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About dtr20

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  • Birthday 05/21/1985

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  1. $500-1000 depending on location, etc
  2. ok my bad, I'm off by one
  3. Lets hit your different points. Yes, the forte II and forte III use different horns, just like the forte I and the forte II. Just like the chorus I and the chorus II.But the chorus I and the forte I use the same horns and the forte II and the chorus II use the same horns. So naturally the mindset would be that the chorus III and the forte III would use the same horns. I understand the crossovers are different. Someone mentioned earlier in this thread, i think page 1 or early page 2, that I can make changes with resistors (I think) on the crossovers to bump up the output volume of the A55G. I may try this at some point, but I am not good at circuit board soldering, so I'll have to wait for this whole world self quarantine period to be over to have a buddy do stuff like that to my crossovers. As far as the A55G midrange drivers goes? I already had a set. I wanted to play with them. I have a pair of older khorns and belles which are drop in replacement drivers for them, as well as cornwall I verticals speakers that are mid project and super heresies that are also mid project. So yes, these A55G can go into a number of speakers. I've read that the A55G drivers were great drop-in replacements to the KLF20/30 speakers (i also have a pair of KLF30s). Since the forte III midrange adapter has a threaded mount, identical to the KLF30 horn, I thought trying the A55G driver would be a natural progression for the experiment. I emailed Bob Crites to make sure there wouldn't be a problem with the chorus II crossover with the A55G drivers. He said it was fine to drop them right in without modifying them (from a damaging point of view). I am not a super technical person when it comes to this stuff. I can't read response curves, etc. I do, however, know what sounds good. My favorite thing to do in this hobby is to A+B compare stuff., whether that is 2 different sets of speakers to see how they differ, or two almost identical speakers with a single change to see how they differ. For example, i replaced one khorn midrange driver with the A55g driver and left the other stock. At low volumes, I preferred the stock driver because the A55G was laid back compared to stock. At high volumes, I greatly preferred the A55G because it was laid back and less fatiguing. As far as EQing, i just suck at it. Every time I try to set an EQ to taste, I realize flat sounds a ton better. Bottom line, this the Technical/Modifications section where people come to play and test. There are 2 types of Klipsch people. 1, if it isn't stock, its not Klipsch. 2, I love Klipsch, but sometimes we can tweak, swap, etc to make a great product even better. I am in the latter part usually and that is what this section of the forum is mostly dedicated to.
  4. Because this is part of the fun. I went with the mentality that the forte and chorus shared the same horns, then the forte II and the chorus II shared the same horns. So naturally, the forte III and the chorus III would likely share the same horns.
  5. Tonight we used the same 2 songs, "Never Too Late" by Three Days Grace and "Snuff" by Slipknot. We tested stock drivers with a stock horn compared to a forte III horn. We had similar results, forte III horn had more detail, she noticed a more distinct backup vocal in part of the Three Days Grace song compared to the stock horn. I feel like a lot of the issue is with the stock horn is the fact that it's so big which I feel like adds resonance and extra vibrations. The best way I can describe the difference between the horns is like comparing woofers or rather sealed vs ported cabinets. A good sealed subwoofer will typically have good tight bass, and a ported sub will typically have more exaggerated bass. The forte III horn has tighter sound compared to the chorus II horn.
  6. If its anything like the KLF series (which I believe it is), remove the rear baffle using a heat gun to loosen the glue if need be. Scrape all of the all glue off, again use a heat gun if necessary. Use liquid nail in the seam for adhesive. Try to get some excess adhesive to ooze out into the cabinet so you can run your finger along the edges of the seam from the inside to get a nice seal. There should be no need for screws, just make sure the panel is clamped down well. I used kettle bell weights across the panel. I suggest doing the front and rear at the same time. If the back is loose, the front probably is or will be. When letting the liquid nail set, I used 2x4s that were shorter than the cabinet and laid the cabinet on it to put even pressure across the rear baffle, and laid 2x4s across the motorboard in a similar manner, then stacked the kettle bell weights on the 2x4s. Let the liquid nail set for 7 days (that is the proper cure time).
  7. @MechEngVic Here is my latest graph. I find this stuff really interesting, but I really don't understand it at all until someone like you breaks it down. Thank you My thread can be seen here
  8. To elaborate on last nights testing. We A+B both speakers, both had A55G drivers, but one was the stock horn with an adapter to accept the A55G driver and the other was the forte III horn with block spacers that I made to fit in the Chorus II midrange opening. My wife is really good at hearing differences, so I always have her check these things out with me, plus I need someone to operate the A=B switch for me to listen. We listened to 2 songs, both mellow songs by hard rock bands. Can't remember the Three Days Grace song, and then Snuff by Slipknot. The vocals were a lot more crisp and detailed with the forte III horn. With the stock Chorus II horn, things sounded more echoey (if thats a word). In the middle of Snuff, on the forete III horn, my wife was so surprised that she discovered there was another person doing backup vocals. We have never noticed this before, we thought it was only Corey Taylor singing that part. Once she heard that, she could then pick it out with the stock horn, but not as easily, she only noticed it because she was really looking for it. I think I'm going to try to do a tournament competition with these horn/driver combinations and detail our findings. Last night was stock horn vs forte III horn with A55G drivers. Next will be the same horns, but with stock drivers. I will then put the 2 winners from each against each other and the 2 losers against each other to really rank them. We will continue to use the same songs.
  9. But is doesn't have the mumps!
  10. The forte III horn is a direct fit for the klf20/30. I bought these horns over a year ago. There was a small period of time when klipsch let people order forte III parts without a serial number. Can't remember how much it cost Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  11. The forte III horn has a screw on for the driver. It's basically the same horn that's in the klf 20/30 with mumps. This is why the A55G driver is perfect for it. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  12. We critically listened to the chorus II speakers tonight with the A55G drivers. We both preferred the the speaker with the forte III horn. It was a lot more detailed and crisper compared to the stock horn. Again, same drivers. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  13. I didn't listen to all of them critically with music, just did the measurements. I only had so much time to play today. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  14. ok, so I took time today to do more measuring. I used the same speaker cabinet each time, which means same crossover, woofer, and tweeter. I did 4 measurements. 1. Stock Chorus II 2. Stock Chorus II with an adapter for A55G driverr 3. Chorus II with Forte III horn with stock driver 4. Chorus II with Forte III horn with A55g driver I saved the measurements on the computer if anyone has any request to the other tabs, I can bring it up and post it. Just walk me through the settings. Please tell me your thoughts on the measurements with the different drivers/horns. Thanks
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