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wvu80

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wvu80 last won the day on July 15 2019

wvu80 had the most liked content!

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About wvu80

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    Wife---Son----Me

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Virginia, US
  • My System
    Klipsch Epic CF-4, Version 1 1994
    Klipsch RP-600M
    Klipsch RF-83, RC-64 III, RS-62
    Amps: Marantz 6011. Emotiva UMC-200 pre-pro, Emotiva XPA-5 gen 1

    Mancave: Emotiva UMC-200 pre/pro w/Emotiva XPA-5 gen1 for CF-4. Pair of Umax 15 and Inuke 3000dsp, DIY Reference 15 sealed sub
    Living Room: Marantz SR6011 RF-83 and RC-64 with RS-62 surround speakers

    DIY: Overnight Sensations, Fusion 10 Pure, Dayton Audio Reference 15 sub w/Yung 500 watt plate amp

    Former: Klipschorn 1979 (sold 2017), La Scala 1978 (sold 2016) RW-12d (given to son 2018) Traded RC-64 for RC-64 III 2018

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  1. Hi Lee, welcome to the Klipsch Forums! Unfortunately I don't own a single Khorn, never have. I track Khorn prices, including singles so that is probably the reference to the Khorn. It was for the prices I have. Here is the link to the spreadsheet. Feel free to download it, it's a great research tool. -Dave Klipsch Heritage used prices ver 2020-05.xlsx
  2. wvu80

    Covid19 redux

    Just because a person is smart in something doesn't mean he's stupid in everything else. I believe in scientific consensus as it is obvious even all the smart guys don't agree with everything. At some point you have to trust someone.
  3. The bigger the better. The RP-600C and RP-600M will make an outstanding L/C/R, much better then the 500 series, which will make good surround speakers. I own the 600M. I love the sound. Center is an Usher MTM with 7" woofers.
  4. If a Klipsch speaker like my RP-600M's are rated for 100 watts per channel, they don't "use" that much power, that is how much power they can handle before distortion kicks in. I am being very general here because Klipsch engineers say that whatever they are rated for they can usually handle double that. So if I am listening to my 100 watt speakers on my 100 watt AVR at conversational levels they might be drawing 10 watts. If I turn it up REALLY loud to 80 db they might be drawing 30 watts continuous. The AVR keeps a reserve so the music can have dynamics. Still the speakers can handle it. Your speakers and mine might draw as much wattage as a light bulb, not much power at all.
  5. wvu80

    Covid19 redux

    Local update: I was out at the local Kroger grocery store this morning, in Ohio. Nobody wore gloves but for the first time in my experience I bet 90% wore masks. They were everywhere. That's a big change from a couple of months ago where maybe 10% wore masks.
  6. I like my center channel to have drivers in that 6 to 7 centimeter range. I think voices sound best that way. The RP-600C looks like the best choice of the ones you listed. In terms of the watts, the speakers do not really care about exactly matching those numbers. Any modern AVR with 80 wpc ore more will do a good job.
  7. The spreadsheet says Belles in Good condition average $1916. You can't go wrong at $950. If they're real. Only two pictures of one speaker and one is a s/n. Do your due diligence. I would be wanting a pic of the other s/n, and more pictures of the enclosure of both speakers.
  8. There aren't any and the K-63 itself is un-obtanium. I haven't seen one for sale in years. There are still a couple of alternatives. An excellent replacement is the Electrovoice EV DH1506. You can find these on the used market from time-to-time. They are screw-in but are much heavier than the K-63 and some mods are needed inside the enclosure. They are easy to do, it just takes a little time. These are usually about $150 pair shipped. Note: I just checked Ebay and it seems I am out of touch with prices. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=dh+1506&_sacat=0 B&C makes an excellent sounding CD that sounds like the K-63. You can buy these new from PE. You will need the adaptor plate, since this is a bolt-on type and you need a screw-on type. https://www.parts-express.com/bc-de250-8-1-polyimide-horn-driver-8-ohm-2-3-bolt--294-605 https://www.parts-express.com/eminence-s2b-a-aluminum-1-3-8-18-tpi-screw-on-to-2-3-bolt-horn-adapter--290-561 Here, some dummy (me) compared them. It looks like all my pictures in that article have been deleted. Note: The Denovo DNA-360 referred to in the article is a re-badged B&C DE250. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1527228-seos-12-vs-klipsch-horn-i-did-bad-thing.html
  9. My only point is that there are three basic kinds of glue we commonly use on wood enclosures: white glue, yellow glue and polyurethane. In sealing an enclosure like the CF-4, any of these will work. The only advantage I've seen to the poly glue is if you are going for an air-tight seal,t hen the expanding properties can be of some use. But I assure you if you use each of the other wood glues, they will flow into any fissures and seal it just as tight. My preference is for the yellow glue like Titebond II because it is the most viscous of yellow/white and gives me more time to work with my project if I screw up. Hah! Not "if", but "when." 🤣
  10. The Titebond II (yellow) will work fine and gives you more time to line things up. I use it in all my DIY speaker projects and I used it with my CF-4. The two basic wood glues are white (inside) and yellow (inside/outside). FYI ALL the glues mentioned are stronger than the wood to which they are bonding. You guys are talking about the expensive Polyurethane Gorilla Glue, the brown expanding type. $20 for an 18 oz bottle. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gorilla-Original-18-fl-oz-Polyurethane-Brown-Multipurpose-Adhesive/1101533
  11. I know it takes some time, but please take the time to read the entire thread. The answers you seek are in there. To get access to the back, remove the drivers from the front. You will find six screws holding the front motorboard on. Pop off the plugs and use a long Phillips head screwdriver to get in there. The screws are long but they'll come right out. The pic on the right shows the extra brace I put in. It has larger blocks than the OEM braces.
  12. I'm not a crossover guy but when I saw the orientation of your inductors I wondered if they are proper, based on this chart:
  13. Thanks, Jim. Maybe I stumbled into something in which I should have kept my mouth shut. My apologies if I was out of line.
  14. How marvelously coincidental.......If you'd like to flame directly, please, be my guest. Maybe I missed something Jim but I didn't attribute ANY of this thread to be directed at anyone in particular, much less you personally. I took it as a rhetorical discussion in general. +++ I've been a flipper in the past by definition, meaning buy low sell high, but I've never bought a speaker just to flip it. My re-sales have been WAF directed and I've taken the profits from one Klipsch sale to buy other Klipsch speakers. That was never my intention, that's just how it turned out.
  15. I did miss that and @triceratops nailed it. ONLY the v3 CF-3 or CF-4 came with black and red wires coming off the crossover. You don't even need to check port sizes, color of the mid-horn or s/n. Black and red wires, version 3 from 1996.
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