merkinman
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Posts posted by merkinman
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2 hours ago, mikebse2a3 said:
Can you post pictures of your setup..?
Do you have at least some basic speaker/room reflection points attended to with acoustical treatments..?
The reason I ask is based on my experiences many people start swapping equipment trying to fix problems that are really early room reflection issues which should really be the first thing attended to if you have the freedom to use acoustical treatments.
miketn
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12 hours ago, Shakeydeal said:
I have the speakers firing directly at me. If you want to try off axis cross them just in front of your listening position. You will lose some definition, but it might smooth them out some.
I have things sorted out enough that I prefer them on axis now, but that took some amp swapping as well as placement tweaking. I am extremely happy with their performance now.Shakey
I found that having them next to the side walls and facing my listening position to where the tweeter fires just over my shoulders the best for a seamless soundstage and to where they don't make themselves known. Need to do some tube rolling or make a cable change to tone down the high frequencies just a tad. What has me confused is that the sound is a bit inconsistent. Sometimes I find it perfectly smooth and even and other days it tends to sound a bit bright with the same music/source. They should be broken in by now...at least a couple of hours on them i think.
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On 12/24/2020 at 4:50 AM, Shakeydeal said:
It has been my experience that although the mids in the CW IV are some of the best yet, there can still be some sharpness that creeps in from time to time. I have been experimenting with placement and have banished that almost completely. I suggest you keep moving them slightly because a little bit makes a big difference with these speakers. When you get it right you will know it and you’ll have a big grin on your face.
Shakey
Did more toe out work for you? I find there is a trade off as the imaging suffers with less toe in but the tonal balance is warmer and less harsh.
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1 hour ago, habinger808 said:
I actually ran my CW4s with that amp and it’s sounded really good. Just didn’t have the lower end that my new EVO300 has. I’m sure I’ll be changing out the power tubes for KT88s or 150s
Are you using all stock tubes with your CW4s? Any brightness issues?
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29 minutes ago, Chris A said:
I don't believe it's about "simplicity". It's about the amount of negative feedback used that's much more audible on horn-loaded loudspeakers. Well-designed horn loaded loudspeakers lack the proportionately much larger amounts of modulation distortion that direct radiating loudspeakers have--especially those that are low efficiency. This means that you have a great deal more clarity to hear the effects of the higher order harmonics generated by class D amplifiers, which, according to the guy that wrote the article linked just above, have to use a fair amount of negative feedback. Class D amplifiers categorically use larger amounts of negative feedback than class A and AB types.
Chris
Do you have any recommendations?
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2 hours ago, Panelhead said:
The best match integrated in my humble opinion is the Lyngdorf TDAI-1120. Not a powerhouse, but plenty for Klipsch speakers.
Lot of connectivity options, subwoofer outputs, and Room Perfect DRC. The Room Perfect is the standout. List is around 2200.00 USD.
I'm a bit wary of class D amps, especially with horns. Haven't heard the Lyngdorf, but it definitely has a great reputation. My thinking is that since I have this incredibly efficient speaker, it would make sense to utilize a low power amp that may have some inherent advantages because of the low power and simplicity.
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Has anyone heard the Luxman SQ-N150 with Cornwall IVs? Looking for a sweet sounding amp that can take the edge off. I'm driving my CWIVs with a PrimaLuna EVO300 and the sound can be somewhat bright with stock tubes. Tried changing out the input tubes to NOS Bugle Boys and it improved, but still inconsistent. Also intrigued by the Decware Zen Triode.
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On 12/15/2020 at 7:22 AM, rayrcanales said:
I am still in the hunt for a pair of CornWalls in Texas
does anyone have or know of any?
Thank you Family
I have a pair in San Antonio that's for sale.
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2 hours ago, richieb said:
Frumpy? By that you mean a square or rectangular box made of 3/4 or 1” ply would that apply to many a Klipsch offering - Heresy, Forte, Cornwall of any vintage? I have a pair Volent floorstanders in piano black that make any pair of Klipsch I own look like a budget line speaker, sonics notwithstanding—I would have to agree that Tannoy look too vintage and overdone. Unless you live at Buckingham Palace, they are just too ornate. I think the Klipsch Heritage speakers have a retro modern look and fit in much better with any decor.
