Frode
-
Posts
28 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by Frode
-
-
Here's a post where djk explains more about the filter: http://www.diysubwoofers.org/talkshop/messages/35659.htm
Frode
-
Marvel, no problem! Here's a link to the thread on the Oris forum: http://www.bd-design.info/forum/reply.php?id=6640,6640
Homemade, the EQ is done by a hipass filter with Q=2 at 31Hz. This is the same as 6dB EQ at 31Hz. I have a spreadsheet simulating this but unfortunately I don't no how to post a graph from it. With no room effects the ported/EQ'ed box is almost flat from 30Hz, and the sealed stock box is almost 14dB down compared to this. Above ~100Hz there isn't much effect from the porting/EQ'ing, but here the horn loading starts. So the combination of the horn and the port/EQ makes the response quite flate.
Frode
-
Just to clear up some things. I never posted any numbers on the performance of the modified bin. This was done by some other Oris owners who used the K33E and no EQ. I used the JBL 2226H and 7dB EQ at 32Hz.I also tried shorter ports/no EQ, but in my opinion the long port/EQ sounded best.
Frode
-
It looks very interesting, how much does it cost? Too much for me I'm afraid! I'll just have to stick with DIY subs made from the two JBL SUB1500 that arrived today.
Frode
-
BackBurner, I used the first drawing at this page: http://www.audiofanatic.it/Piani_costruttivi/pic_piani/LaScala/LaScala.html
Frode
-
The additional box is ~2.6 cu.ft, which gives a total of ~4.8 cu.ft. The ports are 4" x 12.5". I use ~7dB EQ at 32Hz. I guess you can change the numbers a bit, but not much.
Frode
-
No, unfortuantely I don't have any plots. I used the JBL 2226H. I've attched a pic of the inside too.
Frode
-
I built them from scratch. The ports are autosound items, you should get them in a car audio shop. The setup sounds good, but I think it can be better. I use an active XO on the bass(200Hz, 12dB/oct), nothing on the Oris. I hope some changes in the XO will give me even better sound.
Frode
-
-
Pictures as promised!
Frode
-
You're lucky to have the Oris 150. I have the Oris 200 and it looks way too small on top of the new bass bins. As I said, pictures are on their way.
Frode
-
I just had the bass part, so I made an additional chamber (same size as the original top box) and put this "below". But to keep my Oris horn at ear level, I've put the bass bins on their side. They are now ~35" wide and ~24" tall.
Frode
-
I've just done the mod on my LS bass bins. They now look like the original LS with mid/tweeter horn replaced by two 4" ports. I'll have pictures ready in a week or so.
Frode
-
I think my additional box was around 9" internal height.
Frode
-
I've gone back to the standard setup now. I only use the LS bass bin, so in order to get bigger rear chamber, I had to make them taller. This is a problem for me since I use the Oris horn on top like this http://www.bd-design.com/media/koo3.jpg (not my system!). The mod puts the centre of the Oris 45-46" above the floor(36-37" without the mod), which is too high.
I'm moving into a bigger flat next weekend, so mayby I'll try the mod again and put the LS on its side. This should keep the centre-floor distance around the same.
I also tried to EQ the vented LS, but I don't think I would use this in my current room, just too much. This would probably be much better in a bigger room.
If I had the regular LS, I would definately do the mod. It is cheaper and easier than getting a sub that matches the LS(at least for me, a RSW-15 costs around 3500$ here in Norway).
Frode
-
Yesterday I did my first test with the vented LaScala. I used a 4.8 cu.ft backchamber tuned to 30Hz. I didn't have the parts needed for eq'ing, so I'll have to try this later. It sounded great and I'm going to experiment more.
Frode
-
I checked the price on the RSW-12, and it is actually 2855$. The Tumult is very interesting, and could probably work very well in a sealed enclosure of ~3.5 cu.ft. Some EQ could be added(if needed). This is not the ultimate sub, but I think it could make me happy.
Frode
-
I've just checked the price on the Tumult at LS Wagner in Germany. It costs 880$, so I guess it would be cheaper to buy it from Adire. I don't think the shipping would be 380$ more from USA.
-
I'm thinking of building it "from scratch", just like I did with my Lascala bass bins. I'm looking for drivers and designs that are suitable for me. Buying from "over there" is probably the only solution, since the Peerless XLS is about the best I can get in Norway. Pro drivers like Beyma, RCF, JBL, Eminence, Fane and B&C are available, but then the cabinet is getting bigger again.
Frode
-
The price isn't very important, if I can't afford it now, I'll have to wait. Besides, prices and availability are very different in Norway compared to USA. A RSW-12 costs ~2700 US$. But to give you a guideline I would say 600-800$ plus amplification. It CAN be cheaper. Size is more important, something like the LABHorn is too big.
Frode
-
I would like to build a sub(maybe 2?) for my LS. They are only used for music, not HT. The room is around 215sq.ft. Does anyone have any suggestions?
TIA
Frode
-
----------------On 5/7/2003 11:34:26 PM Tony Boone wrote:Even if they are considered over priced.----------------
Here in Norway the K-33E costs ~250$ each. That is over priced.
Frode
-
Marvel,
I'm going to try djk's mods on one of my bass bins during Eastern holiday. I've just returned from a friend who helped me cut some wood for the project. A box that will give me ~2cu.ft extra volume will be added. I guess I have to experiment with the tuning.
Frode
-
I know the horn has it's limits, but from what I understand, there is more deep bass with the K33-E than with the K43-E. I thought this could be the case with the 2226H too, but since you obviously haven't tried, you can't help me.
Frode
Danley Labs DTS-20 On The Way
in Home Theater
Posted
Here's a DIY version of something similar:
http://www.speakerstore.nl/index.php?l=nl&pg=12&prjID=33
http://www.speakerstore.nl/index.php?l=nl&pg=11&c=61
Frode