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Dneu2011

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Posts posted by Dneu2011

  1. This setup is back for sale!!!
     

    Unfortunately, Speakrpeepr received the amp with UPS mishandling the package and the bottom perforated sheet of the amp was bent upon arrival and caused issues with the amp not playing correctly. 
     

    He sent it back to me and I replaced the bottom with not one but two sheets of 22 gauge steel. The amp is back up and SINGING and it’s for sale again along with the Nutube preamp!
     

    Luckily, a close friend here in Houston was selling a Dual mono F5 and upgrade Nutube I built for him and was selling it on Reverb. Speakrpeepr asked me about it and I recommended it. He made a good purchase and is enjoying it!


    Pictures below show the new bottom plate for the F5.  CCA3501E-2C17-4F0F-B5E1-D144BE2BC995.jpeg.da44e3598df10d2694eef4b0bc5fbadb.jpeg

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  2. Newly built Pass Preamplifier and Amplifier! The amp is based on Nelson’s M2 but has swappable daughter boards for different inputs. The preamp was designed by Wayne Colburne who is Nelson’s lead preamp designer and works for Pass Labs. 
     

    I built the amp in a dual mono configuration as I had the space in the 5U chassis. The chassis I bought used so I had it powder coated satin black. Each amp board has its own Antek AS-2220 and 60,000uf in filter caps. 
     

    The preamp has 4 inputs, one output, and a headphone output. I used the AMB O22 for the regulated PSU. Torroidal transformer is from Antek.

     

    The boards from DiyAudio include 5 daughter boards. I built 4 of them and the last I hadn’t built because the parts were unavailable and I hadn’t had time to source them (Norwood’s). I will include those blank boards. 
     

    Power is 25 watts Class A into 8 ohms and 50 watts into 4 ohm. I have been using the setup on a pair of full range fostex speakers and tried it on my Harbeth speakers. Both sounded amazing!!!

     

    This amp has been said to be the absolute best amp from Nelson for mating with Klipsch speakers. I confirmed this by trying it with Cornwall III’s and other amps I built. 


    Shipping this extra large amp and preamp will be costly, but can do it for a good deal. 
     

    Asking $2000 plus shipping. 

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  3. Modwright SWL 9.0SE preamplifier with major upgrades from Modwright.

     

    - all new Polypropylene caps from ModWright

    - all new Upgraded Power Supply from ModWright

     

    I spoke with Dan directly about upgrading this unit and he sent me the Caps and the PSU and I installed them myself. The new parts equal out to $800 after shipping. I’ve been enjoying the unit for the last 7 months with no issues.

     

    I will include 2 rectifiers. A Sovtek 5AR4 and a NOS RCA worth $80 in the unit now. The 5687 tubes in the unit are Sylvania gold pins.

     

    I am only selling because I’m going to an integrated amp. Asking $1650 and I’ll ship it for free anywhere within the CONUS. 

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    • Like 1
  4. I recently changed the construction of this amp which was posted before. This is an amp camp amp designed by Nelson Pass that has upgrades recommended by Tungstenaudio on the DiyAudio threads.  I just put a brand new Meanwell LRS 24V 4.5A power supply inside the chassis. 

    The unit has 2 inputs and a 50k volume pot to allow you to save space and just add your two sources. You are welcome to use your own preamp on input 1 or 2 and adjust the volume to work with your preamp loudness level. This amp will work best on a pair of very efficient speakers. 10 watts Class A into 8 ohms. Just make sure your source has enough gain to get the full potential of this amp. 

     

    Any questions, just ask. Shipping from Houston and asking $425 and I’ll ship for free.  

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  5. 5 minutes ago, Speakrpeepr said:

    That would be great if you would do that wiring! The signal to the sub amp goes through a mini DSP but it would not change with the volume to the main speakers and that would be a pita. Let me know about that last cord question and the PP info. I'm going on a hike for the rest of the afternoon but in range a while longer if you want to complete this transaction.

    If you use a MiniDSP (which I currently have in my main setup) you should not need the second output as the sub output would come out of the DSP. 

     

    Sources -> Korg Nutube Preamp->MiniDSP->F5/Subwoofer(Amp)-> speakers

     

    Let me know if this would be correct and you would not need the second output. You would want the 3rd and 4th (if you have a second sub) output on your MiniDSP to be for your subwoofer.

     

    As for the power IEC. You can try it... but I use my better power cables on my sources and preamp. With an amplifier you probably would not hear much of a difference. 

  6. 7 minutes ago, Speakrpeepr said:

    Thanks for those answers. Heat sounds like a non issue, and I think I from what you said could use the Korg fixed output for the sub amp. I like a clean and accurate sound but I already have that with my existing preamp so it would be fun to play with the Korg, I think. I have some isolation feet that would probably work on the Korg (tenderfoots from Herbie's audio lab). So I think I want the Korg, hopefully won't feel FOMO later too much.

    Yea, no issues with heat on this amp and it is biased at the recommended .6V.

