analogman
-
Posts
474 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Events
Gallery
Posts posted by analogman
-
-
That speaker is in a very special class with a serial number well below 1000
Serious collectors will be all over this one, especially Asian, so don't let anyone hoodoo you on this one (maximum dollars realized)
The Back to Mono movement is alive and well in Japan especially
I would suggest Audiogon or maybe even ePay with the clear understanding that the new owner handles freight and packing if shipping is involved
I would think you would want the maximum exposure you could get to the market for one like that (again, for maximum dollars realized)
That speaker could bring you some real money
The folks at the Klipsch museum may even have some degree of interest in an early example like yours but I have no idea
I know there are plenty of members here more than capable of paying the price, whatever it might be, but I would let the market SET it
Best of luck with your sale (although I don't think you'll need any)
Craig
-
Nope, you know what dudes?
I'd call them
That's what I would do 'cause we all know that ALL websites get updated every two seconds
Right?
You know how many times my wife would have missed shit if I hadn't called the FREE telephone number for the BIG *** brick and mortar store?
And ME too?
A lot
Makin' moves based only on what a web page for a real store says is a losing game - ask me how I know
I'm not saying they got - but I am saying I never trust ANY stock status with ANYTHING I'm trying or wanting to buy on-line IF there's a number I can call
Plus you might get an even better deal
Human to Human baby
Just sayin'
-
It's a boilerplate description they use for cameras
I'd call them
-
1 minute ago, BlessedPrince said:
I managed to ****** a really good one from eBay At $688. Just need one more.
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkForget my only one comment - I just went back and they've got 4 they show as in stock all for under $500
-
On 4/9/2018 at 9:34 PM, BlessedPrince said:
Looking for a pair at a decent prize. Around $1k. I know it’s a little low but you never know.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
google
adorama has some right now for about that*
didn't spend a lot of time on it but there's plenty out there
*sorry, they only had a single on clearance @ $459.00
-
As far as the "insane" descriptive, how do any of us here know that ad wasn't placed by a fellow forum member?
You can see by one of those photos what possibly could very well be some other Klipsch product as well
I was just in a thread in which moderators deleted several posts due to milder comments regarding asking price than "insane"
And was also reminded that a seller can ask what they wish and if you don't like it then just keep your comments to yourself
So, what gives with that?
Craig
-
12 hours ago, beezbo said:
Nice score!!! That would be perfect. I saw that pair $1300 pair on CL, looks nice, but way too much over what they normally go for, and a bit out of the way to drive out for a non-deal. If anyone out there has a pair or sees one like this, please ping me.
The guy in Sac would take $400 so fast it'd break your arm
I bet
Give it a try if you can afford it
(look at the environment they are in - he doesn't need the money)
Just a business angle/doesn't want to pack and ship/and a wife bitching about too many speakers
Again, I bet
He'll take $400 cash money for those speakers
Try it and come back and let me know if I was right or wrong
Aside from that - Best of luck with your hunt!
Craig
-
2 minutes ago, Ole Dollar said:
@analogman I totally agree with you as placement is the bigger deal, thank you Captain Obvious.
Our Chorus II's were a wedding present to ourselves and as I mentioned my OCD would have me restore to newest condition as possible. I do have other speakers that I would gladly do the repairs above, especially if no factory parts are available. The speakers I have repaired do not reach the level of my Chorus or Jubilees so I did not really hear a difference in them after repair - just stopped further issues.
Sometimes I used fingernail polish for some cheap speaker tears like on Bose.
That's not OCD - that's being fastidious and whether it's "overly" or not is a matter of opinion and it's definitely not a negative
I'm the same way
But now with the background story to go along with it, all the more reason I would keep the compliment all original and just do a proper repair
You have to do what you have to do
-
1
-
-
39 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:
And you don't think they are manufactured elsewhere?
Uh, yeah, that being the point of the example
-
1
-
-
30 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:
What exactly do you consider "the real thing"??
I don't want to get into a debate or an argument
I think my sentiments are pretty clear
-
On 4/8/2018 at 7:53 PM, wuzzzer said:
I love the look of these. I'm keeping these 100% original. No crossover work, no diaphragm changes, no staining the cabinets. Just a little dusting, detailing and listening.
