-3s.

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  9. BTW, does anyone know what i can use to carefully clean the dust caps? I'd imagine i'd have to apply some decent amount of pressure. My guess is the person who re-glued the dust caps, centered the dust caps with sticky gluey fingers, but it dried like it as dripping in places as well.   Rubbing alcohol? Just a micro fiber with hot water? Suggestions?

  10. Not necessary. I feel lucky to be the first caller, ahead of several other local guys who told me they called right after and were too late.  Upon closer listening, i feel the distortion could be coming from the right tweeter. There is an odd piece of something sticking out in front of the path of the throat.  My next step is to take it out, unscrew and inspect, reconnect and try again, if not, then its' the tweeter and i'll just use the one from my CF-3 and be done with it and start enjoying. :)  If the noise persists with CF-3s compression driver, might have to look at the capacitors. 

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  11. 1200, no audition, legit speaker store at local flea market. Good guys there. Following covid protocol so the flea markets been closed off to public and only appointment, wife at risk, so couldn't go inside. I just inspected outdoors before loading.
    I'm not upset. Its likely something minor. Sucks the dust caps were reglued sloppily. Sucks the rubber surround was reglued sloppily. However I do know a local repair guy and im sure he can redo them all neatly and correctly. My first thought was some air seeping through the dust cap or rubber surround on top right woofer.

    Of course if all 4 dust caps and 1 rubber surround were reglued and this poorly, it means someone pushed these speakers really hard and aslo did the re glue job themselves.

    All good. Im still happy :)

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  12. Have you shown pictures here besides the tweeter(s) of the woofer dustcaps and glue?
     
    [mention=62903]Maximus89[/mention]
     
     
    I'm not sure i understand. I edited my previous post where I forgot to add the photos of the rubber surround glue

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  13. Is this happening even with lighter bass from rock music and such? Or only with rap or EDM type stuff?
    Mostly on vocals and most obvious when watching TV last night. The scratchy sound is very faint and alwyas coming from the right speaker

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  14. So speaking of distortion on the right speaker and re glued dust caps. The top right woofer also looks like it has hardened glue near the rubber surround as pictured. My guess is this top woofer is the cause of the tiny distortion I faintly hear. Nothijg drastic but once I heard it, cant be unheard and I keep looking for it instead of enjoying the music.

     

    I thought it was dust in there but its hardened material with a sheen so its definetly glue.

     

    There's a local repair guy ive taken my la scala woofers to before. Ill probably have to talk to him about this woofer first. Maybe reglue all of it neatly and professionally and then ask him to reglue all new dust caps? Unless there's a way to clean them of this ugly residue on all of them? Are the dust caps crucial? Can any dome shaped dust cap of same material be used? Does klipsch have these dust caps in parts?

     

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  15. 8 minutes ago, Shiva said:

    The white residue looks strange. Old glue, mold perhaps. I hope neither.     From what I've read, as you move a speaker further from the floor, it decreases the bass output. So, if the bass seems weak to you to you now, that might not be a good idea.  Play some bass heavy music and see how they handle it. 

    Yeah, that white stuff is odd. I was just telling @wvu80how i may have heard some distortion on my right speaker.  I mentioned how it looks like maybe all 4 dustcaps were re-glued-one being obvious with overglue-the others with dried residue on the dustcaps- so potentially a dustcap issue-air getting through? Luckily, i have the luxury of swapping my CF-3 tweeter with the CF-4 to see if that was the cause. 

    As far as low end, i put some 1" cork pads under the fronts to tilt them up toward me. Sound is better, but the back is still leaning on the floor. I won't do anything to lift them too high. My though it to do the isolation feet as suggested with figuring out how to make the fronts adjustable for tilting the speaker back, or if i can find a subwoofer isolation pad/platform that supports the weight of the CF-4s. My preference would be this, so the speakers could look floating like al the new risers in Klipsch lineup. Could still use cork pads to tilt. Haven't found any that support more than 60lbs.

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  16. 3 minutes ago, Micklipsch said:

    Not to mention more uniform sound, the subs will take much of that low end stress work off those precious stock K30-KNs. 

    Very true. I'll give bi amp'ing a shot first just to try it once, but ultimately probably best to let the rsw-15 do the hard work and it does it well! 

    I've never bi amp'ed other than on a Marantz AVR which used the back surround channels.  Since i'll be using two different solid state Mac amps, would they both go into my preamp's L/R via a rca Y-Adapter? 

  17. Is this white stuff all over the tweeter normal?

     

    Also all 4 of the dust caps have some kind of dried residue on them. Could it be glue from messy work re gluing all the dust caps? I hope these are the original v. 1 woofers.  Any tips on something safe to use to remove the residue?

     

    V.1 date. Longer ports. Clear internal wiring. I guess I'm gonna have to open 'er up tomorrow. Gives me a chance to rotate the woofers anyway.

     

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  18. Interesting. Just got my CF-4's playing. Will postpone restoration until i figure out exactly what to do.  Don't have the feet so it could be that, and i don't want to put them on the makeshift feet i had the CF-3s on because these are just so much bigger and nicer to risk a damaging fall, but as of right now, the CF-3s felt more balanced(Note i had a bass issue with them too(but now using a different pre and amp), but its more apparent with these. The CF-4 horn is there, huge soundstage, very detailed. The imbalance is the mid bass and low end. Feels too low compared to the horn.
    I'll get them off the ground and tilted toward me like the CF-3s were to get a better feel.  I've got a McIntosh MC202 with 200wpc on them right now.  Don't think the bridged 320wpc MC7106 would be better than the MC202. I can feel the potential though.  I think i'm ultimately just going to have to integrate my RSW-15 again. 

    I have never bi amp'd my cf-3s.. maybe i should try so with these. 200wpc to the LF, and 100wpc to the HF? Does anyone know if i'll run into any issues with 2 different amps?

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