izmasterzvois

Sorry for this long delay. I'm still waiting for my military-grade components. I'll make proper filters then. My friend saw there was a small hole in a solder joint. So I did it again and it works, ans now I enjoy the music. In the meantime, I've built speaker cables too, and the result goes far beyond my expectations (6 braided pairs of Teflon insulated Cu with Ag coating per run, in bi-cabling configuration. A PITA to build !) . Compared to my older bi-cabling with Monster-like cables, it's like my amp's power has been multiplied by 3 ! Everything is much much better ! I recommend this to everyone.

That's true, I didn't match the equivalent series resistance of the (selfs = )inductors, but I took care that the new ones are less resistive than the stock ones. As far as I know, this can only improve the slam of the bass, all else being equal. I knew it was due to the bad soldering, simply because a friend saw it, ans as soon as I resoldered this one, from unbearable,the sound became very good. I am waiting for oil paper and Teflon caps now.

That's true, I didn't match the equivalent series resistance of the (selfs = )inductors, but I took care that the new ones are less resistive than the stock ones. As far as I know, this can only improve the slam of the bass, all else being equal. Compared to the non modified speaker, the bass is greater, but only slightly more precise. I knew it was due to the bad soldering, simply because a friend saw it, ans as soon as I resoldered this one, from unbearable,the sound became very good. I am waiting for oil paper and Teflon caps now.

That's true, I didn't match the equivalent series resistance of the (selfs = )inductors, but I took care that the new ones are less resistive than the stock ones. As far as I know, this can only improve the slam of the bass, all else being equal. I knew it was due to the bad soldering, simply because a friend saw it, ans as soon as I resoldered this one, from unbearable,the sound became very good. I am waiting for oil paper and Teflon caps now.

That's true, I didn't match the equivalent series resistance of the (selfs = )inductors, but I took care that the new ones are less resistive than the stock ones. As far as I know, this can only improve the slam of the bass, all else being equal. I knew it was due to the bad soldering, simply because a friend saw it, ans as soon as I resoldered this one, from unbearable,the sound became very good. I am waiting for oil paper caps now.

Hello, I've solved my problem. It was just a badly soldered cap. Well, the replacements I've made work ! And dramatically indeed ! The transparency has made a huge leap from top to bottom, without affecting the overall equilibrium (I made the changes on one speaker only, so that I can always compare). In fact, I've put the bass part of the crossover outside (it's separate from the rest) the speakers and the bass cables run through the big holes at the bottom. This leaves some space for the new components. The components for the woofers are the black box (with crappy caps to replace inside) and the long ferrite self. That's it ! So unsolder the black box, and use the biggest self that matches 1.75mH (1.7 or 1.8mH are fine). Very large ones are important for an interesting improvement. Then resolder them in the same config as it was. Here it goes for the bass: +W1---/--- self 1.74mH --- +LIN +W2---/ /____ black box ____ -LIN / / -W1---/-------------/ -W2---/ For the medium/tweeter, it's slightly more complex and I couldn't figure out very well how the square self is wired. I've changed the yellow caps with big SCR with tin foil, but I plan in replacing them with large paper in oil caps. I will also change the 2 resistors that go to the tweeter (T+) with Philipps PR02.

Hello, Who is Trey ? I'm affraid I can't call him easily, I live in France, but any advice can help. I must precise that there was a hint of improvement in the body of the music. If it weren't for all the ugly distortions, it would be a big improvement, but as for now, it's a huge step backwards, so I've put the original selfs back.

Hello, I need some help. After having replaced 3 caps by tin polypyp SCR equivalents, I've gained a little bit in the bass (more present, but not necessarily more detailed ). No improvement in the treble and midrange. I've bought two supposedly high quality ribbon selfs from Jantzen (www.jantzen.com). They look very nice, they are long ribons of thin copper very tightly wrapped around a wood core, and maintained by a strong plastic enclosure. I've tried to replace two of the 3 original selfs from my KLF20 with these, and the result is simply catastrophic. The sound is similar to that of old speakers that you buy for 5 bucks.It sounds restricted, bloated, undetailed, horribly coloured from top to bottom, just plain wrong. Yet, there seemed to be an increase in "fullness" in the midrange, although it was heavily distorted. The original 0.174mH 0.9 ohm was replaced by 0.18 mH 0.13 ohm. The 1.75 0.8 ohm mH was replaced by 1.8 mH 0.48 ohm. As I'm not a specialist, I don't understand what's wrong. Shall I add series resistors with the Jantzen or unroll the selfs in order to get the exact previous values ? Any help ? Thanx

Ok, I managed to have some visible caps and selfs measured. As suspected, these are all very low quality parts. Selfs: - the long one with a metal core : 1.75 mH - the small air self : 0.175 mH - didn't measure the large square one. Caps: - the two yellow caps in the middle (C3, C4): 2.89 uF - the smaller yellow one : 1.09 uF (although it is rated 1.25 uF 5%) I will replace the caps with SCR polyprop with tin 3%, and the selfs with Jantzen selfs. There are other parts to exchange like the caps in the black box. I hope I can get rid of the brilliance in the upper mids, gain some finesse in the treble and maybe some impact in the bass with these changes.

Then this forum is a madhouse.

Thanks, I actually wanted to improve things by myself by simply replacing some parts with better ones with the same values and at least the same tolerances. The parts in the KLF series'crossovers seem to be (very) low-grade parts and they could be easily replaced. But I still need the schematics, as the values seem to be written nowhere on the existing parts, which is quite frustrating.

Hello, Ther are lots of posts about upgrading the Heritage speakers' Xovers, but not the Legends'. I've looked at my speaker's Xover, they look cheap, but there are no values in sight, so that I'm completely clueless. So my questions are : Does anyone have the schematics of the KLF20's Xover ? Can I improve them without impairing the tonal balance and if yes, how? (I precise I can solder) (ALK ?) Thanx in advance for help.

Spike (tighter bass), biwire (better mids and highs, open up the stage) first. Then put a lot of plasticine on the external of the horns. It damps the horns (made of platic, which is not very good ) and thus improves the quality of the mids. Maybe next, I'll do some internal rewiring with high quality wire (teflon insulated silver or something more usual ?), and replace some parts of the cross-over. But I would NOT change the design itself, just improve the parts.

Hello everyone, I would like to know whether it is possible to improve the cross-over of the KLF20 (Legend series), and if yes, how ? Thanx.