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absolve2525

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  1. Wow don't see those every day! Sweet speakers. GLWS
  2. Thanks, I'm certainly open to incorporating well-made resistors in the future! I briefly compared one speaker with the stock resistor and another with the Mundorf MR10 of the same 22 ohm value. I couldn't really tell a difference at the time, so figured I may as well just keep the Mundorf in both since it wasn't hurting the sound! I don't doubt that moving up to a higher-end resistor would improve things further.
  3. These are in a carpeted bedroom, with a bed and pillows on the opposite wall. So not really much in the way of side absorption. Good suggestions!
  4. An Update: After a lot of cranking the speakers the past few weeks, as well as some cable and amp swaps, I'm appreciating the midrange at stock levels. I did try replacing the stock 22 ohm resistor with a 33 ohm Mundorf, but it kind of sucked out the midrange. I did order a pair of 22 ohm Mundorf resistors also, and I decided to install those in place of the stock ones. Maybe the new resistors sound better? Lol probably not, but I do think the caps and/or Crites Ti might have broken in some also. I did swap in a nice 80 watt 1990s Yamaha Stereo receiver with an adjustable loudness contour, and I'm getting a real synergy with some use of that. I thought maybe the Dayton caps were too dull initially, but now I'm getting good detail without too much brightness. Thanks for all the input! I may eventually pull the midrange horns and coat the backs with silicone for additional damping.
  5. Congrats! My pair is black also, nothing wrong with that. I'm sure they sound great. What are you powering them with?
  6. I recently found a Marantz 2210 (10 watts per channel) with the wood case locally, and I'm floored at how sweet it sounds with my KLF30s in a smallish room. All of these older Marantz will need some settings adjusted for optimal sound (bias, DC offset) as well as possibly new capacitors or transistors. The 2220 or 2230 share the same capacitor coupled design and sound great with Klipsch. I like the big boys also! My recapped 2330B is a favorite but Klipsch don't need nearly that much power. Hard to really go wrong with these vintage Marantz, just make sure to check the functions beforehand. Have fun!
  7. Yup, cabinets are solid and this version has bracing inside. I have a pair of K55v with solder lugs I could try, but not sure how well they fit the stock midrange horn.
  8. I just swapped in my rebuilt Marantz 2275 vintage receiver, and I'm getting less bright midrange and smoother sound. Apparently its a better synergy for my tastes.
  9. Yes, K-79-K tweeters used ferrofluid. K-75-K is the same tweeter found in Tangent T5000, but with no ferrofluid. I debated whether or not to replace or just remove and leave it out, but I had extra on hand from Parts Express and figured I would replace it so it's the same as before. Perhaps some K-79-K don't have it, can't tell ya there. It was in both pairs from my Chorus 2s and the KLF30s also. In my KG4s, which don't have K-79-Ks, one pair had ferrofluid while one did not. Weird!
  10. Thanks for the suggestion. Sounds easy enough! Where do you order those from?
  11. I meant that the Heresy 2 and Tangent T5000 use the same crossover, to the best of my knowledge. My Tangent T5000 crossover boards are labeled Heresy 2 on the boards themselves. Thanks
  12. Parts Express has good quality, inexpensive higher value electrolytic caps for speaker crossovers. https://www.parts-express.com/68uf-100v-electrolytic-non-polarized-crossover-capacitor--027-356
  13. Thanks, I do have a tube amp I can try with them. I may try biamping also, with a higher powered solid state amp on the woofers and the tube amp on the mids/highs.
  14. I finally got around to recapping with Dayton poly caps for mids and highs, Parts Express house brand electrolytics for the woofers, installing Crites Ti diaphragms, and replacing ferrofluid in the tweeters. I've been letting them crank when I can, to break everything in. The Crites do seem to improve and smooth out after playing a while, in my opinion. Anyways, the mids still seem a little hot for my ears. I'm used to the Tangent T5000 / Heresy 2 sound, which I believe has more midrange attenuation compared to the KLF 30s. They sound very great, don't get me wrong, but I'm in a smaller room and the mids are a little overwhelming with my current gear. What's the best way to reduce midrange level? Do I need the Crites autoformers and new midrange caps? Should I install 16 ohm l-pads from Parts Express? Detailed instructions would be helpful. Thanks!
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