psykoticboss
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Posts posted by psykoticboss
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2 hours ago, AndreG. said:
I found myself in the same pinch as the OP about two years back. All the stuff i liked was above my budget. I talked to my local hifi-dealer and his advice was to go used. I don´t know if that is an option here, but if you don´t need the very latest features in your amp/ receiver... I got my Marantz that way and never looked back at wanting to buy new.
Just my two cents.
I think youre right. I found a like-new Denon AVR-X3400H I think I will go with it. It should give me plenty of power without having to worry about it.
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19 minutes ago, The History Kid said:
I think you are not thinking of integrated amplifiers in the way that they're designed by intention. Most 2 channel configurations would have speakers that are designed to be full range or capable of full-range delivery. Most of those amplifiers will cut at either 80 or 120 Hz as well. If your budget was $600 - you could have stepped up to the X series which has a bit more oomph.
DENON AVR-X1600H 7.2-Ch x 80 Watts A/V Receiver w/HEOS | Accessories4less
I will tell you, you're probably going to have to run your S750 to about 60 or 70 to really feel the heat. Those S models just lack so much in power. You may get it and be fine with it, but I think you'll find yourself second guessing rather quickly if you're so worried compared to the Yamaha that had much more power and was able to deliver it cleanly.
I get you. I mean the RP-600s go down to 45hz. But the sub guy was saying you don't want to push them that low. Thats a good deal on that denon. Is it really just going to be 5 more watts? Or is that receiver going to be noticeably better? I am open to recommendations. I had also looked at the Yamaha TSR-700 which is advertised 100 wpc. But people said the better build of the denon would actually sound better even though only 75 wpc advertised. Should I try to get that x1600? Or the yamaha maybe?
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1 hour ago, The History Kid said:
Can you link what you're talking about - which Yamaha model - because all of the Yamaha integrated amps and stereo amps I've seen have bass management right on the front panel. What kind of bass management are you talking about?
Yamaha S-501. I think you are referring to the bass tone control knob which raises or lowers the 'low frequencies'(doesn't specify what hz range) +/- 10db.
However, the bass management I am referring to is being able to set your mains to 'small' or set a crossover point where the mains can only play the mids/highs hz and the sub can handle all the lows.
Doesn't make sense to me why an integrated amp would have a sub out so they know you might plug in a sub, yet they still send, in my case the RP-600s, full range frequencies.
I listen to alot of EDM, dubstep, bass heavy music so I don't wan't to be sending the 600s tons of sub-bass notes 20-60hz at loud volumes. Causes amp to work way harder and it can also cause damage from over-excurting the driver. Although I loved the Yamaha, at the end of the day the tech rep at HSU where I got my sub really convinced me it was worth it to send it back and get a slight lesser receiver that would have all the features for EQ and bass management. It will also be nice to be able to fix the mid-range dip that is described in this review.
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/klipsch-rp-600m-speaker-review.12138/
I just hope it doesn't get here and is terrible compared to the Yamaha. I just want to run loud and clean without having to turn the knob a ton. I like the feeling of having alot of headroom in the amp. With the Yamaha S-501 I was only turning the knob 10-15%.
At the end of the day though my amp budget was $600 max after tax. So my options were limited. Could either get a really good integrated amp, or a mediocre/good AV receiver.
I also really really like the Marantz integrated amp line around 600. Looks very clean and exactly my style. But once again, no bass management. Must be easier said than done to integrate that feature into those models. So pretty much everyone who uses those, minus having an additional measure to block low hz to mains, are over-working their speakers, introducing un-needed distortion, and potentially damaging them if they listen to bass music at loud volumes. I think if your music choice didn't have a ton of bass, you would be fine with those options.
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14 minutes ago, willland said:
I know weight is not everything but the 7 channel Denon comes in at a weight of 19 pounds while the 2 channel Yamaha weighs 22.7 pounds.
Now that is out of the way.