They're not as mint as I was hoping but for their age they're gorgeous. Some pencil marks from a kid I assume. Have to track down an eraser.
Also, is there a name for this style and color of grill?
You can seal them with a water based finish that will not darken or foul up the natural wood color in anyway
Has to be water based as even so called "crystal clear" lacquer will darken light colored wood
I've done a few pairs like that and the results were gorgeous
Keeps the wood clean and protected from moisture
-
1
-
-
I've contemplated a pair of IIIs since they came out, but I just can't get over the price, even used
Even though the box is still made in Hope, it's filled with chinese drivers : - (
Maybe I'm cutting off my nose to spite my face but to me it just isn't the same
If I'm going to go with the modern sourced drivers why not just go with a new model Klipsch that's going to offer up much better performance? That or build something with Dayton drivers?
It's just not right, especially when those drivers could still be sourced stateside
To me, they're just a facsimile
For the money they ask for the III series one could buy an AWFULLY nice pair of the real thing
Sorry
Craig
-
On 3/23/2018 at 12:10 PM, SiliconTi said:
From the seller:
"Yes, for brackets. They were suspended with security cables as well."
Dang. I hate holes - especially on these as re-veneering will be tricky.
Easy fix, with or without filler
Take off the back - get a sharp knife and shave off a sliver of the Birch
Use this to fill the holes instead of filler (remember to orient the grain carefully)
Sand them (they need it anyway) and apply a proper finish
You'll never know they were there
OR
Just use Famowood natural filler (which is wood based and takes stain better than anything I've used) but you will see the little perfectly round fills if you go light and don't seal first
Either way, not a deal breaker
Especially as the woofers are so clean and the date code indicates they are '74s so the horns should be metal
Craig
-
On 4/4/2018 at 8:27 AM, MychaelP said:
So, my ancient Polk surrounds died at the same time with heavy static coming from the woofers. touching them fixes, then back again. They were made for surround and fastened to my side walls as upper surround speakers for more than 25 years.
Since then I have RB3's as front L/R and RC3 center. Along with an SVS sub next to the sofa (yes it works amazing there and that location was selected due to multiple options not sounding as good).
I'd like to match the surrounds in timbre as much as I can, and considered replacing the Polk surrounds with the cheaper T15's since I like that they just "hang" on the wall with a single screw.
Is there a Klipsch option that also can "hang" on the wall easily? I see the R14S, but not sure if I want to go that route as I liked the directional sound from the older Polks.
Suggestions?
What's wrong with the Polks (and what model are they)? What do you mean by touching them fixes? Do they just need new surrounds? It's not typical that two speakers would go out on you at the same time.
If it's not a surround issue (as in speaker surround) then you might want to check the speaker taps on your amp for too much DC
If the woofers just need new surrounds I'll do them for you gratis; you pay for shipping and the edges
I see some of your other posts regarding cross over issues - those are an easy fix as well. Do you know what type of caps Polk used in the problem pair?
-
15 hours ago, Islander said:15 hours ago, Islander said:
In my experience, the newer turntables are better than the older ones. The Technics engineers haven't been just sitting around all these years.
The first Technics turntable I got was a used SL-1400 Mk. 2. I thought it sounded pretty good, and had a Shure M97xE cartridge installed on it.
The buttons on the 1400 were a bit sticky, and there was a slight funny noise as the platter turned, so I decided to buy a new SL-1210M5G before they were all gone. That meant that the prices of the few remaining ones were kind of high, but I'd have been sorry if I hadn't gone for it. This was in August of 2010.
The M5G "Grand Master" came without a cartridge, of course, so I just pulled the headshell off the 1400 and plugged it onto the M5G, complete with M97 cart. I also pulled the vintage Platter Matter thick Sorbothane mat off the 1400 and put it on the new turntable. It's great that it's so easy to adjust the height of the tonearm pivot to suit mats of different thicknesses, as well as adjust the VTA as needed.
