I have owned the Synergy F1 speakers and the Reference 62. When I got the 62's I gave the F1's to my mother.
My 62's got stolen with the rest of my gear at the time. I now have the F1 speakers back after my mother passed away. When I first bought the F1 speakers I had a Firestone Audio Tube Head mini preamp. It had dual OPAMP dip sockets. I bought the best OPAMPs I could think of which were 2 National Semiconductor LM4562NA for $5 each. They ran at 55mhz which was much faster than cheaper ones that were 10-15mhz. They had a signal to noise ratio exceeding 120db. My favorite OPAMPS of all time. The Tube Head had a separate power section with a mini Toroidal transformer. At different times Hi-Fi companies offer more bang for the buck than others. In 2008 I bought the Rotel RB-1050 power amplifier brand new for $427 after tax. It had a huge Toroidal transformer with a rating of 70 watts RMS per channel at 8 ohms. And 140 watts RMS per channel at 4 ohms. The RB-1050 also had a dampening factor of 500 with an almost perfect signal to noise ratio of 116db. I have never seen any other amp come close to it in terms of bang for the buck. They have one that they sell now whose specs are less and it cost $1,400. Then I had a $250 Monster Power current filter which made an awesome difference in the sound as it sounded much cleaner without the harshness. So I have tried tons of brands of cables with varying levels of quality, awg, and electromagnetic interference rejection as well as shielding. When you test the different cables on a system like the one I built you notice how well higher quality cables sound against the cheap pin thin ones with no sheilding. I have tried single wire speakers and the Bi-amp/Bi-wire speakers. I tried 2 sets of Original Monster cable 10 awg. I tried one. I tried 2 sets of 14 awg Monster cable XP with the magnetic flux tube. The magnetic flux tube does what it claims and takes the harshness out of the sound. So the 14awg XP with magnetic flux tube sounded better than the 10awg Original. I did 2 single Z series with Bi-wiring and thought those would sound better than the $260 all in one Bi-wire cables. I was wrong! The all in one Z series Bi-wire cables blew everything else out of the water. They sounded better than Bi-amping. The point of high quality cables is to maintain signal integrity while rejecting noise and interference. It truly makes a difference as every detail is heard and the depth of the sound stage as well as imaging become so real. The power output and dynamics are then distortion free without limits. When it comes to wanting your system to sound it's best you have to maintain the same exact quality in the chain of your equipment. It is like upgrading your crossovers with only half of the caps being top of the line and have the other ones being half of the quality of the TOP. And an inferior type. Why would anybody want that kind of mismatched parts and lack of sonic consistency? I see people blaming their lack in desirable sound on the quality of the speakers themselves. Think about a water pipeline. You want the exact same size pipe from start to finish. The one thing that everyone overlooks is a consistent level of quality in cable awg and material type. Did anyone wonder why a speaker says 8 ohms compatible? That is because the speaker isn't 8 ohms, but running it that way is less than ideal and you won't achieve the speakers true potential in terms of frequency response and true power output and dynamics. Every speaker that said the words 8 ohms compatible I tested with the jumpers on or off at 4 ohms or less. 4 ohm speakers are better because you can dump twice the continuous power into them with equipment made to handle a 4 ohm speaker. The awg and quality as well as type of cable going from the crossovers to the drivers and tweeters should be the same as the cables coming from the amp to the crossovers. When I got my Synergy F1 speakers the highs were harsh and the mid/bass drivers sounded awful. I could only turn the volume to the 9 o'clock position and a hair higher as the mid/bass drivers would bottom out clanking and popping really loud. I had my Z series all in one Bi-wire cables in use and the F1 speakers sounded as bad as the pin thin stock wires on the crossovers that were restricting power flow and distorting the signal. They lacked in clarity, detail, sound stage, imaging, bass, power output, and dynamics.
I took off the stock wire on the crossovers and had to dremel the holes on the crossover boards to fit the 14awg Monster Cable XP with that magnetic flux tube that helps the smoothness of the sound as well as bass. That is exactly what is in the all in one Bi-wire cables. So now I could turn it from the 9 o'clock position to the 2 o'clock position without limitations in all of the above mentioned shortcomings. Another thing that I do after making the F1 speakers sound better than my $1,200 Polk Audio LSi9's is strategically place the polyfil just right which takes a lot of experimenting and reopening of the speakers to make the Mids and bass sound their best. The resistance also went from 4.4 ohms to 3.7 ohms resting impedance. Always buy 4 ohm stable gear and know that Bi-wire speakers with those type of cables blow away single wire post speakers. Now it is time to mod the crossovers with Mundorf capacitors! Btw, Monster Cable is the best bang for the buck cables out there and you get what you pay for. All other cables I have seen claim to be better and are not as they even cost more lacking the level of quality and tech Monster Cables have as they have been in business longer and were able to spend the money on perfecting high quality cables and machines that could mass produce them at a higher level of quality. Thank you for your time!
