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About jorjen

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  • Birthday 03/06/57

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    Atwater, Ca.
  1. Stunning!
  2. NO Salt! Not a fan of cold pizza either. There, I said it!
  3. As title states. Good/like new condition if possible. PM me. Thanks.
  4. Never mind. I can see by your pics that your jumper is on the -3db setting.
  5. I actually prefer Milk in my Cheerios. Whew, that was a close one. Glad I just laminated and veneered a pair of stock La Scala Bass Bins with OEM K-33's for mine, sheeesh!
  6. So you ended up using a mix of both the Standard AND Cast Duelund resistors? How much attenuation are you using with the 2404's? I do not need tweeter attenuation with my current configuration, just curious. I am using the 2404H(from my 3-way Jube Clones)the Eliptrac 400(also from my 3-way Jube Clones with TAD TD-4001's)now with Mr. Crites A-55 mid drivers with my un-ported La Scalas. Volti Audio VX crossovers. I will not be able to afford to go back to the TAD anytime soon but plan on replacing the A-55's with B&C DCM50's. The A-55 Drivers really are quite nice sounding however. Probably the single biggest mistake I have ever made in this hobby and this year marks my 50th year in it was selling the TD-4001's. They were pristine/like new cosmetically with original BE Diaphragms. There really is NOTHING quite like them. Ah, but I digress. I have constructed a pair of the port boxes and have four Precision Ports from Parts Express ready to install. I love the way they sound right now so I will get to the porting thing at some point. Just in no rush right now.
  7. SOLD!
  8. One pair B&K Sound/Crites CT120(b&c de120 driver)tweeters as new. Perfect condition, no flaws. Maybe 20 hours of light use tops. Purchased from Mr. Crites new on 07/29/2016. Used until I could make mounting brackets for my JBL 2404's. That task is now complete. I do not think I have to tell anyone this but these are VERY nice tweeters. $175.00 + $14.00 USPS 2-Day Priority Shipping in US. Payment via PayPal. Please PM me. Thank you for looking.
  9. Very nice work and cool project. I like my DE120's but I also really like my JBL 2404's. Might want to add them to your short list. Have always wanted to try one of the Fostex models.
  10. Just out of curiosity(because we are few on the Forum)what part of Central California? I am in Atwater.
  11. Nice grain matching. This is obviously the most difficult and time consuming area to veneer on a La Scala. Still fun though! Looking very nice!
  12. Read it again. It says within 10 minutes of application press together for 20-60 seconds to bond without clamping. Cures in 24 hours. With the panel sizes you are working with I would still use some type of fasteners for the best uniform bond. Edges and middle section. You don't need too many and I just try to space them somewhat evenly. If I decide to go to the trouble of using screws instead of my brad nailer I like to pre-drill and counter sink holes in the outer panel. When adding 3/4" material I use 1 1/4" flat head deck screws so they do not pop through the existing inside walls of the bin but give you 1/2" or slightly more bite. Also, as I mentioned before. The best thing about using fasteners besides the bond is you can proceed to work on your project. If you clamp, vacuum bag, etc., etc., you are pretty much prohibited from doing so for a time. Several ways to do this. I do it quite a bit so I am just trying to help.
  13. Outstanding!!!!
  14. Oh and by the way the pictures are of my own La Scalas. I did not wrap mine for resonance control. I wrapped them because they were so beat up it was easier than patching to achieve a good substrate for veneer. I used 1/4" MDF on this pair on exterior cabinet surfaces. I used 1/2" MDF on all the other ones. Flush trim opening to dog house.....
  15. I have done the cabinet overlay to several La Scalas the most recent pair being my own after removing the top section which is basically what you are working with. I have used contact adhesive, Tite Bond three and Gorilla Construction adhesive(which has replaced PL for me). Regardless of the adhesive I always try to achieve 100% coverage(not as important with the construction adhesive). whether you use a brush, roller, trowel, putty knife, etc. I have used my air nailer and brads or screws, but I always use some type of fastener. In the end they are just basically clamps for whatever adhesive you use. Gives me peace of mind as well. There are other ways to hold the panels in place while the adhesive cures but you cannot keep working using these methods(vacuum bag, clamps, etc.). After the adhesive cures I use my router and flush trim bit to remove the overlap on the newly added panels. I have got to say I am really starting to like the Gorilla Construction Adhesive. It is gap filling, strong as all get out, easier to compress than PL and any squeeze-out at the joints is easily removed with a putty knife after it cures for several hours. I brace the cabinet wedge style x 2 inside the dog house at midpoint as Richard mentioned above. I have made my own and bought braces from both Dave and Greg Roberts. They both sell grille frames as well. I have had rolls of both black and brown Klipsch(Duracrest)fabric for many years.