The Denon should have settings where you can drive only the L-C-R.
Bill
Oh yeah I definitely will say the yamaha was awesome. I really wish these nice integrated amps had bass management especially if it has the sub-out.
I will try to get those settings hooked up and I think it should be good. If I was connecting 7 channels I might be more worried but hopefully the 3 will run nice.
Thanks as always Bill.
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20 minutes ago, The History Kid said:
Power supplies are not created equal. The supply in your R-S501 was designed to power 2 channels and 2 channel only. It also wasn't having to have a bunch of extra features on it to power and cycle thru. That system was designed to be a clean 2-channel driver. It will sound better, and handle better for 2-channel than a home theater system.
The Denon PSU's in the S series are relatively anemic considering the need. They need to power 5 channels, while handling video processing, surround processing, and everything else. Granted that everything else isn't always functioning, but if you're expecting it to somehow be better, you are going to be disappointed. It's not a bad system, but it's going to struggle in many areas. It might work for you, but it's very reasonable that it won't.
We shall see. Definitely not expecting it to be better. I really needed the bass management so hopefully thatll be worth it with the sub getting here. If its 75% as good as the yamaha ill be happy. And hopefully the 15" sub will provide the punch where the amp doesn't have those nice peaks.
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26 minutes ago, The History Kid said:
1. Receivers are smart enough in that if you send it a signal, it will output that signal as processing dictates. There's no real "being smart" about it. The demands generally are across the front three channels, so that's where most of the power would be drawn.
2. IMO, no. Not at all. The S series and the previous revisions lacked a lot when I ran them on even the most elementary Klipsch configurations.
3. Your understanding is correct, but generally where more power benefits you is those kicks to the chest, those explosions, the bass drum, etc. Where you'd really notice if the power wasn't there.
4. Not on a passive crossover with an AVR, no.
Man I hope you are somewhat wrong on #2. Plenty of people said it will handle those 3 Klipsch no problem. Gonna be pretty dissapointed if it gets here and doesn't do a good job. I just sent back the Yamaha S-501 and it powered them really well with only 85 wpc.
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In order to get bass management, I sent back the awesome integrated amp Yamaha S-501 and have a Denon AVR-S750H on the way.
It has great reviews, but only advertises 75 wpc 2 channels driven. I have a 3.1 setup with RP-600Ms(100/400) and RP-450C center(150/600).
I have a few questions :
1. Is the receiver 'smart' enough to send all of its power capabilities to the 3 channels? No bi-amping on the center channel.
2. Is the advertised 75 watts going to be enough? Subjective question but 'enough' in my eyes means being able to turn it up pretty loud, low or no distortion, and ideally still having alot of headroom. It will be worrysome if my desired volume is like 75% of the knob. On the 501 rated at 85 wpc, the RP-600s were super loud at 20% of the knob turned.
3. From the way I understand it doubling power means +3db pretty much. So even if I spent the money and got a 150wpc amp, I would only gain 3db? There is the argument that higher power amps play better at lower volumes, but being on somewhat of a budget I had to go with the Denon mentioned.
4. Is it worth it to bi-amp the 600s with the 4th and 5th channel on the receiver?
Thanks for the help as always!
Note: These are the Kanto stands, really happy with em!
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Okay so update I got back home and plugged the record player into my 600s. I am hearing the same really tweeters and the distortion. So that is being introduced by the record player.
I am going to take my grounding plates tomorrow and test out the 280FAs again with proper Klipsch grounding plates and a digital source to take record player out of equation.
Unfortunately the serial number checker is down on the klipsch site so no way to tell when they were bought.
I will update tomorrow.
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On 7/15/2021 at 4:46 AM, willland said:
Yes huge upgrade if not using a subwoofer. Not as much with subwoofer but still an upgrade.
In a small room, the RP600s/subwoofer may even image better.
In a large room with continuous high volumes(loud), a beefier amp may be needed to get the best out of the RP-280Fs.
