lazee Posted August 15, 2009 Share Posted August 15, 2009 ok after my din plug broke i tried the diy fix. It didnt appear to work because my volume knob still worked backwards and i got very low volumes and no power led. I decided to order a brand new control pod from klipsch and still same problem so i guess this pretty much narrows it down tho the sub. well my question is which screws do i have to remove to get the amp out. So far iv'e removed the 8 screws around the edge and it still wont come out. what other screws do i need to remove. also would i be able to return this product to have it repaired by klipsch? and how much would this cost? i'm just about to give up on these $150 speakers. great sound, horrible craftsmanship =( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbya10 Posted August 16, 2009 Share Posted August 16, 2009 There are 8 screws in the rear to remove. Don't remove any further in than the edges. Lift the back out. Disconnect the woofer. Then the circuitry will be available to service. Remove the power supply, it is full of gunk, but don't let that bother you. Take a jackhife and dig the stuff off the panel. After you get the power supply loose from the rest of the amp. Look straight down at the circuit board. You will see a fried resister R120. The value of the resistor is 1000 ohms. I had the same problem but I had no 1000 ohm resister so I put a 1200 ohm/1watt unit in. Be very careful to not lose the 2 screws and nuts that hold the output transistors to the back panel. Also try not to wipe any of the white goo off the back panel and the 2 power transistors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
budunski Posted September 19, 2009 Share Posted September 19, 2009 Hi! new to this forum as of today!. No knowledge at all about this stuff.Thanks to you and everyone else in advance for sharing your knowledge. My pro media 2.1 left channel is out, so Im attempting to disassemble to take a look. anyway checked the fuses and looks ok. Is the power supply the big heavy unit that sits inside. looks like theres 4 nuts to remove? Anyway 2 of those nuts look like they are kine of hard to get to. I think I can get them off, but how about putting them back on? How do you hold the nuts to get them back on? I guess once you have that big heavy unit out, it looks like it would be easier to take a look. Anyway I see 2 boards that look exactly the same and all the numbers start with 3 one one board. and with 4 on the other. They each have a fuse. Would they be for left channel/right channel? After taking a long look. I didnt exactly see anything burnt or obvious, there might be a little darkness on the inner board down by R309 - R311, cant really tell, because its the inside board. Do you happen to know which one is left and which one is right, that is if it works that way?. Sure I have a bunch of other questions, but I just better take it step by step. Thanx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-Ram Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 Budunski, Far from a pro at this, but there are indeed three (what appear to be identical) boards inside. One each for left, right and then sub. Sub is easily identifiable as the output wires run directly from that board to the subwoofer itself. The other two, in a different location and side by side, I don't know of a way to distinguish between left and right except to remove the fuses from those boards one at a time and see when your "Right" signal is lost. Then the other one is "Left". I assume you have checked the fuses on each of those boards? From what I have read here in the past, Left channel not working usually turns out to be a faulty connection in the DIN plug going from the control pod to the amp. A user named "mister_clean" offers the service to repair/replace this faulty connector. I think he used to offer for sale a do it yourself kit to make same repair. Comments have all been positive. Hope this helps! Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jak87216 Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 Hi Im having the same issues with my speakers... COuld you let me know how the 1200 ohm/1 watt worked and also do you happen to know what ohms the R107 slot is??? Both my R120 and R107 resister are burnt up so i cant tell the colors on either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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