     

    The Korg is fun to experiment with because Nelson recommends switching the polarity of of the speaker wires on both speakers to get more 2nd harmonic distortion. My friend that has a preamp I built for him has tried both and likes to switch back and forth.

     

    The fixed would not work for your subwoofer. It is just a signal and before the volume pot. You would need to change the extra output or you will just have your subwoofer receiving a signal that is not adjustable with volume.  If you decide to buy the preamp and amp, I will change the output for you (no extra charge).

     

    Yea, some extra isolation under it would not hurt. In my office setup I have not needed more.

    • Like 1
  7. 31 minutes ago, Speakrpeepr said:

    ...and another question. Neither amp is pictured with a power cable, and the preamp seems to have a socket on the back of the case that would require some sort of wall wart or inline transformer. What's the power cord situation, especially for the preamp?

    The F5 uses a standard IEC Power cable. I can include one if you need it. The Korg and ACP both use a 24V Triad Wall Wart which would be included.

  8. 26 minutes ago, Speakrpeepr said:

    I did notice that! I've never built an amp before, just worked on existing ones that run much cooler, so not sure how a ventilated case works out vs. a more closed one with chunky heat sinks, especially on an amp that puts out so much heat. My question was related to reliability, not aesthetics or build quality. I like the build! This last question is more out of curiosity and not so important but I can't really tell what the volume knob looks like in the pic of the front face of the Korg Nutube preamp--insufficient image resolution. Can you snap another pic of that? Re: the preamp, also wondering if it you could confirm that it would be easy to rewire the second input to be a second output or if I'd have to figure out another solution to send a second signal to my other amp to power the swarm subs. Seems like I could easily do this but wanted to make sure.

     

    I have used the perforated sheet metal on most of my builds. It is easier to cut, readily available from Lowes, and it is easy to paint. So if you accidentally scratch it or damage the top you could cut a new one or just hit it with a few coats of paint.  I have built quite a few amp camps like this but this is my first F5 with it.

     

    Here is the link to the knob I used on the Korg from Diyaudio. It is tough to get a good picture because the knob is like a mirror! It is a Chrome finish so be sure to select that one on the link below to see exactly what it looks like.

     

    https://diyaudiostore.com/collections/accessories/products/precision-milled-aluminum-knobs?variant=6941970268194

     

    As for the 2nd output and easily adding one. You would want to go with the Korg. There is a fixed output on it that could be removed and just add 1K resistors across the RCAs to have a 2nd output. It would just require removing the fixed output rca wires and soldering 2 resistors.

  9. 47 minutes ago, Speakrpeepr said:

    Thanks for you replies. One last question: looking at your F5 and the heat sink area vs. that of the First Watt version it seems like there could be less on your build.I know it's meant to run hot, of course, but please confirm that the heat sink area was designed to be enough. Thanks again, excited at the prospect of owning these! If you had to characterize the sound of the ACP vs. the Korg what would that be? Have not found much commentary online about the sound of the ACP.

    With my heatsinks, I have not seen the amp go over 55 degrees Celsius with my infrared thermometer.  Nelson says, if you cannot keep your hands on the heatsinks for at least 3 seconds the heatsinks are too hot and require extra fans or ventilation. I am comfortably able to have my hands on them for over 10 seconds.

     

    The Korg vs the Amp Camp Preamp

    - Do you also like to use headphones? - Amp Camp Preamp also has a Headphone Out

    - Do you prefer a warmer tube-like sound? - The Korg Nutube

    - Do you prefer a more clean and accurate sound? - The Amp Camp Preamp

    - Do you need a fixed output for recording or adding headphone amp? - I added one to the Korg Nutube to use my Whammy headphone amp with

    - The Korg tube can ring if you accidentally hit the chassis or move the preamp. I added dampening materials inside to help but you want to be sure you have some isolation and keep it away from your subwoofer or loudspeakers if they have a ton of bass.

    - The Korg has an internal SMPS filter I added because there was extra space

    - The Korg you can tweak the distortion if you have an analyzer. I set it to the recommended voltage on the build guide.

     

    I don't have a favorite. I like to switch back and forth...

     

  10. Hello. For payment I take zelle, venmo, or PayPal F&F. 
     

    yes I will insure both items. 
     

    hours? Probably less than 20 on the amp. The F5 does not have any capacitors on the amp boards so there isn’t burn in needed. Only the PSU has 4 large filter caps. I just built the F5 a couple weeks ago after converting it from an Amp Camp torroidal to this F5. 
     

    Regarding parts I don’t know exactly what 6l6 used as it doesn’t come as a kit. I used only military spec Vishay resistors on the amp boards along with Futaba MPC71 5 watt resistors. I also used the MPC71 on the PSU.  
     

    I also have the Amp Camp Preamp as a preamp option. 


    I am located in Houston, TX. 

  11. I am selling my newly built Nelson Pass F5 amplifier along with a matching Pass Preamp. I have two preamp options; one is the Korg Nutube B1 and the other is the Amp Camp Preamp. Both in the same style chassis with 2 inputs and one output. The Korg has an extra fixed “tape” output. 
     