Bill
Hey Bill!
Thank you for helping me. So I went and demo'd these RP-280F(actually ended up being RP-280FAs)..
At first we realized the jumpers were missing so I made some makeshift ones connecting the blacks to blacks and reds to reds on each speaker.
Also I was using a record player as the input so it may have caused some distortion.
However I got to say something sounded way off. It was like the tweeter was damaged? Or maybe the cables were messed up?
Not only did the sound not sound as clear as my bookshelfs, but the tweeters were making trumpets and voices sound very squeaky and like the voices had inhaled some helium if that makes sense. Definitely did not sound right. The woofers sounded alot more normal.
So with that being said it could be the record player, or it could be my makeshift jumpers, but does anything ring a bell for why they didn't sound as clear and why the tweeters were making the highs sound like that? I talked him down to 500 for the 280-fa pair and the rp-450C center. Awesome deal and they look cosmetically perfect. Hoping its something in the setup thats causing the issue.
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9 minutes ago, carlthess40 said:
I’m not sure. I’m seeing that I can buy new with free shipping for 399
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYeah that’s an awesome deal honestly! I’ll check on shipping I could probably do 300 shipped. Have the original box and still 3.5 years warranty.
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6 hours ago, carlthess40 said:
What’s shipping to deltona Fl 32725
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI will have to check options and let you know. I will avoid USPS and see what FedEx/UPS would cost. I’m guessing 50-100. What’s your cap on shipping?
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I have the Klipsch RP-450C Center channel speaker for sale. It is in perfect condition and still has the original box. Nothing wrong with it whatsoever.
-Raleigh, NC
-$250 price is firm.
-Let me know if you want it. Thanks.
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If I have the option of spending a little money and trading my 600s for a pair of RP-280Fs, is that going to be a huge upgrade thats worth it?
I do have a sub on the way, so my low end will be greatly covered(15" sub).
Is it still worth it to upgrade to the towers? Is there anyone here who would say the 600s + 15" sub is actually better? I do not want to spend money to downgrade.
For what its worth, I do like the look of the 600s on nice stands. Simple and elegant. But if yall say the RP-280 will sound WAY better, I may do the upgrade.
One last question, Klipsch site says underpowering can damage them. I have a Yamaha S-501 85 watts per channel. Is that plenty of power? Will it underpower the towers at all? They are 150(CONT) and 600(Peak).
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15 hours ago, garyrc said:
The sub looks great!
My view is based on both minimizing potential woofer damage (they are damaged by over-excursion as well as over heating voice coil), and on minimizing frequency modulation distortion (as long as the woofers are pumping in and out more than about 1/16" we would expect sidebands -- spurious frequencies added on to the music, sometimes discordant, usually degrading some clarity. Several speaker manufacturers try to ignore FM distortion, if their speakers pump too much, but it's there!
Here is an illustration of what can happen:
when two single tones are inputted to the same pumping loudspeaker cone. Part of the reason for the modulation is the mid and higher tones having to ride back and forth on a pumping cone, sliding its pitch up and down, producing Doppler Distortion, as in the famed Doppler effect of a train whistle approaching, then passing into the distance. In the upper graph we see the two tones that are inputted. In the lower graph we see the sidebands, as well, the false sounds that are generated by too great a cone excursion. In the case of your RP 600Ms, in which the woofer crosses over to the tweeter at 1,500 Hz (I think), something like this could happen if the two tones were 35 Hz and 900 Hz. If your Klipsch woofers were cut off (actually rolled off) at 80 Hz by an AVR, the sound could be appreciably clearer. In real music, there are many more original tones than two; there could be a very large number of sidebands. Now, how about the sub? It will pump! But, if it is rolled off at 80 Hz, there will be only a relatively minor frequency band for the pumping to form sidebands with, and they will be where the ear is a lot less discerning than it would be up where your Kilpsches are at work. So, keep the deep bass out of the Klipsches!