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19 minutes ago, moray james said:
You can think all you want but no matter how badly you may want something won't necessarily make it so. Tannoy have a round horn (take a tape measure they are well below your seated ears) and they radiate vertically much more so than the rectangular mid horn which a Klipsch uses. You set up a speaker so that you are on axis to the mid driver if you want to hear what it can do. If that is to much trouble for you or it upsets the sensibilities don't feel bad you are in the majority but that doesn't change a thing. The market decides in the end what a product is going to be, how big how much, you can't fight reality and the market does not know anywhere near as much as they would like to think otherwise if they were so smart they would build it themselves. But that's not the case and as a manufacture you do the best that you can given the budget you that you have and the technology available to you and you sell the people as close to what they want as you can.
So you are saying to make sure the Klipsch horn is on axis vertically, correct? I thought you were talking about the Tannoys needing to be elevated. Shouldn't the Fortes already be at the correct height by virtue of them being taller and should be at the optimal height relative to normal sitting position. I could see your point if you are auditioning both and are not seated, but I wouldn't think that would typically be the case.
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20 hours ago, moray james said:
Why? Horns are directional so you don't want to be off axis. For this reason when frequency response measurements are taken they are all taken at the same distance and on axis. What ever the manufactures reason(s) for product design choices it matters not, recognized frequency response and polar response are all taken at a standard distance and on axis with polar response on a turntable for 360 degree measurements. For this reason many raise their speakers up on stands to achieve best results.
But if the Tannoys are intended/designed with the tweeter firing just below you ears, why would you want to raise them up to compare? They are not intended to be placed on stands. The soundstage has realistic height without them being elevated ...not like the Heresy where you get the impression of the sound coming up from below. I would think the designer compensated for the height to achieve the desired tonal balance.
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Soundstage depth is also better on the Klipsch.
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4 hours ago, moray james said:
when folks compare Tannoy to Forte they should insure the tweeters are at the same height up off the floor. Most Tannoy fire at your knees much like the Klipsch Epic series do.
Why? Cheviots were designed that way and it didn't seem like the soundstage was any lower than the Forte.
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6 hours ago, Fido said:
I liked the Cheviots I heard at Upscale very much but was actually surprised how much more ALIVE my Forte 1s sounded once I hooked the PL up to them. Even better now that I have Dave A's Lmahl Tweeters -- just a different energy - but I could easily live with the Tannoy if Klipsch did not exist
I would agree with you. I would really need to crank up the Tannoys to get engaged and otherwise they sounded a bit dull. The Klipsch sound engaging at any volume. I own Cornwalls now and I'm still trying to optimize them. Very sensitive to placement and any other equipment you hook up to them. The CWs can be placed much closer to the front wall without bass becoming boomy. I had to place the Cheviots about 4' off the wall before the bass sounded right in my room.
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I've owned the Tannoy Legacy Cheviot and had the Forte III for audition at the same time. The Cheviot was far superior in imaging and refinement. Much better tone as well. By comparison, the Forte sounded more transparent but also grainy and gritty. I chose the Tannoy, but ended up selling it later on because the horn was way too fatiguing...beaming and ringing was crazy. Maybe it was just me, but I didn't get the same fatigue from the Klipsch. The main shortcoming of Klipsch is the lack of refinement. I would add that if you are not comparing them directly, these characteristics would not be as apparent. That being said, I do think Klipsch are more engaging.
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Contrary to the name, I think they need to be pulled away from the front wall by at least a couple of feet. The soundstage improved significantly in my case. I do have them very close to the side walls and pretty far apart giving me a huge soundstage. The side walls are treated for reflections and they are only slightly toed in. I really didn't care for them crossing in front of me.
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On 11/15/2020 at 9:13 AM, Jacko2929 said:
Large baffle speakers like the CW are not going to disappear completely with every recording, but you really have to spend some time with placement to optimize. I've been tweaking mine for a couple months now and finally got them to where they give me depth and good imaging...disappearing is very recording dependent. I've seen a lot of people put these up against the front wall and that will not give you depth. Speakers need room to breathe and minimize reflections. Toe in makes a big impact as well. In my opinion, the CWs excel at giving you that effortless sound with an incredible midrange. Tradeoff is they can't disappear like small speakers. What are you currently using to power the CWs?