    The F5 was built to match 6l6’s build on DiyAudio on the forum called “An illustrated guide to building the F5.” I reached out directly to 6l6 to get his recommended grounding scheme and he help me get the amp to be dead silent on my Harbeth speakers. 25 watts class A into 8 ohms and more into 4 ohm. Can also handle a load down to 2 ohms. 
     

    I used 66,000 uf per rail and only military spec vishay resistors. The Mosfets were matched and I used genuine JFETs matched from DiyAudio. The chassis I made from a pair of scrap Heatsinks, perforated sheet metal painted black and a 10mm faceplate from Modushop. 
     

    I put this in my main system to compare to my Pass XA25 and it really surprised me how good it sounded vs Nelson’s Passlabs amp. 
     

    Asking $1250 shipped for one of the two preamps and the amp. 86D77191-8AE8-474B-87F2-79F70F83D40F.jpeg.44aa46627a4b8e6d553172a6515962fe.jpeg

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    • Like 2
  12. On 8/7/2022 at 11:12 AM, Bubo said:

     

    The growing list of projects I would like to do....

     

    If you could post the Bills of material

    and links for replicating your projects

    it would be helpful

     

    A lot of my project time gets sucked into

    Crawling around in attics in 150F changing failed exhaust motors

    and blowing the cottonwood seeds out of the clogged vents.

    New carburetor for a Lawn boy 4 Stroke arrived yesterday, so did the rain.

    Cleaning AC units and replacing the capacitors........

    etc etc etc ............

     

    You may want to make a new Topic for your favorite projects

     

    My 2 cents .......


    unfortunately, the gentleman that had been helping me get the CapMX PSU boards passed away recently, but I worked with a friend to get the gerber file recreated for the CapMX  boards to get my own made, but the baby delayed that and I’ve since started experimenting with Nelson’s CRC PSU and had good results making my own on a breadboard. 
     

    I recently finished this experimental project that had been delayed. It’s an external PSU made of torroidal and CRC PSU going into a chassis holding upgraded amp camp boards and Nelson’s H2 harmonic generator being used as the preamp driver. Two inputs with a switch and a volume knob. So this is an integrated amp with external PSU for lower noise floor. 
     

    I used quite a few spare parts on this project which is why you see the red leds and switch with yellow led. Can’t remember the exact wood I bought but I liked it so much I was willing to spend $40 for a small piece. 
     

    been testing the amp in my office on 95 db horn speakers and it sounds fantastic!
     

    It’s for sale if anyone is interested. 

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  13. Unfortunately I do not have a pair of monoblocks for sale. The only remaining amp I have for sale right now is the modified Amp Camp with torroidal transformer and upgraded PSU in larger 4u Chassis and 10mm aluminum silver faceplate. This amps modifications were made to sound better than a pair of monoblocks and power output of 10-15 watts class A. I have tested it vs the stock amp camps in monoblock and it is a for sure a fantastic amp with Klipsch and other efficient speakers.  Below is the amp with the matching ACP preamp.

     

    I do have a brother wanting to upgrade his two monoblock amp camps to something different. I can ask for his two amps and see what he wants for them. They are stock built with silver heatsinks, mahogany wood faceplates, RCA bridged ONLY, and look similar to the above walnut amps I built with the external laptop power supplies... I could rebuild, upgrade, and add all connections on the back and pair with a preamp.

     

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  14. Thanks Henry!  Yes, one Klipsch member purchased the toroidal walnut single amp last month. He liked it so much that he and I got to talking again about other options. I gave him a good deal on the Waynes Preamp plus the two Curly maple amp camps. I swapped out the faceplates to create a matching setup. Below is a picture of one of the monoblocks and the preamp.

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    • Like 2
  15. Unfortunately there isn’t really a link. If you built the stock amp camp in the diy chassis you have to modify the chassis and power wiring to be able to use an external power supply. 

     

    I use CapMX PSU boards created by Jason Keutemann and boards designed by Rudi Ratlos on DiyAudio. I build my own external power supply or incorporate the PSU and toroidal transformer into a single or two different amps (for Monoblocks). I have also tried a CRC (capacitor, resistor, capacitor) recommended by Nelson and it also sounds very nice. The walnut amp that just sold I built with the CRC and the Klipsch member that bought it sent me a video and he is REALLY enjoying it with his Heresy 3. 
     

    The stock amp camp 2U Dissipante chassis is too small to incorporate a good PSU and torroidal which is why an external PSU is a MUST. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  16. 3 minutes ago, Biscuit said:

     

    Thanks, I built the 8w x 2 ACA with the 24v wallwart. Love it, but need 20 of Nelson's watts to be fully happy with my bass place on my Chorus IIs.

    If you built them stock, there are some good upgrades I used on these amps along with the power supplies. 

    a good power supply makes the biggest difference. I built a pair of amps for a friend stock and had him listen through each upgrade and he heard a big difference each time. 
     

    the PSU he said was the biggest, but the easiest and cheapest is the schematic and part changes. 

    • Like 2
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