Just for ducks, here is a kick drum. As you can see, the two potentially loudest, potentially deepest on pitch, and potentially longest lasting zones are below 80 Hz. They should go through your sub and be mostly attenuated through your Klipsches.
Hey I had a question hopefully you might know. My receiver has a 'bass control' knob that the manual says it can 'increase or decrease the low frequency response. Control range : -10db to +10 db.'
When I adjust this knob I hear the bass go down quite a bit. The Klipsch advisor said maybe I could turn down this knob, then overcompensate by turning up the sub gain. Would this work well? From what I can tell the 600s would still be getting full range, but the low frequencies(I am not sure up to what hz range) would be lower volume to the mains, which theoretically could help mitigate the potential damage/distortion..what do you think? I think thats the best bass management I would get without sending back. I called today and would have to pay a $60 restock fee since I threw away the box.
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10 hours ago, garyrc said:
The sub looks great!
My view is based on both minimizing potential woofer damage (they are damaged by over-excursion as well as over heating voice coil), and on minimizing frequency modulation distortion (as long as the woofers are pumping in and out more than about 1/16" we would expect sidebands -- spurious frequencies added on to the music, sometimes discordant, usually degrading some clarity. Several speaker manufacturers try to ignore FM distortion, if their speakers pump too much, but it's there!
Here is an illustration of what can happen:
when two single tones are inputted to the same pumping loudspeaker cone. Part of the reason for the modulation is the mid and higher tones having to ride back and forth on a pumping cone, sliding its pitch up and down, producing Doppler Distortion, as in the famed Doppler effect of a train whistle approaching, then passing into the distance. In the upper graph we see the two tones that are inputted. In the lower graph we see the sidebands, as well, the false sounds that are generated by too great a cone excursion. In the case of your RP 600Ms, in which the woofer crosses over to the tweeter at 1,500 Hz (I think), something like this could happen if the two tones were 35 Hz and 900 Hz. If your Klipsch woofers were cut off (actually rolled off) at 80 Hz by an AVR, the sound could be appreciably clearer. In real music, there are many more original tones than two; there could be a very large number of sidebands. Now, how about the sub? It will pump! But, if it is rolled off at 80 Hz, there will be only a relatively minor frequency band for the pumping to form sidebands with, and they will be where the ear is a lot less discerning than it would be up where your Kilpsches are at work. So, keep the deep bass out of the Klipsches!
Just for ducks, here is a kick drum. As you can see, the two potentially loudest, potentially deepest on pitch, and potentially longest lasting zones are below 80 Hz. They should go through your sub and be mostly attenuated through your Klipsches.
Thank you very much sir for writing all this out. Very educational. That makes perfect sense that distortion would be introduced when the woofer is trying to play sounds on opposite side of its spectrum like 50 and 900. Unfortunately I threw away the box to my receiver but I am going to touch base with Crutchfield and see if I might be able to swap it out with a home theater one.
Although, I finally got to really crank the 600s today and they (to my ear) sound pretty solid even playing pretty loud bass tunes with them. Not sure if I am not hearing the distortion or if I have not reached that volume level yet. One thing I was considering is this receiver can only produce 85 watts per channel. The 600s are rated for 100 watts of continuous power and 400 at the peaks. Will this Yamaha S-501 even get close to closing in on the headroom of the 600s? I only have the dial turned about 20% and they are pretty dang loud. Would that mean they are only getting 15-20 watts? If I am way farther from damage than I think I am, I might have more than enough room without risking damage. Another reason I would really like a home receiver is so I can get that LFE sub channel for movies in 5.1 and make the most use out of the sub.
Anyways as you can tell I have been back and forth. Thank you for helping me understand the possibilities and what is going on behind the grill. Cheers.
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5 minutes ago, garyrc said:
Get an AV (home theater) receiver (they are sometimes called AVRs) and cross over from sub to main at 80 Hz. Then you can relax.
