Greeting Klipsch Heritage DIY Enthusiasts,
I am struggling to understand the conversion of a tap cheat to the actual physical wiring to and from the autotransformer. For example if replacing a Universal Transformers T7A with a 3636 or 3619-ET, how does one use the respective cheat sheets to wire a crossover to provide the equivalent level of attenuation. I understand the physics with the windings, etc. but I do not understand the wiring shorthand. I am comparing Klipsch original crossovers, Crites versions and ALK versions.
1. I believe that the "0" tap is the common or ground tap
2a. For instance the following 3619 tap settings includes "X" and I don't understand how this factors into a wiring diagram. I do not see "X" as a tap option.
2b. How does one then wire the input and output to produce a -9 dB attenuation? Input at the "0" tap and output at the "2" tap?
2c. How would one wire for a -9.8 dB attenuation where the table indicates X-3?
3619 tap settiings.pdf
3a. The Crites 3636 Autotransformer includes "X" and "Y" taps in the chart. Now how does this work?
3b. Additionally there are two columns for the taps and I'm not sure how this translates to the 3619 Autotransformer
3636 Autotransformer.pdf
Finally,
4a. The T7A (I cannot locate a chart for this at the moment) will provide attenuation of -10 dB with the input at 5, output at 2, and the ground at 0 taps. With the component I have, it has leads only at these "tap" setting and no tabs, so am I assume this is fixed in the level of attenuation? (I will not ask about using an inductor here)
4b. The lead at tap 2 actually is two leads and on is common with the 5 lead and the other with the 0 lead. Why is this? In the crossover network both of the tap 2 leads are connected to the same solder point.
5. One last question: Is there a coating on the wire leads coming from the T7A autotransformer? I had to apply a solvent and a mild abrasive to them to solder and produce an electrical connection.
Thanks for the assistance,
Jeffri B