DerHouy

@eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week.

@eduardofsjr Had to give the sub back, wasn't mine. I could test it in a week.

I just fixed the broken pads "as good as I can as an beginner" and the sub works again. I replaced one of the big main caps (because it was broke), and the3 capacitors shown in the picture. Because I switched one capacitor before the 16v 330uf, I guess it was the 16v 330uf one, who was broke. One more question, the dark lines are the real connections, right? Because I scraped it off a little bit on the broken one to get a connection to the copper underneath. Thanks so far guys, at least it works again. Hopefully I did everything right and the broken pad isn't connected wrong now xD

Wow thank you very much, that took time to answer in such a manner. I really appreciate your help and informations. You guys are great. C83 just does beep and has 0 resistance when testing, C84 and C85 both have 2.3k Ohm and don't beep. If the guides out there are right, the caps should be fine. Tested them outside the board with the resistance mode, the guide said, if it loads up in resistance mode and goes to infinity they should be fine. I hope that's right. The voltages are fine on the amp board. I have the 5v, -15/15 and the 60 volts. The smartphone with the thermal camera from my gf shows it's hot around the area of On/Of/Auto and Gain knobs, but it's very broad. It doesn't show specific values nor the exact area. I wasn't able to get new caps yet. Looks like I need to buy stuff for 50€ on DigiKey to get all the stuff. Because otherwise I pay about 18€ for shipping only :d Edit: Okay, I guess desoldering the 16v 22uf or (220uf)? wasn't a good idea because I destroyed the port and a little bit of the line on the upper side xD Will try to find a repair cafe near, before I do even more damage. Soldering/Desoldering lead free is hard. I remember it was much easier with lead =/ Theoretically if I make the red outline blank that the copper shows up again, I could put solder on it and connect it to the other side right? Thank you @Roamin and all of you.

Thanks @Rossi32s and @Roamin I'll try that. Thanks for all the information and help. @Roamin It does constantly beep with probes reversed too. I haven't measured the voltage because I got no real tools, only a multimeter without capacity test. I'm also a very beginner, I just watched tons of videos and tried to use the short circuit method and resistance to find bad stuff. Would try the voltage but seen so many people saying I shouldn't if I don't have proper equipment for safety.

@Roamin Oh man I got the SPL-120. I hope it's not the thing you described on my one. What did you pay for this stuff?

Hi folks, I got an SPL-120 very similar to these r115-sw ones. The problem is hearing heartbeat every 2-3 seconds with a moving membrane without any signal providing. I simply plug it in and it starts doing that pop sound. I switches the main capacitors, because one on the main side was leaking but still the same problem. I just tested the small capacitors directly under the minus-speaker-pole and there are C83/84/85. C83 does a beep sound on my multimeter, ther other 2 not. Can this be the problem? Every other capacitor looks fine. What capacitor is C83 if it's broken? What do you guys think?