Since you tend toward being a bass-head, run your 15 inch sub few dB "hot," and consider putting it very near a corner. Your new receiver should be about 100 watts per channel; I assume the HSU has its own good amp built in to it. Which HSU (a good brand) are you getting?
Hello sir, I ordered the VTF-15H MK2, it is supposed to be their flagship model and has variable tuning. A real fun sub from what I have heard.
I think I might take you up on the advice to swap it for an AVR. You telling me to do that from a woofer damage perspective, distortion based, or what? I am not worried about power as they are so sensitive my receiver has plenty to power them even if the woofers are working hard as well.
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3 hours ago, wvu80 said:
Your original question was "what happens to unwanted frequencies?" The crossover converts the unwanted signal into heat where it's dissipated.
+++
I have the RP-600M. They work very well in 2.0 as-is with a nice full range sound. The crossover is designed to prevent the speakers playing so low that the signal could damage the woofers. Play them loud and proud, I think you'll like what you hear.
If you really want a nice sound for your EDM and other LF music pick up a subwoofer. I run mine in a 2.1 with an inexpensive Paradigm 10" sub, 250 watts. It's tremendous. You don't hear the sound from the sub but from the speakers. I use a simple 100 wpc mini-amp through my computer setup. If you want more then get a 12" or 15" sub. For your EDM type music, a bigger sub is better but don't be fooled, a ten inch sub sounds great with plenty of chest thump.
That's the 100 wpc mini amp/DAC on the far right of the first picture, displaying OPE, the SPDIF connection. Computer SPDIF -> mini-amp -> sub via high level inputs -> RP-600M via high level inputs
Thank you for the input man....I am leaning towards keeping the setup and not trading it in for one with crossover. I just don't want to damage the woofers is my main concern. I am not so much a hi-fi head where i couldn't deal with a little distortion. I guess my main question at this point is it worth it to send back the Yamaha S-501 to get a receiver with crossover abilities. If it's not then the Yamaha is a killer amp. I do have a HSU 15" sub on the way I am super excited for.
By the way you have a cool little setup going there. Looks like a great place to kick back. I bet we are similar in that we like to browse the web and have a game going at the same time. Keeps the attention satisfied. I have 20 more days free returns to decide on the receiver...decisions, decisions..you think the woofers will get damaged if I play them 7/10 loud with heavy bass music? Keep in mind my tastes are bassnectar, tool, bass based EDM, etc....
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6 hours ago, Peter P. said:
I'm gonna say "yes" to the OP's question, do they have to worry about low freqs below the low freq cutoff of the speaker damaging it.
If the amp is delivering a full range signal to the speakers and the speakers have no built-in high pass filter, they WILL try to reproduce the low freqs. At louder volumes, speaker damage will occur.
I did just that to a pair of bookshelf speakers with a 50Hz low end limit. I was playing bass-centric music with low frequency sweeps and such. I over-drove the speaker and the glue bond between the spider and the cone failed. Buzzzzt!
Parts Express sells pre-fab high pass filters you can put in-line to protect your speakers. I did just that for my Heresy's. I bought the filters closest to the Heresy's low end limit, put them in a small project box with input/output leads and run the low frequencies through a subwoofer.
I was checking out the website. Some users say it affects the fidelity quite a bit for the frequencies that are preserved..have you noticed that at all? Otherwise it seems like a good solution but I wouldn't want the sound quality affected..also there may be a high pass filter built into the RP-600Ms...it makes no sense why there wouldn't be unless Klipsch was skimping on costs..but that does not seem to be a concern with the 600s. Waiting to hear back from support.
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6 hours ago, Peter P. said:
I'm gonna say "yes" to the OP's question, do they have to worry about low freqs below the low freq cutoff of the speaker damaging it.
If the amp is delivering a full range signal to the speakers and the speakers have no built-in high pass filter, they WILL try to reproduce the low freqs. At louder volumes, speaker damage will occur.
