pioneerhip
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Posts posted by pioneerhip
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On 9/18/2019 at 10:37 AM, moray james said:
no problem with this as a plan. What is it you are attempting to achieve? Personally I like birch without any artificial colour. Multiple diluted coats of boiled linseed oil then once you have achieved the colour you like top coat with a water based urethane. The birch will continue over the years to darken and will develop a fine looking patina. If you choose this method you do not need to use a sealer coat.
I like the look of these. What happens to the color the more coats of linseed oil you apply? Gets darker, more orange, etc? -
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Just got them! Thanks again!
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$350 to get them sold
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Dang it. Not tall enough to fit. GLWTS
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Measurements on the pair?
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I wasn't sure what it was supposed to be. I assumed 8 ohm [emoji854]I was under the impression that the K33 would measure closer to a 4-ohm driver... then, mating it into the horn makes it an effective 8 ohm driver.
So, if you get something in the high 3's or low 4's....don't fret. Perhaps someone more technical can fill in those details.
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You should be able to google the model number if it isn't on the back. Range should be close. If it's an 8 ohm and read 8.2-7.8 would be a good reading.
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Take your meter and turn it to ohms. Put the black lead from the meter on the negative of the speaker and the red on the positive. The reading is what the speakers are measuring.
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3 hours ago, moray james said:
Another possible option considering your limited experience along with your desire to achieve a specific look is that of a plastic laminate. All you have to do is to choose a laminate cut the pieces oversized and apply with a water based latex contact I recommend LePages Press Tite Green. You will need a router with a professional carbide trim bit with bearings. You will also need to practice on trial applications and trimming do not experiment/learn on your speakers! The tremendous up side is that once you have successfully applied your laminate you are done. You will have the exact look you desired and you will not have to learn how to finish. You will need to research the availability of these laminates in you local. I hope this offers you some fresh food for thought. Best of luck what ever you choose to do and please do post your results others will be very much interested in your outcome.
This is something I was unaware of. I'll look into it. as much as I want to be a DIY'er of sorts ultimately I only want to have to do the finish once. So with that said I am going to look into both options. Take it to a cabinet maker and have them add the veneer as well as the plastic laminate. The satisfaction of doing it myself would be so rewarding, but taking it to someone for the veneer would feel like a smart investment guaranteeing a successful outcome. I'll post pics for sure when I have made a decision. Thanks to everyone for the tips so far!
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10 minutes ago, Khornukopia said:
The DE-120 might not bolt up to your existing horn, so you will want the CT-120 combo from Crites.
If you are serious about getting an active crossover, you should do that (active) first.
Well I may have jumped the gun on buying the crossovers already. I wasn't really thinking active crossovers when I purchased the Cornscalas, but knew I like the ALK crossover. Deposit sent to Al at ALk so no turning back there. Can the CT125 be adjusted in the active crossover to fix its problems? Is that why you say do it first?
I have been reading up on the Xilica and it seems like a route I'll look into after the ALK crossovers.
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22 minutes ago, moray james said:
well you are not going to be able to make your birch Cornwall's match the visual look of your Focal loudspeakers no matter how you stain them. Most times stains simply look wrong and it is my opinion that if you do not like the colour and or look of the veneer that you have then find a veneer that you do like. Staining veneer can work but it is very easy to get wrong, walnut stain on birch or red oak is a perfect example of stain gone very wrong and unfortunately you see these everywhere.
So Veneer make more sense if I am going for a certain look then, or accept the fact that staining them is really going to only do what the wood will allow. Any recommendations on purchasing veneer? Have a place you like to purchase veneer from?
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I really like the color of my Focals. I have some stain that almost matches the color. I have decided to go with black on the front of them though. Here is apic of the Focals and a pic with the grills (no cloth) sat on the front lip of the Cornscalas.
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On 9/16/2019 at 10:40 AM, moray james said:
dynamat is not the material you want to be using on a MDF or Baltic ply cabinet like this. Open cell foam can be very reflective at some frequencies remember you are concerned with the upper response of the woofer. HD Fiberglass such as from Owens Corning will exhibit some of the very best absorption that you will find below 100Hz. On the cheap flexie style drop ceiling acoustic tiles are available in 2ft. square and 2x4ft. panels typically 5/8" - 3/4" thick, they can be found inexpensively, you can staple them in place with the perforated plastic layer toward the panel. The material which Klipsch use is I believe either a cotton or a Kapok short fiber material and has been sourced by forum members and is effective and lasts a long time it is safer to breath than Fiberglas. You can search the archives to find info on this.
I assume these will work fine? We have some that are discolored and have been replaced at work. If these will work do I just cover the insides of each box completely?
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On 9/17/2019 at 10:03 AM, avguytx said:
@pioneerhip Maybe you mentioned it and I didn't see it but what are the cabinets made from? Baltic Birch or something else? If Baltic Birch, that's a very tough wood to stain if you're not experienced in doing so. It's a very picky wood that doesn't always look great and someone else on here stained some speakers they built using BB and, to me, it looks awful. Me personally, and from experience, I would veneer over the BB with something that's more forgiving for staining. I built some Belle clones out of BB and veneered them using ribbon Mahogany. I believe the build link is in my signature.
Would it hurt anything to give the staining a go and then veneer over if it looks horrible?
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Anyone have a prefered place to buy the 120, or is there a better option before I purchase the 120 that someone might suggest?
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Yes unfinished Birch. I'll be honest I have zero experience in veneer or staining. The last thing I want to do is mess them up. I might take them to someone to do the finish.
Talking active crossovers--- Is the Xilica the way to go to tri amp these, or is there a more affordable route you can go?
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How do you like the change from ct125 and original horn?Mine are not really finished too nice, I wanted to hear how a Cornscala sounded, so I bought from a forum member who had one of the original pair that Bob Crites made in the early days. The only mod's that have been performed to date is that I purchased Dave A's machined aluminium horn lense with the B&C DE-120 driver.
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Will do! Would love to see pics of yours as I still haven't decided on stain or veneer.I have the same Cornscala Type A's, if you perform the recommended mod's per the forum members, please provide feedback on the improvements.
Thanks,
Bernard
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Anything special for the internal damping? Dynamat or just some of the cheaper foam panels like these:
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Good Idea. I do need to add the internal bracing. ALK crossovers are ordered. What about adding something to help with standing waves inside the box? Any benefit to that, or a waste of time since the box is ported?
Cornscala Type A Upgrade path recommendations
in Technical/Restorations
Posted
Oh yea I forgot initially was going to try the ALK first before getting yours in Dean. I decided to go all in so yep shootout coming!
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