GburgAdress

I want to also add my voice to everyone here who has thanked Sixer for starting this thread, and to the Cinema 600 owners who joined in to include and clarify the experiences they had with our version of the soundbar. We purchased the Cinema 600 just over 3 years ago. Last month we had the exact same symptoms that have been described here, the audio getting a little static-y, followed by problems powering up and then the lights not coming on and then getting that one red light before the next time after that trying to turn it on and kaput... nothing. A quick internet search brought me to this thread, I read through it, and even though I have absolutely no electronics experience and am not a DIY'er at all, the postings in this thread gave me a clear enough vision and the confidence to tackle the task of retrieving a hardly-ever used set of gifted allen wrenches, disemboweling the sound bar and replacing that good-for-nothing ETOP power supply (although okay, it did make it through 3 years of not very heavy use). Like most here, I got the NOYITO replacement for $15 off Amazon (only 1 left in-stock the last time I saw about 5 days ago, must be a lot of us replacing Klipsch soundbar power supplies). Long story short, my replacement worked, my soundbar is back in business, I am bragging to everyone who listens about my newly acquired electronics skills, and I am grateful to all here who shared. I also did splurge and got an inexpensive multimeter/voltmeter. That came in handy to verify, before unplugging, snipping wires and removing the ETOP, that yes, had 120V AC going in, had 24V DC coming out on the larger output wires, but only had about 3V coming out on the smaller output wires. It also helped me verify the outputs on the new power supply, that as described elsewhere here as you are looking at it from that output side, 24V are the two on the left and 5V are the two on the right. It also verified for me that the NOYITO was marked correctly, with the two positive outputs being on the far left and right of the four, and the two negative outputs being the two in the middle. I can also add to the verification that for my Cinema 600 for the smaller 5V wires, white was GND, black was VDD and red was SBY, and I twisted the VDD and SBY together onto the +5V output of the new power supply. Now, yes, the NOYITO is about the same width, but shorter in length than the ETOP, and the metal heat sink grates, which are bigger and placed differently on the circuit board, don't seem to easily allow you to use one of the existing mounting holes in the soundbar backplate. I see here that some people have drilled new holes in the backplate to mount. I did not find that convenient for my 600, so I just have my replacement power supply sitting unmounted in there. The heat sinks do lay against the inside of the casing, but so far, the area has only felt tepidly warm to me. If that turns out to be an issue down the road, I would have to go back in there and figure out how and where to drill a new mounting hole or holes and get it to slide in and fit in there mounted to the backplate given that the size and orientation of the heat sinks make that harder to do. So, thanks again to Sixer and everyone here. This fix worked for my Cinema 600 soundbar. If Klipsch is smart and monitoring this, I want them to know that their reputation for quality has taken a hit with me. Being 3 years out, I did not choose to call them. But, it would have gone a long way with me if I had seen on their website a troubleshooting description of all of this, an acknowledgement of the customer experiences with these ETOP power supplies, and the offer of an inexpensive replacement that would include detailed and easy-to-follow instructions for doing so. In my book, that would have really set them apart in my eyes and gone a long way to enhance their reputation with me and win me over as a loyal long-term customer.