I did just that to a pair of bookshelf speakers with a 50Hz low end limit. I was playing bass-centric music with low frequency sweeps and such. I over-drove the speaker and the glue bond between the spider and the cone failed. Buzzzzt!
Parts Express sells pre-fab high pass filters you can put in-line to protect your speakers. I did just that for my Heresy's. I bought the filters closest to the Heresy's low end limit, put them in a small project box with input/output leads and run the low frequencies through a subwoofer.
Man I have gotten equal amount of nothing to worry about and yes worry about it. I do plan on playing alot of bass music, EDM, hip-hop, etc...so I wonder if this filter is worth it or if I truely have nothing to worry about. I will be playing them loud but not insanely ear damaging loud. They are the RP-600Ms. Why wouldn't they add in a high pass filter to the speaker if they know it can only produce down to 45hz...
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23 hours ago, Islander said:
Thanks for the tips. I’ll check them out when I get a chance. Have you heard Garbage? They’re an American band, with a Scottish singer, Shirley Manson. Their best CD is Version 2.0. Nearly every song on there is great, and there’s lots of bottom end.
As for your sub, when you adjust its hi-cut (the point where its highest frequency will roll off), check the specs for your speakers, especially their lowest frequency, and set the sub to a point at least 20-30 Hz higher. This is because the speakers don’t cut off exactly at that point. Instead, the sound sort of tapers off. In the same way, the subwoofer tapers off at its top end. Because of that, you need some overlap to get a smooth handover from from speakers to sub, and going the other way, too. That’s how you get an even frequency response, from lowest bass to highest treble, with as few dips and peaks as possible.
Let us know how it goes when you get your sub and get it dialled in.
Thanks for the tips. I will definitely add that whole album and give it a listen through tomorrow.
The RP-600Ms allegedly go from 45hz+, so I am thinking about setting the sub to 80hz. I would like for it to do as much work as possible. Even though the 600s will be playing full range, I am hoping the sub volume will still be the main player in the low-mid/low region.
Will update once it gets here, about 2 more weeks since its coming freight! Super excited
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On 7/5/2021 at 7:40 AM, Islander said:
Don’t worry about it. Most speakers operate full-range, and many of them can’t reproduce the very low bass notes, or the very high treble notes. I think you may be confusing signal with power. Imagine that a signal is sent to a speaker, but it’s outside of the frequency range that the speaker can reproduce. It’s kind of like a music score being given to a musician, but there was a mixup, and he got the music for the string bass, while he plays the piccolo. He just can’t play it. In other words, nothing happens to the speaker. For another example, the tiny speakers on a smartphone or an iPad aren’t able to play bass notes, but you can turn up the volume as high as you like, without causing any damage.
In extreme cases, some heating of the voice coil may occur, but instances of inattentive music fans turning up the volume so high that the speakers eventually catch fire are extremely rare. Have you ever heard of it happening?
With my stereo, 1000 watts are available to each speaker, which are Klipsch La Scalas. Available is the key word. It’s not like the power amps are putting out their full power whenever they’re turned up. The La Scalas are rated for 100 watts max for continuous sound, and 400 watts max for peak (momentary) sounds. La Scalas don’t produce useful sound below about 50 Hz. When I’m listening to bass-heavy music, like by Billie Eilish, even at high volume, no harm comes to the speakers. I have subs running as well, but that’s separate from the main speakers. Another point is that Klipsch speakers are so efficient that they’re normally using very little power anyway. With the big Heritage Series speakers, they can produce volume levels that will send you out of the room while they are barely using any power, only a handful of watts. The only danger is from someone who is so out of it that they’re functionally deaf. If they decide to “see how loud this thing will go”, they could cause some damage, to their ears and to the speakers. This only applies to drastically overpowered systems, like mine and some others. With more typical systems, this is not a factor.
