AlmostGod
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Posts posted by AlmostGod
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Alright. The crossovers are here, but my Lf driver's sensitivity is way to low. What drivers do you recommend to replace the original K43 with? I've an Eminence LAB15, but the sensitivity is just terrible.
Any tips?
Cheers!
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I will let you guys know!
Can someone explain why the K-55's are in series? That's bad for impedance... Why did they do this?
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23 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
You can get a used Active Xover pretty cheap and use some cheap class D chip amps from China on all the channels rather than commit to passives that were designed for commercial use instead of home.
Most of the time, you will be using 1/4 Watt per channel and never exceed 10 W in the house. I had a big stack of MWM stuff in my house. Also Khorns for 30 years. Indoors is low watts on a horn!!!
Yeah but I like to be able to switch between them and my Tannoy studio monitors, and i have never used an active crossover, maybe I'll use them in the future tho. I'll install those Gauss drivers and try them!
Edit: Is it difficult to use an active crossover?
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20 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
They were the original drivers for the original MCM1900's. PWK and Gary Gillum were both impress that the drivers had output to 15,000 hz. so the original was a 2-way.
For home use, I would say the Gauss is better and simpler. It was an incredible driver and still is if the diaphragms are good. The Quad K-55's are overkill for home use and require Super Tweeters. You can't go wrong with either, but 2 way's are easier to deal with.
Alright. I'm having the crossover built by a friend. He's making them with the schematics posted else on the forums, is there a good filter for three way available?
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3 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
Late to the party, I know, but the Gauss drivers will go out to 15 Khz., according to an interview I had with Gary Gillum, Klipch's retired/former Chief Engineer and co-patent holder with PWK. so You don't need a tweeter, unless you want wider dispersion.
Are the Gauss better than the quadruple K-55's? I have both the Gauss and 8 of the K-55's
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Okay, I haven't tried acetone since you guys think it's a bad idea.
How do I clean them? They're up on the second floor I don't want to haul them down stairs. I don't have a terrace, I can open a lot of windows in my appartement and get some fans to help the acetone fumes.
It's a lot of dirt, dust, spilled drinks etc etc. Any advice? I tried the strongest degreaser that's available for home use but when it dries up it's just as dirty (Or so it seems).
Help would be appreciated!
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18 hours ago, Dave A said:
Acetone + room + vapors = boom.
Yeah I'll get some fans and open up the windows, that'll work?
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14 hours ago, Dave A said:
That will work and take them down to bare fiberglass. repainting is easy but you are going to regret not taking care of cosmetics before sitting them up two flights of steps. Is there some reason you can't just buff with scotchbrite pads and paint over what is there?
They are already upstairs. I have an appartement and I'm not allowed to keep them in the public places. I'll use acetone on them I think!
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I'm having a hard time thoroughly cleaning that fiberglass, dirt stays in there, I'd really love to pressure wash them but I'm not going to take them down 2 floors to clean. Anyone got any tips?
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Hi everyone, does it matter how I connect those four drivers to the horn? I saw two of them were connected parallel. Does it matter which ones?
Also, why are two of them connected parralel
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On 7/12/2021 at 2:57 PM, mark1101 said:
My 4 MWM-S Cabinets are fiberglass with the aluminum edge banding. Hard to find the singles like this any longer.
Yeah I have those as well, my corners also look different, thinking they're not aluminum, but something more rigid?
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I believe my set is covered in a layer of fiberglass, is this something anyone has heard of before?
Thinking it's going to be difficult if possible to remove the pain without destroying the fiber glass... Best to leave it or paint over it at most?
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On 7/10/2021 at 9:31 PM, dwilawyer said:
As Bruce @Marvel said, it's all good, you asked for a drink from the knowledge fountain and they hit you with a fire hose, one of the good things about this Forum. Plus you got individual private, focused help. Sometimes it's just overwhelming and hard to keep up.
Nice to see people posting examples of what you can end up with.
Also, like with all things audio, there are many paths that you can take on this, and it's up to you to decide what is best for your situation/budget.
Excited for you on your project.
I'm excited too! Want to work on it tomorrow and Tuesday, will make some before and after pics of the cleaning and take pics of the drivers and such.
Thanks!
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Hi everyone,
I'd like to apologize if my reactions have made me look ungrateful for all the time and thought that was put in your answers. I'm simply very enthousiastic and in way over my head.I've asked a bunch of questions regarding drivers, crossovers and appearance, I'm doing this step by step and if I can start with small cosmetic stuff which won't break the bank I'll happily do that. But my main priority is getting them working. I have a friend who's making a crossover for me so I got that covered, I'm in process of cleaning all the cabinets and "testing" the drivers (I just connect speaker wire to them to see if they work). Once the crossover is done I can start the actual testing.
