aabum

I thought the stock diaphragms are phenolic, the Bob Crites diaphragms were the only titanium ones you can get. Am I incorrect?

No declawed cats in this house. Where I live you would be hard pressed to find a veterinarian that will perform the procedure. Haven't had a problem with the cats clawing my grill yet, knock on zebrawood. I know I'm going to update the diaphragms, just not right away. I think I'm going to replace the 68uf cap with a Nichicon UDB cap. Not sure if I want to install inductors with larger gauge wire. I know the H3s are supposed to sound better, but I've always liked the sound of the Is and IIs, so I'm content with the IIs. I haven't heard a set of IIIs. One of my secrets to audio happiness is to not going to high end audio shops and listening to gear that's more expensive than I can afford. As it is I have three or four solid state amps that I like the sound of and an equal amount of tube amps that sound better than the solid state amps.

While I'm new here, my standard, possibly unhelpful help for speakers, especially those with horns, is to get a nice little tube amp.

Here's a couple pictures. They're on one of my work surfaces, which isn't a spot for good pictures. It's somewhat difficult to get good pics of the zebrawood without washing out some of the color.

Thanks for the welcome. I realize that answers to my questions are subjective, as is anything audio, but general consensus is usually close to correct in my experience. While the speakers sound good now, I'm going to replace the 68uf cap now as I would any older electrolytic cap. While I'm in there, I would just as soon make all the crossover upgrades so I don't have to worry about anything later. Regarding the Crites diaphragms, everything I've heard/read about them is that they make a significant difference to the good. I'm not clear if folks are mostly hearing the improvements from updating the mid horn or the tweeter.

Hi, I just picked up a nice set of Heresy II speakers in zebrawood, built in 1986, round binding post cap. These are my endgame speakers. They sound great, but I know updating the crossovers has the potential to improve the sound a small amount. I typically work on tube amps and have been under the impression that poly caps don't go bad, but I see everyone putting in new poly caps. Do poly crossover caps actually go bad or is this to modify stock sound? I see that the stock 68uf cap is electrolytic, and people replace that with a poly caps. What sonic difference will I hear between a audio grade electrolytic, I would use Nichicon, and a lower to moderate priced poly cap? Is it necessary to match the esr of the replacement 68uf cap to the stock cap? Assuming data on the stock cap is available. One nice little thing I have learned from working on tube amps is that Panasonic ECWF polycaps(about $1-$1.50) sound pretty dang good, to the extent that many people can't tell the difference between them and some boutique caps, circuit dependant. Has anyone used these Panasonic caps in their Klipsch crossovers? There's an inexpensive Wima polycap that also sound good to as a coupling caps. Has anyone used AudioCap Theta caps in their crossovers? They're the most expensive caps I've ever used in a tube amplifier and they do sound pretty good, though I don't know that they sound any better than the Panasonic caps. Will I notice a difference if I use larger gauge wire inductors? I'm going to mount the crossovers on a piece of wood attached to the bottom of the speaker so real estate will not be a problem. I would like to update the diaphragms to Crites titanium. Should I do this with both horns? Thanks for any and all input.