dom

New speakers fit in nicely and also sound good. Obviously, the deeper frequencies are still missing. 🥲🥲🥲 I also guess that Klipsch built that frequency divider / (passive) crossover exactly for that combination of speakers. 🤔 I also have a few questions to the people here that are actually knowing what they're doing regarding building loudspeakers and so on ... (what I cannot tell from myself). What's the purpose of that foam inside the speakers? I've read something that this should have an effect of "virtually increasing the room" inside the speakers, but I cannot really follow / imagine how this should be possible when actually decreasing it? With the adjustments I did, do you think I should try to remove it, or remove a bit of it? Do you think that would make the sound worse or better? Can you even tell that in advance? Guess this loudspeaker room/chassis/foam setup is a tested and calculated thing especially for the combination of the (original) components? 🤔 Also, do you have any suggestions regarding a subwoofer for the outside? That's not really just a garden but a kinda big place with a view down to the valley, so there's nothing that would reflect the bass back. I was thinking of combining my two (or four 😅 now) AW-650s with some kind of a 18" PA subwoofer? Something like that: https://www.thomann.de/at/the_box_pro_dsp_18_sub.htm Or do you think that's a bad combination and know something different / better? 🤔 Thanks in advance and greetings from Austria, Dom.

Adjustments I did was to shorten the M4 screws further down to be able to install some distances with M4 threads to be able to screw the new chassis down. Also needed to prepare the housing and the new chassis a bit to fit in.

Hello community! I bought a new pair of Klipsch AW-650 about a year ago, and directly damaged them on the second party in my garden. (Note: I need to buy some subwoofer, the mids and highs of the AW-650 are fantastic, but I miss the lower frequencies with them.....) They're driven by my Yamaha A-S701 amplifier. Because I missed the deeper frequencies a bit, I played around with the bass and loudness controls on my amplifier until I was kinda satisfied with it. Unfortunately it seems that I've turned the volume then up too high and suddenly all two speakers (low/mid range chassis) stopped working simultaneously after a few minutes. I've sent it back to my supplier to check if that's some case of warranty, but they told me that such a thing cannot be handled with the device warranty, therefore I've bought two brand new ones and in the meantime I've ordered new speakers for the two damaged AW-650 speakers. Unfortunately, I could not find any datasheet (practically I was not able to find any data about the loudspeakers that are installed in them). Therefore I thought - I will just order something that I think might be appropriate. My eyes fell on a "LaVoce WAF061.80", which I finally ordered. Details can be found with the following link. http://www.loudspeakerdatabase.com/LaVoce/WAF061.80 Quickly I've realised that the M4 screws inside are too short for my new speakers, so I needed to adjust some things to fit them in. The attached pictures shows the original chassis with the mentioned M4 screws, and the new LaVoce woofer.

@beerguy thanks. Once desoldered I could see that it's a 820 Ohm resistor. What I can tell from that now: (dE)-112SW => 680 Ohm R-115SW => 820 Ohm I replaced all THT mounted non-bipolar electrolytic capacitors on the board (did miss that there are bi-polar ones when ordering the components 🙈) with higher-voltage-class ones (and all of them with 105 degrees celsius temperature class - there is enough room for that...) and I've replaced the original 820 Ohm (3 Watts?) resistor that obviously got very hot with one with a one that's a "bit" bigger (50W, mounted on the back-plate) 😅. Also, I've replaced the TIP31C transistor that is directly beside the "hot" resistor and gave it some clothes to cool down. This thread was very helpful to me, thanks for sharing that infos guys! And yes last but not least... It works again! 😃 🤘🤘

My R-115SW also powered itself off after some minutes. Also have the same problem, the resistor is dead, and the 330uF cap in front of it does not even have its "clothes" on, so could just state it's a 330uF because of your pictures. My board is from 2016 according to the printing on the PCB. Also, I can't really say which resistor it is, it's too dark already 😅. I assume that's a 820 Ohm resistor, according to some pictures which have been posted here? I also saw some other sources that put in a 620 Ohm resistor. I really can't read the color rings on mine anymore. Maybe someone from here can confirm to me if it's a 620 or 820 Ohm resistor? That would be really helpful! I've ordered some capacitors, all with 105 degrees celsius temp and all with a higher voltage class too - hopefully I will be able to fit them onto the board, with some distance to the PCB itself... and I've ordered a 50 watts 820 ohm resistor - can cope with way too much power than actually needed, but these are just a few bucks difference. I hope the PWM controller is not damaged. And I also was not aware of these clicking sounds before! Fingers crossed, and I will keep you updated with some pictures once I get the parts, hopefully I'll get it to work normally again.