And I'm in the market for a HF driver with horn so I was asking questions about that as well.I sincerely apologize if I came across as ungrateful, I'm listening to all the advice and I'm using as much of the info given to be as possible.
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1 hour ago, dwilawyer said:
They came in 3 different options: No strips, strips, and fiberglass protection. I listed them up above. There was corner reinforcement/protection with one of those options.
Back then there was a few items on the standard menu, as well as many items off the menu. The big sound guys could ask for what they wanted in terms of hardware, handles, connectors, crossovers and a lot of other things.
The manifold tweeter design was done by Paul Klipsch himself, there is some great history around all of that.
Hoping anyone on the forum has a pair of either I can buy. Were they any good? The MTM and MMTM? And are they worth it or is it easier/better buying a different pair?
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8 hours ago, Dave A said:
Exactly right. I used brown tinted Duratex on my Super MWM bin and like it a lot. This was on raw wood though and I would stay with black on yours. Wipe it down with a moist rag, let it dry and roll away.
I really like the original birch look! But will use my money on getting them working. Going to see if i can save the aluminum strips, since taking them off is going to be difficult since a lot of the screws have been ruined already. Were the aluminum strips standard? Or do they also came without the strips?
Would LOVE an original MMTM or MTM as tweeter, hoping I can get the tweeters from DaveA, but thinking shipping and customs is going to make it very, very expensive..
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8 minutes ago, Gnote said:
I'm getting ready to do a pair of MWM bins with Duratex , I believe many here have used it with good results .
Everyone claims that it is very easy to apply with a roller .
Can I just use duratex over it? I love the birch look but that's a LOT of work. And I'm not even sure how long I can stay in this big apartment haha.
Let's get everything working first. After that I can think about the looks!
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23 hours ago, Dave A said:
I have never heard of rat fur covered ones nor seen them.
Edit:
Mine are think painted black, can I restore them or is this very difficult for a newbie to do?
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Alright, a small update.
I've started to take the cabinets apart (Just the drivers and the grips), I've so far tested the two 10" Eminence Beta drivers which both work, and I've tested four of the K-55 midranges which also all four work.
I've purchased a active crossover with the whole setup but it turned out it wasn't an active crossover so he offered to take it back. I still might go the traditional passive crossover way. I read that the cheaper active crossovers will have static playing through them, and I don't want/can't spend a huge amount on an active crossover and another amplifier and cables etc before hearing the setup.
If anybody has any info on the rat fur/carpeting situation I'd really like to hear about it!
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On 7/2/2021 at 6:35 AM, Islander said:
Two things. First, that carpet stuff is generally known by roadies as "rat fur". I don't know how its presence affects the price of the speakers.
Second, those aluminum edges are anodized, but the anodizing is very thin, so you have to be careful not to use anything that could scratch or scrape them, or their finish will be ruined. Other members can suggest how to clean them without causing any problems.
I think the anodized effect is already ruined, they're very used looking! I like the rat fur, thinking it's expensive to have done, or difficult to do myself?
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Does anyone know how to connect the four K-55's to the little terminal, can anyone make me an overview for it?
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20 hours ago, Marvel said:
How tall/high are your ceilings? Mine are about 10 feet. I can't move the MWMs into the corners, but have them leaning back on a side. I use the mid and tweeter from my LaScalas.
My ceiling is about 8.6'
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Thanks everyone for replying! I picked them up today, there are Eminence drivers (Unknown which) in one pair, and Eminence LAB 15 in the others. There's the Gauss HF4000, and a pair of Eminence BETA 10A which are in the 10" cabinets. And the Klipsch K55 in the mid/high cabinets. I don't know if any of the drivers work, I'm going to take out the drivers and terminal to give them a thorough clean and test the drivers.
I saw there's a pic of a pair of MCM's and the cabinets have carpet on them? Is this original? I liked the look! Also going to brush the aluminum strips to make them look better and maybe paint them? It's going to be a long term project haha.
Does anyone know how and if they sound good without a HF on them? How high does this midrange go?
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8 hours ago, Dave A said:
The important parts are all there. An aftermarket tweeter will work just fine for this and Chris posted a schematic. When I recapped my set I was kind of surprised at how basic and simple the crossover for a three way was and the four way just adds a bit more. I would still be using my MCM 1900 set to this day if I had not built the Super MWM's. Room size might be a problem. When I ran mine with just a crossover and no room correction ability it did not open up and sound like it should until I spread them out to maybe 16' center to center.
My room is about 16.5/17 feet wide, so I might be lucky, or unlucky haha. We'll find out. How far away should I sit from the speakers, and how much room do they need behind and next to them?
Klipsch MCM Advice
in Klipsch Pro Audio
Posted
Unfortunately it doesn't, it's way too quiet with those LAB 15's in 'em