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Dave A

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Dave A last won the day on December 12 2018

Dave A had the most liked content!

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About Dave A

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  • Interests
    Lapidary, 3D MCAD design, welding, CNC machining and of course music to work by. Occasional tweeter and speaker designs. Finding fixing and selling old Klipsch speakers primarily pro stuff.
  • My System
    Currently it is.
    Super MWM Bi-amped with Xilica XP3060 and dual Crown XLI800's
    Subject to change tomorrow.

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  1. Well I have to admit you are right on the money. I think you are serious about what you are doing but I don't take what you do seriously. I was just curious to see what you were coming up with now since it is never dull or un-entertaining. I still look in every now and then to see your Audioasylum system and whats new. Looking at your "see my system" under your handle yesterday reminded me I had not looked for a while.
  2. Dave A


    His price is in line. You can't get the OEM passives unless someone has parted out an old speaker and these things are rare. Klipsch does make a replacement now for these but they have rubber surrounds and not accordian's like the originals. You might not like the price but try and find one and it is a sellers market on this.
  3. HA I just assumed La Scalas didn't I! Picture embarrassed smiley face here.
  4. So you have a tweeter that is overpowering your speaker for what ever reason and need to add an L-Pad to tame it down. The problem is you have a nice cabinet and don't want to hurt the value by drilling holes that can be seen. In addition to that you also have no riser that can hide the L-Pad so here is a suggested workaround. In this exploded view the large piece of wood is the bottom of your cabinet. From the top down you have the L-Pad, your mounting block with a counter bored hole in it to allow for the L-Pad nut. your L-Pad nut which will fasten the L-Pad to the block, foam tape to create a leak free buzz free mounting to the cabinet base which is the last piece. Not shown are the four screws that would fasten the L-Pad block to the cabinet base using the four small corner holes. Bottom view showing hole in cabinet bottom and L-Pad stem for adjusting. Now how to adjust. You have to do some measuring and order the right length stem on the L-Pad to match the various pieces of wood but make sure the L-Pad stem does not extend past the bottom of the cabinet. As you can see by tilting the speaker over you can access the L-Pad stem and use the slot on the top to adjust with a flat end screw driver. If you decide to sell the speaker in the future and want to remove and save your modification parts remove the L-Pad, flip your mounting block over and screw the wood top side without the foam tape to the inside bottom of the cabinet and make sure to move it over an inch or so to make sure the hole in the bottom of the cabinet is covered over. You can easily fill a half inch hole with wood putty with the backing in place and then finish and you will not harm the value of the cabinet in any way.
  5. Pre nut job 1957 days though. SF is today what she warned about and I am certain would not live there now. You do know your suggested use was really rather sick don't you?
  6. Nah, Ann was not the blue hair San Fransisco type. Funny you should mention her though in that context and quite revealing.
  7. Jeffrey, You have not mentioned your A-7's for some time now. How are they doing and what have you tried on those lately?
  8. You can but I would not advise doing so. K-55-M has trouble replacing a diaphragm, K-55-V does not. Soldered lug K-55-M not so on K-55-V but no resultant improvement of sound like there is with the K-55-V soldered lug. K-55-M has an annoying habit of having the plastic back side become a little loose which will cause a buzz you will catch grief over when trying to figure out what is wrong and the K-55-V does not. I have given away or sold real cheap the K-55-M's I had because they are not as good for various reasons mentioned. When I was fixing up La Scalas I used parts just as though I were going to keep them for myself so the K-55-M's went bye bye. One other thing here. Talking with Bob Crite's son one day about new diaphragms. I had a set of K-55-V's that ohmed right but did not sound right. Apparently they have run across this too and the only cure is new diaphragms. Now I am a cheapskate and the idea I would have to spend half of the cost of new drivers to just replace diaphragms bothered me but I went ahead and did it. Solved the problem just fine, saved money and good to go for another 30 years I guess. You have recapped those old toasted capacitors, right? Also look into putting a mid brace in there between the dog house and sides to kill the cabinet resonance.
  9. The LMAHL's DE10 has a 107db efficiency and the KLF20 has 100db. As mentioned in the "Read This Before Install" flyer in the box you might need to add an L-Pad to make things more balanced. I run across the same thing when tinkering with making wood horns with 1.4" and 2" throat drivers much more efficient than my 904 bass bin test bed and have to use an L-Pad to balance things out. One size can fit all but might need help to do so. There is an L-Pad recommendation on the flyer and a wiring diagram also if you need it.
  10. You seem to be on the cutting edge of things so have you tried any of these out yet? http://madscientist-audio.com/magictubes.html http://madscientist-audio.com/tubetoppers.html http://madscientist-audio.com/blackdiscusnanodonut.html
  11. You are a smart guy Pete. I never realized that you could use different color wire ties to function just like the color code on resistors. So what is the typical life span of a circuit in your care before they die?
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