Why is so much power useful? Well, I like those amplifiers a lot, but they only came in one model. That one model was designed to drive any speaker they were connected to, no matter how inefficient they might be. Very few speakers are as efficient as most Klipsch speakers. Some need a lot of power before they start sounding good. These amplifiers sound great; they can let any speakers accurately reproduce drumbeats and other transient sounds, so that it can sometimes sound like a real drummer is playing in front of me. To be honest, I only turned the volume up that high once or twice. It hurt my ears!
Happy listening to your Klipsch speakers, and welcome to the Forum!
1000 watts per channel! Holy cow. I am not going to worry about it. Once the sub gets in I am going to dedicate some listening time where I really turn them up and have fun with them. And not to any levels where I will have hearing damage. Just nice and loud. Thanks for your input and sharing your system. I have not heard of the La Scalas but I am going to look them up!
Check out bassnectar sometime! My favorite artist although hes been involved with some drama lately. What artist hasn't. His bass music however is top notch. Listen to divergent spectrum and freestyle albums.
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9 minutes ago, DirtyErnie said:
I have a Sony receiver, you can set the 'size' of the speakers.
'Large' speakers get full-range.
'small' speakers can have a crossover frequency assigned, a built in hi-pass.
Maybe yours has something similar?
Got the manual?
Sorry, TL;DR most of the thread. 😉
Im guessing that is a AV receiver. I looked through the manual and searched online it looks like there is no way to do it. It does attenuate any signals above 90hz that get sent to the 'sub-out', but it looks like I will be stuck with the RP-600Ms getting full range signals.
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23 minutes ago, DirtyErnie said:
KT88 hits it on the technical side.
Here's the easier explanation:
Those speakers are bass-reflex (ported).
They can only reproduce sound down to the port tuning frequency.
Any frequency below that will just end up flapping the speaker cones around with no resulting sound.
This flapping causes a great deal of modulation distortion in the frequencies the speaker can reproduce.
If you can, run a sub with those speakers, set to cross over at 60-100Hz. That will clean up a lot of intermodulation hash.
Hey man, not sure if you were able to read all my stuff(I know its alot), but I don't have a way to set my crossover on my Yamaha S-501. My sub is in the mail, and it has its own crossover, but no way to prevent the speakers from playing full range. Any ideas? Or I am going to have to deal which this flapping/distortion you are talking about. I don't get why the didn't make the amp where if it recognized a sub was plugged in, it would only send 100hz and up to the mains since its sending 100hz and below to the 'sub-out'.
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6 hours ago, KT88 said:
I am not so sure if all normal radiator cone speakers are protected as described here. The fact that you don't hear deep bass from a small speaker doesn't mean that the excursion of the diaphragm doesn't take place.
Even if you don't destroy the bass driver yet, it produces more distortion and unwanted Doppler effects in the higher audible frequency range when it makes strong excursions in the deep bass where you can't hear it anymore.
This can be especially dangerous with bass reflex speakers if the cone below the tuned resonant frequency no longer has an air suspension that would brake the excursion of the cone.If you want to enjoy the advantages of a subs, it makes sense that the bass cone of the speaker gets a lowcut. Modern small amplifiers such as the PowerNode from Bluesound automatically build in a low cut which you can select in frequency if you select the option with sub.
For normal listening levels nothing will happen to the speaker, just like without sub. But it is an advantage to use a low cut when using subs.
I saw that powernode version that had some bass management. Although the S-501 that I got is a great amp it doesn't offer that. So I will set the sub somewhere around 50-80hz and they will have to share that 45-80hz range of frequencies. I guess I will just make sure nothing is sounding 'off' or distorted and if it sounds fine it probably is fine. It is under warranty after all. Thanks for your input.
Is 75 Watts enough for RP-600Ms and RP-450C? Denon AVR-S750H
in Home Theater
Posted
I am in Eastern NC. Zip code 27504. Would you want to sell it? What would you give it to me for?
That thing looks like it would be awesome for my setup.