I didn't expect to hear much, if any, difference in the sound, but I was really mistaken. Even with the same cartridge, headshell, and mat, LPs played on the new 'table sounded much better, with more clarity and bass impact. This made me very happy, of course. Somewhat later, I took the new turntable to the local high-end audio shop, Sound Hounds, where I'd bought the cartridge, and they happily installed the cart in the M5G headshell and carefully aligned it, at no charge!
The new turntable has a different suspension system from the 1400, plus it has higher quality tonearm wiring. The speed control system is also improved. Those may sound like detail differences, but they add up to unmistakable improvements in the sound.
All that to say that you'll likely be very happy with your new "G" turntable when you get it. Sock those dollars away, or just go for it now, and pay for it later!
You're comparing apples to oranges
The SL-1200 Mk.II is a manual machine
Same family tree but definitely different machines altogether as well as decade(s)
There is also the possible variable of arm bearing condition etc etc etc between the used automatic deck and the (new) manual 1200
And you are correct, the stock signal cables were definitely improved upon
Most of the Mk.II model versions (with the exception of the 1200s) were plagued with tone arm and cue issues after some time had passed, especially the automatics
Technics started using a lot of plastic where metal had been before as well as upping the IC and switch counts
That's why I am reluctant to get into a comparison contrast
You cannot judge one by the other
Example: I "built" an SL-1300, first generation, for my Son that won't beat a 1200 Mk.II but it sure comes close to matching it
They all share common DNA but they ain't the same table
All of the SL-1200s are in a class of their own
Craig
-
8 hours ago, Ole Dollar said:
Speaking from the Chorus II prospective I would be inclined to purchase, if available from Klipsch, two replacement passives. I figure this is overkill but I will not be parting with them and the repaired passive would have me thinking about it every time I cranked it up. Yes I am being a little OCD here but if I only replaced one I would continually wonder if there was an imbalance. I have successfully repaired speakers with the methods above but my Klipsch are for critical listening so they get the best possible treatment. My .02 cents worth.
Passives are nothing but a means to box tuning bass propagation, same as a ported or reflex enclosure with a wee bit-o-assist with LF radiation
Moving a box with a passive 6"s in a room either way can change things (perceived bass) - or ANY speaker for that matter (captain obvious remark : - )
Unless two passives are manufactured very close together in a production run, I'd wager if you took two and properly measured them all else being equal, the results would come up different between the two - in a lab or an anechoic room
But you'll never hear it
Then there's the matter of if the passive is on the front or the rear baffle
You'll hear room placement before you hear the difference between a passive with a wound repair and one without
Now passives that come with a variety of mass weight or discs that could be another matter but it's also a different discussion as well as endeavor
But again, even then, it's back to specific box tuning and so a manufacturer, like JBL who loved using passives for a couple of decades, could employ the same FRAME and cone size in any number of boxes and not have to make half a dozen different ones
As well as allow customers (home builders) the ability to tune their own box designs
-
Think it best to not get into debating the merits, motives (or extolling the virtues) of the two in a forum setting
I only have to say if I had a Mk.II I'd purchased new in the condition yours is in I'd have no desire for the re-issue, even the new and improved "limited edition"
Allegedly, they only made 1200 of them, so if you're going to do it you better get busy!
I have a hunch, they've all been bought by now though, that or you'll be paying a lot more than Technic's original suggested retail for the machine
The "GR" version will probably be around for a while
My Son is currently stationed in Japan and the "GR"s are everywhere - not so much for the "GAE"
Good luck
-
Based on what I know about the new re-issue (anecdotal and first hand), you may want to just hang onto that one and spend your money on records
The only thing I find outstandingly good about it is it will play 78s
I think (my opinion) the Mk II was the best incarnation of the prosumer SL-1200 they made (and that covers a lot of territory) and on top of that one of the finest turntables ever made at any price, period
(note I said "one of" before the flamers and the pile ons start : - )
As for Technics pro decks, that's another conversation (I love them too!)
Keep it - all that glitters isn't gold
Craig
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, pat_in_dfw said:
Even if they have a finish it's not extremely difficult to sand them down to their natural state and restain with whatever you want.
