rtaylor76

I returned the tweeter back to position #2 on the transformer after noticing some really lacking mids. I had to do an A/B comparison with my KEF's to really hear how mids sucked out. I want to try the other mod of the resistor and cap change before the transformer instead of the parallel resistor on the squawker. I will also add that it might have taken the Dayton caps to settle in. At first trey sounded very much warm, and now they sound much more balanced. Anyone else have this experience with Dayton MKP caps? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So i just purchased a pair of HBR's and did this mod and it did help, but all the high end details went away too. So I started look and asked why is there a 16 ohm resistor on the mid and not anything for the tweeter? By my values, here a are the calculations for where the crossover frequency is stock: Mid horn: 16 ohm x 8 (pin 2) = 128 ohms + 2uf cap = 621 hz (depending on calculation) Treble horn: 8ohm x 4 (pin 3) = 32 ohms + 1 uf cap (two 2uf caps in series) = 4973 hz Now with this mod: Mid horn: 8 ohm (two 16 ohm in parallel) x 16 = 128 ohms + 2uf cap = 621 hz (same as before) Treble horn: 8 ohm x 8 (pin 2) = 64 + 1 uf cap = 2486 hz (not the same) You could add a parallel resistor to the tweeter to move it to mach exactly. I don't even think this is necessary. Unmodded they have a mid hump, and doing the mid mod (moving the mid to pin 1 and adding 16 ohm resistor in parallel) does the trick. Leaving the high end intact keeps it's efficiency up and likely a flatter response. The top end may still sound a slight bit bright, but I think it is much more balanced and has a fuller range now. So my thinking is to do the mod to the mid horn and just leave the treble where it is. Thoughts?