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On 11/14/2020 at 5:11 AM, Chris A said:
I would strongly recommend bass traps (more than one) and a fair amount of absorption material covering the walls, and carpet (thicker is better) on the floor.
Most stereo setups rely on drywall flexure at low frequencies to absorb these hard-to-absorb frequencies, but concrete walls don't do that very well. Cornwalls have a very well-controlled bass response, so what you're likely hearing is the lack of low frequency absorption.
The miniDSP (all crossovers except the "2x4"--without the "HD"...this has too much noise/too little gain latitude) you mention could also be useful in re-EQing the bass frequencies to flat response, and also the rest of the midrange and treble bands--measuring one loudspeaker at a time--to get the overall response as flat as you can. Don't use boosting EQ at low frequencies--just attenuating PEQs to flatten the peaking response areas, or you'll be chasing your tail pushing room modes around.
I wouldn't try to use room EQ software (Audyssey, etc.) in a hard-walled room with so little absorption. It's better to do it manually or you'll probably wind up dissatisfied by the results.
You'll need something like a UMIK-1 (calibrated microphone) and Room EQ Wizard (REW) shareware to measure at your listening position(s) to do this effectively.
Good luck.
Chris
I'm looking forward to trying out the miniDSP. Does the DSP correction degrade sound quality in a noticeable way?
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8 minutes ago, RandyH000 said:
is the resonance equal in both speakers - have you tried rotating the speakers to see if there is a difference -
Haven't really noticed. What are you thinking?
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16 hours ago, Chris A said:
I would strongly recommend bass traps (more than one) and a fair amount of absorption material covering the walls, and carpet (thicker is better) on the floor.
Most stereo setups rely on drywall flexure at low frequencies to absorb these hard-to-absorb frequencies, but concrete walls don't do that very well. Cornwalls have a very well-controlled bass response, so what you're likely hearing is the lack of low frequency absorption.
The miniDSP (all crossovers except the "2x4"--without the "HD"...this has too much noise/too little gain latitude) you mention could also be useful in re-EQing the bass frequencies to flat response, and also the rest of the midrange and treble bands--measuring one loudspeaker at a time--to get the overall response as flat as you can. Don't use boosting EQ at low frequencies--just attenuating PEQs to flatten the peaking response areas, or you'll be chasing your tail pushing room modes around.
I wouldn't try to use room EQ software (Audyssey, etc.) in a hard-walled room with so little absorption. It's better to do it manually or you'll probably wind up dissatisfied by the results.
You'll need something like a UMIK-1 (calibrated microphone) and Room EQ Wizard (REW) shareware to measure at your listening position(s) to do this effectively.
Good luck.
Chris
Appreciate the advice. I have a pretty well treated room. 3' tall 6" thick corner bass traps behind the speakers, carpet, and 2" thick panels at first reflection points. A wall to wall bookshelf on the back wall. I really think it's the concrete floor and walls. I ordered the minDSP DDRC-22D and will see what that can do. I would say the bass issues are only audible with 20% of the content, so it seems pretty isolated/specific. Will report back.
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I was able to install threaded inserts to the base without any issues. Ironically I prefer the sound without spikes. At least now I know.
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I've noticed what to me sounds like bass resonance from inside the speaker cabinet and it seems to vary to a large degree on the recording. I have a bit of a challenging room...14' x 20' basement with concrete floors and front/side walls. The speakers are positioned 1-2 feet from the front wall near the corners and toed in a bit on the short wall. I've experimented with placement and it doesn't seem to help. Are there any known issues with lack of bracing of the cabinet? I don't have a lot of flexibility with speaker placement due to them being located in my home theater on either side of the screen, so I was thinking of getting a mini DSP or ACS tube bass traps for the corners to see if that would help in case it's the room. Appreciate any advice.
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On 11/5/2020 at 8:31 PM, RandyH000 said:
the Risers on the CW IV are made with MDF --
What are the chances the MDF will split if I try to drill/screw in the threaded inserts?
amp synergy with Cornwall IV's/Forte III's/Heresey IV's?
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
Thanks for the input. The 2x4 panels are 2" deep and the 1x4 are 1". I have bass traps in the corners as well. Nothing on the side walls behind the seating position. The back wall is floor to ceiling book shelves.