Paint maybe but not stain or oil
Once they're stained or oiled you'll never see the beautiful White Birch again
-
52 minutes ago, pat_in_dfw said:
But dampening with water it is a pretty good idea as well.
Use isopropyl alcohol, straight
You want it damp long enough to reform if needed but you also want it to evaporate quickly
-
AND, don't be tempted to try and "brush" on the ink or dye - you can cause more harm than good to the texture of your cap or cone
You're not painting a house : - )
Just one light pass at the time and let it dry between passes
Light coats, as you also don't want anything wet getting down in the VC/former area (for active drivers obviously)
Can't emphasis this enough
-
49 minutes ago, pat_in_dfw said:
That is some amazing advice. To fix the tiny puncture I had thought about taking the passive radiator off and applying a tiny dot of super glue on the back of it and then smearing it around to make it even and hopefully the fibers would grab and mesh back together that way. But dampening with water it is a pretty good idea as well.
I didn't realize the dust cap was just an ink issue but I think trying that ink would work really well. My wife actually has some of that ink already because I have some black jeans that routinely fade over time and she'll wash them every five or six months with the ink in the washer to re-dye them.
Use a good PVA or aliphatic resin glue ("carpenters glue") , NOT super glue to repair a wound in wood pulp (or anything paper)
Super glue is not very good at all on paper (although I have seen some recently marketed as such, i.e. formulated for paper)
I personally, for a number of reasons, one being bad experiences, do NOT use ANY cyanoacrylate adhesive for a paper repair or glue job, regardless of what marketing claims may say
Use a good wood glue
The repair, if done right, will be as strong or stronger than the original spot
What you are describing is not ink, but rather dye
That should be fine too but it may not cover (hide) as well with a single application
If you do have to apply multiple coats GO SLOW and do NOT saturate your cap
Let things dry between coats until you get the color you want
Same applies for ink, as ink as well as dyes are not all created equal
-
1
-
-
Not a Klipsch item, but I am looking for an ancient Magnavox remote, model MER 061
Please PM me if you got and want to get rid of
Thanks
Craig
-
There is no need to add any mass if you don't need too
Just because an "option" exists doesn't make it a good one
WTB Heresy I HBR (pair)
in Garage Sale
Posted
Boy, I sure hope you don't have a job working in sales or acquisitions - especially if it involves someone else's money!
craigslist is different in every community across America, ESPECIALLY the ask and counter game
I live about 80 miles or so from this listing and have a hunch who it might be (don't know them personally but they've helped me in the past with some Fisher parts)
I've been a member of the craigslist community here in the Bay Area for so long now (regular, as in almost daily poster) that I frequently get emails (asking questions about equipment) from total strangers who address me BY NAME
At first freaked out, soon learned (and figured it out) they're regulars too and recognize my ad copy and know someone I either sold to or bought from
I have been using craigslist for more than 10 years now and paid 4 years of college tuition for one child thanks to it
So, don't assume anything about a game until you know a little bit about it, or make a deal no where near as good as you could have because of some self-imposed perceptions of how a particular seller, or market, works
Like I said, it's different in every town and with every seller
And for what it's worth, I cannot count the number of craigslisters I have emailed who were obviously oblivious to what it was they were selling
Giving a great deal of time to explain to them just exactly what they had and why they were hurting themselves
Often times being very valuable pieces that I couldn't afford
That, or ancient systems where they'd realize 10x the dollar amounts if they would break them down
(no, I do not promote cannibal flipping - just getting that pristine S8 load out of that ratty shit box grandpa built! ; - )
The "thank you!!!" "we sold on epay...." (or wherever), "and realized..................." emails that show up a month later are very rewarding
"we had no idea..............." those X.Y.Zs were worth THAT much money..................................."
"Thank you so much Craig for the heads up"
Done the same with too low "buy it nows" with epay sellers as well - that collection of thank you notes is very rewarding as well
Every seller is different every buyer is different - just be ethical about it you'll be just fine
And pay attention to the people - there is NO SHAME in a low offer to kick off a negotiation - NONE
Not good to be smug or arrogant when judging others based on zero first hand knowledge - not very attractive