Journey

Thought I would post some pix of the damaged caps in question ... Both these damaged caps measured in the very low pF's so were DEFINITELY pooched ... as one can well see

Hi Wayne ... Just placed my order with Digikey for a full recap and also the 4 330ohm resistors for the amp brd. I finally found the problem ... when I was removing components to get all that nasty glue removed. C2 and C51 ... those 2 105K 250 volt film caps on the primary side were in pretty bad shape. I was only able to see the obvious damage after I got the glue off and removed them from the brd. One cap actually swelled so bad the metal film inside oozed out the bottom and the other had a hole on one side where metal was visible. I hope the control board is still ok as I checked all but the driver IC so I think it may still be ok. So when those two caps go ... have you seen any other components go with them ? So far everything checks out ok ... no shorts ... no bad trannys or diodes ... fingers crossed. Another quick question ... have you done any work on other audio products other than Klipsch ? Duh !!! another quick Q ... For the full recap ... did you replace all the large voltage disk caps as well ? and the small ceramics ? I'm actually totally surprised to see these film caps shot ... never seen one go like this before this job ... in fact never seen one of these ever go bad in any audio equipment before ... very very odd ... maybe the voltage rating on them are too low ? Do you know how to say ENGINEERED OBSOLECENSE ??? Well under-rating a component would be one way to do it to be sure ... eventually it will fail and you just go buy a new box. The same could said for those 330 Homers on the amp brd ... they should been at least 3 or 5 watters for long life on that end of things.

Hi All Again ... Getting into more detail of my repair job on this RT-12D unit ... so far I have not been able find a damned thing wrong ANYWHERE ! I have checked for shorts and found none ... All diodes and transistors check out good as well ... no broken solder joints ... speaking on broken solder joints, in my experience on fixing subs ... a lot of them tend to shake themselves to death so one tends to end up looking for broken solder or main filter cap leads for the PS are broken or even in one case the internal guts of a cap were broken up. Saw this over and over with a set of Mackie subs I was constantly repairing when I was the house soundman. continuing ... ... removed the control board for the primary side and all components test good although I have no idea how check if the the half bridge driver is ok once the circuit is removed. Not sure from reading here what tends to go wrong with the control board. Did a really good going over of the amp brd and so far no issues there either. I'm almost out of ideas on this one at this point. I removed all and any glue that may have been causing an issue as well. I'm wondering if the brd with the DSP circuitry might be sending or receiving a protection shut down signal to the PS ? A schematic for this unit would sure help but so far it's been USE THE FORCE LUKE approach. I found a scheme for a different unit which is fairly similar BUT ... it's the RW-12 so the PS is somewhat different. Any ideas or help would be appreciated ... Journey

Hi Guys, New to the forum here ... A bit of an introduction would seem appropriate ... I am a musician of 45 years and have worked on a lot of audio gear ... I worked for 5 years at a medium sized electronics manufacturer in Canada (1996-2000ish) where I did a lot of troubleshooting on digital stuff and a bit of RF. Our company made the studio famous RADAR unit marketed and sold by Otari, 24 track digital hard disk recording unit. That company was Creation Technologies out of Burnaby BC. Since working there I have been working here and there mostly as a musician but of late posted an Ad on Kijiji and have been fixing lots and lots of different stuff. Lots of vintage keybrds and receiver/amp combo units. The next interesting item I have coming in soon is a vintage radio circa 1947 ... I have a drum machine from 1967 here s well that is still a problem ... someone tried to fix but made a real mess of it. So ya ... I have ZERO fear when it comes to taking on tough jobs and in many cases, I end up working for like 2 bucks an hr just to keep gaining experience on everything and anything that walks through my door. A lot of stuff that comes in the door is stuff where there are no schematics or service manuals ... and not many if any utube vids to provide any tips. So on many jobs ... I'm Luke Skywalker flying by the seat of my pants using the Force and my cheap Chinese made soldering equipment keeps failing ! Don'y buy from China !!! Actually I still do have a Chinese made hot air station that amazingly is still working ... thank GOD ! ... Unfortunately the highest temp is only 450C ... not quite as good as the Hakko units I had used at Creation Tech. I also had a kickass binoc microscope which would be REALLY nice now that my vision is totally screwed from actually using that microscope for the 5 years I worked at Creation. So I guess enough about my boring history ... I hope I can contribute here as much as possible even if it's not a Klipsch product and look forward to getting to know some folks here. I'm currently working on an RT-12D with no power issue. I saw the post bout the amp brd and the burnt resistors so to answer ... R100 and R101are Brown Black Silver Gold ( 0.1 ohm) The other 4 are Orange Brown Brown Gold ( 310 ohm ) ... I think ... The 2nd color band is very oddly faded on all 4 on my brd. Would have to remove one to make absolutely sure. After seeing another reply post on this subject ... it seems that they are 330 hohmers ... my 2nd color band(s) were quite unclear as to whether it was orange or brown ... so glad we could clear that up On another note does anyone actually have a schematic for the RT-12D PS/Amp ??? PS >>> Glad I found this Forum !!!