M_Klipsches

Good idea. But it’s already almost too big. I’m hesitant to make it even larger.

I almost used the nailer on the top but I wanted to make sure there was a good seal on the top, plus I worried about a brad going askew andcompromising the seal. I figured the screws would pull it down more tightly. When I built the T18 I used scrap wood in the center and crosspieces to apply clamping force in the center then clamped the sides as well. No nail or screw holes at all. If that makes sense? The TT size didn’t allow me to do that. Although, I just realized how I could have accomplished that. Oh well maybe I’ll use that next time.

First, maybe second coat. Only about a hundred more to go. I had to take liberties with the screw holes. Every bit of wood filler I had was dried up and barely useful. I couldn’t justify going out just to buy it, so you work with what ya got. I tried the wood glue/sanding dust as filler it’s ok but not subtle. I hope to dial it in as I go. Either that, or call it “character”.

30” X 30” 22” Yes Dayton, DCS255-4. I’m going to use a Yung SD300 plate amp.

Thank ya.He’d make a good retriever and likely ok with gunfire, nothing rattles him too much. Poodles are actually of German origin, but the National Dog of France. I guess the Germans owe them that much. That Rubio Monocoat looks interesting, I’ll consider it for my next project.

I’m ready to begin the finish. As I replied to Jason str, I’m going with Tung Oil, I think it has turned out pretty good so far. Don’t get me wrong, my Jr. High shop teacher would point out where the top is misaligned a bit ( it slipped a little when I clamped it). He’d also say I need to sand it more, but he always said that. I think his logic was, if I was still sanding, I didn’t have time to start another project. Good guy though, I learned a lot of useful stuff. it is good sized for sure. Not as big as the La Scalas, but on edge, it’s about shoulder high to a Standard Poodle. Standard Poodle shown for comparison.

Yes Baltic Birch. I don’t mind the maintenance of oil. And as it darkens over time it will match the La Scalas. I think I’ve decided Tung Oil, as it is what I’ve got on the shelf, and with Apocalypse quarantine being what it is...

The Duratex is a bit too “industrial” If I wind up using it as a table. Poly is super durable, spill & drop stuff on it, no worries. My go to is usually tung oil, which would match the La Scalas, which started out as Raw Birch. So it’s easy, inexpensive, matches, and I like the look. When I did the T18 I used lacquer, I’d never used it before. What a great material, I was really pleased with the results. I was inspired by the Cherry Sunburst Les Paul guitars. I’d really like to do this one in a similar theme, except in a “Silverburst”. The downside is with the size of the TT, the instrument lacquer would be a bit pricey. Still a bit more trimming & sanding before I need to decide. Thank you for your ideas, appreciate the input. MK

This is how I spent most of my “social distancing” today. I decided to “finish” the TT before installing the driver, as much as I wanted to test it out. It just made more sense, it’s already heavy enough. Plus I won’t have to seal it and protect the driver from dust & debris, or heaven forbid, install it twice. Just sanded it a bit and filled screw holes today. Still quite a ways to go. If anyone cares to chime in on finish choices, feel free.

Well done.

The die is cast, fingers crossed, knocked on wood & incantation performed. The top is in place, clamped, glued & screwed. All the panels aligned with the pilot holes save one which was just a tiny bit off. Now the waiting...

I love my La Scalas. When I first heard a pair nearly forty years ago I was blown away by their clarity, and presence. I’d never heard anything like it. Back in those days I’d never even heard of a “subwoofer”, if they even existed at all. Music was just different back then. A few years back, I finally bought a pair of 1980 La Scalas. They were everything I remembered, from the long, long, ago. Except it’s not 1982 anymore. We hear and expect music to sound differently these days. You’ll need a subwoofer. I first started hearing about “Tuba” subs on the forum here. I bought plans and built a T18 which sounded really good, it blended seamlessly with the LS. However, if you like it loud, you’ll probably want more. The little T18 is now in the family room, where it sounds amazing for its size, and really pisses off one of the dogs, especially during Marvel movies. I’ve been building a Table Tuba for the last few weeks, and have been documenting the progress with a build thread, if you want to check it out. Good luck with whichever direction you go.

All the side panels are installed. I just need to set the braces (just test fit in the pics). It is looking mostly square, and so far I’ve managed to drive only one brad through an outer side panel, a little putty will hide that sin. I’m hoping it will not only sound good but look good as well. Especially if it winds up being used as a table. If it winds up in location B, it will still be obvious and will need to be presentable. I should/could have a working unit by the end of the weekend.

Thank ya. I should have it assembled by the end of the weekend. It’s the second BFM sub design I’ve built. I’ve enjoyed building both, except for the damn braces.

Panels #10, #11 & #12 are in place, along with the damn braces. It has been a real p.i.t.a. getting the last panel and braces in place & aligned. There is only one more side panel to go. I’ll be glad to get it set, but I am dreading the final bracing. Cabinet Makers have my respect, it ain’t an easy gig.

Thanks to all, for the positive feedback. Panel Nine is in, and seems straight & square. I’m feeling good about it so far. The completed size is becoming apparent, it’s going to make a large table, for sure. It still may wind up on its edge, against a wall. Either way it’s a few days down the road, before that becomes an issue.

I’ve managed to “convince” panel #7 to join panel 8. I’ve even moved along to panel #9, and the braces for it. Next up, the outer panels, and yay, even more braces. No stress there, except for keeping things straight & square.

I’m not afraid of the glue, that’s for sure. It covers a multitude of sins. Even so, I’m going to try to straighten it before I glue the next panel in place. I think it will be easier in the long run. It’s been clamped for over 24 hours. I’ll check it tomorrow to see if I’ve made a difference & go from there.

Definitely more “gaps” with panel #7. I’ve clamped that edge between a couple of scraps and hoping for the best. I’m considering using a steam iron to warm that edge a little and make things a little more pliable.

It’s a bit further along. I’m trying to resolve a fairly significant warp in panel #7. One thing about the Table Tuba, even with the 10” driver it seems that there’s a bit more room than the T18. So hopefully that install will be easier.

Well that seems to be all I’ve got. I’ll add more later. One thing I did remember from the last build was to check the seams for gaps. The plans say to check for leaks, after it’s built. How do you fix it after it’s built? I used a flashlight and a dark room to check for gaps. So far so good. I’ll add more later.

Progressing slowly, but here are a few pics. I remembered my least favorite part is installing the braces. Especially since I’m building a wide version and there are two braces per panel. 😬

21” panels, 22” assembled width. The plans describe that as “optimal” using the 10”. It would actually be a bit better fit in my “B” choice location, if I’d gone a little smaller.

Things are progressing More slowly than I’d planned. Panel #2 has been installed. Panel #3 has been trimmed, and I’ve managed to cut the hole for the Dayton DCS 255-4, without screwing it up. Still need to test for baffle interference, and run the break in routine. Getting there.