itsikhefez

Thanks I'll take a look there

Hi! The brochure says 8ohms but after my recap the binding posts measure 3.8 ohm on my DMM. Did I screw anything up or does yours measure the same? Thanks

Thanks alot for the quick responses..... will attempt this method as soon as I get a chance

Thanks, I think I have a better understanding of the process. One further clarification though- None of the tears actually go all the way through the material. The back is solid. In this case, do I actually need to use any paper? The way I am understanding this now is that I should push in the pieces that are sticking out (from the front), and fill the gap with thinned Weldbond/Emers until the surface is smooth again.

@Marvel thanks for you reply. This is the passive sub-radiator on the rear. The only non-wood Glue I have is Elmers white glue. Is that appropriate or is Weldbond preferred? Should I first cut off the protruding pieces or leave them in place? Would love a bit more detail on the process here as I've never done it before.

Hi all, I recently picked up a pair of Quartets and there is damage to one of the passive radiators. The tears looks like cat scratches.... although none go all the way through the material. I reached out to customer service and the KD-13-K is available for new purchase but the cost would be about $250 shipped for a pair which is about what I paid for the entire speakers. At this point I'm not sure whether to replace only the damaged one, both, try and repair or leave as-is. All suggestions welcome... Thanks

Thanks for confirming that. I'm sticking to the original values pretty close but not exact. I am replacing the 40R resistor (which measured 41.5R) with Mills MRA-5 39.2R resistors. The 80uf cap (which measured 83uf) will be replaced with a 82uf cap. (all measurements done with Fluke 87-V DMM) I am assuming these small differences are fine since the original parts are atleast 10% tolerance anyhow (unless someone at Klipsch sorted them out and picked exact values, but based on what I measured that doesnt seem to be the case)

Right.. so should I believe the schematic or the current part in the crossover? I'm sure other Quartet owners can confirm...

Thanks for the response @EpicKlipschFan I bought them from the original owner, and based on our short conversation I'm pretty confident they did not do any modifications to the crossover. Attached is a pic of the crossover and the cap that I removed... they all look original Klispch parts. I have not opened up the other speaker, I should probably do that to compare.

Hi all, First post here! I'm more active over at AK and posted there but have not gotten any responses so will try here. I have a DIY 300B amp and have been looking for speakers for a long time... finally picked up a pair of Quartets from CL. I'll be doing most of the usual "upgrades" but have 2 particular questions: 1) Electrolytic cap value -- In the schematic it seems to be 50 or 60uf (can't really tell which), but currently there is 80uf there. I was wondering how crucial the number is here actually? Do I need to put a 80-82uf cap in there, or will a 68uf or 100uf work as well? Asking since I have preferred choices in those values 2) Any recommendations for gasket, particularly the 12" passive radiator? After removing it to do XO work, it appears to be very thin and may tear. Thanks in advance!