Synchromesh1 Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 Hi, This is my first post here! I have a set of Klipsch 5.1 Pro Media Ultra speakers I bought a while ago. Recently the satellites stopped working, all 5 of them. The subwoofer still works but satellites don't. On occasion they will start working after being turned off for a while but after about 5-7 mins they'll stop working again. They also gained a little bit of intermittent static which I think is connected because I haven't heard it before this problem started. After doing some research it looks like there is something warming up in the subwoofer. I took it apart but couldn't find anything specific broken. The control pod looks fine and I don't think it's the culprit. Any ideas what the issue might be and what the fix is? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcigg Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Open it up and be sure to check the board for burnt components especially near the transformer and on the mini board to the right of the transformer. Most of my components were burnt on that board. I literally have replaced about 30 different components because they were burnt or looked burnt. All of the components were replaced with higher rated components. Diodes that can handle more current, bigger wattage resistors that were fireproof etc.... I had something similar but mine was more of muffled sound then hiss. I replaced all 3 tall caps to the left of the transformer. I think they were 1000uf. Then I replaced all 4 transistors next to it. D510, etc... Problem went away. Unfortunately a few years ago klipsch went thru and started deleting all the threads with fixes so I don't have any part numbers I can give you for parts. It sucks and yes this is a known failure with these speakers, but they truly are the best sounding speakers I have ever owned. I can try and see if I still have any info on part numbers in a word document somewhere if you need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcigg Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Heres some stuff I copy and pasted from a word document I found on my computer. This may be of help to you. Towards the bottom there is a parts list of all parts that commonly fail. I replaced every component on the list as well as a few other components and mine works like new. Any questions feel free to ask. My 2 year old Ultras just stopped working yesterday. I readall the information here and on other sites. Some misinformation exists andother information is not available. I called Klipsch Support this morning and they were very sorry and veryhelpful. Unfortunately my unit is out of warranty and this is what they said. One Year warranty on ProMedia Ultra 5.1 First Step: Check the power fuse.......... Behind subwoofer, remove panel with all connections… (the Amp module). 12screws............. Carefully pull panel out via top left corner and bottom rightcorner................ You will feel resistance as wires are pulled. Ease it out carefully and thendisconnect 4 wires from the two subwoofers using the quick connects, note thewire arrangement for later replacement. (Do not try to disconnect wires fromamp side)......... Observe the power cord on the inside of the amp panel to locate the fuse onthe right side of the power wires............. The fuse is a Slow Blow 5 amp part # 270-1067 (get one at RadioShack).............. Fuse might not look blown but replacement is recommended to be sure. Installnew fuse and reconnect 4 wires to subwoofers. Reinstall panel with 4 cornerscrews and reconnect all components............... Turn on power to unit (with no music) and listen for any sounds from sub todetermine if fuse may blow again. If no unusual sound was present turn on musicfrom the computer to see if unit works properly............ If fuse blows again Amp module must be returned to Klipsch............. If fuse is not blow but unit still won’t work return Amp module toKlipsch............... If everything works again, install remaining screws and count yourblessings............. To return amp to Klipsch: Call first, setup case and get RMA #. Cost will be$60.00 plus shipping to Klipsch. They will return in 2 weeks postagepaid............ Hope this helps others............. Al Mine died recently. I replaced two FETs (soldered all of sixpins and replaced a little thermal goop) on the satellite side of the pre-amp.Problem solved. Most of the problems are going to be in the two power boards orthe pre amp due to their high heat levels and the fact that they will bear theworst of any surge other than perhaps something crazy happening to an audioinput.As a preventative measure I went ahead and replaced a chipped ceramic cap aaswell as moved a power resistor away from the power supply board to somewherecooler with a couple of short wires. I just ordered a 120mm 240VAC fan thatwill run undervolted via the output of the relay on the AC input board. I amplanning on punching a hole in the front of the sub enclosure so the fan canforce in cool air. Way I figure any acoustic side effects are minor compared toa dead amp. Hopefully the lower temps will give me many years before I have tofix them again. hopefull by then I'll have a degree and a good job to buy mesomething larger.I heard about the Elliott guy on the Klipsch forums. According to those thatused his services he does good work and has good service. For me, it wasntworth the time and money since Im an intern in a electrical failure abnalysislab.. http://www.hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1028862277&postcount=89 Is your set an Ultra? If so check R527 in the power supplysection.I also have a dead amp, i've been scouring the web and seems like the miniregulator on mine is toast. BASH HC1011. Which you can buy from infinity/HK. Ihaven't fixed mine yet, because something caused that regulator to fail. Eitherfrom a bad sat. amp or just overheated.The fact the sub is working means the section with the R527 resistor is stillworking. Most likely the regulator board on the board with black heat sinks hasgone bad. The best way to troubleshoot the regulator is by swapping in areplacement board (not practical for a do-it-yourselfer). There is a smallchance that one or more of the satellite amplifier boards has gone bad, drawingtoo much current and causing the regulator section to fail. See what thevoltage to the satellite amps is (should be at least 7 volts for a non-Ultra).Current at idle (no signal) should be under 1/2 amp going to all 5 satellitescombined. (Again, that will be hard to measure if the regulator board is dead).I'll guess your satellite voltage and current is now 0.I get .5v coming out of the sat board. I get 10.5v coming out of the sub board.Out of the power supply, I get 56.5v into the sats and 84v into the subs.I got help from a guy that repairs these things for money. This is as far asi've gotten. He would charge about 50+ shipping including an upgrade mod tocool the power supply. He Install fans on the power supply section.This is as far as i've gotten. I just didnt want to spend the 20 bucks yet andfigure that it'll be busted again. Still debating if i should just get itrepaired for 50 bucks.Hope this helps. I replaced R527 with a 2 watt 47 ohm resistor and now mysubwoofer and satellites work but the sometimes the signal has static. Theproblem is easy to hear at middle volumes like between 25 and 45 (on theklipsch controller) but I when I turn he volume up to 60 or 70 the static ismuch harder to hear. I read on the klipsch forums that someone was saying thatthere's a "special diode" which connects to R527 and can sometimes beproblematic. However, he only said it was a "special diode." Could hemeant like a zener diode or germanium diode or something like that?? Doesanyone have any idea what he meant by special diode or if this relates to myproblem at all? i havent tried this yet but i hope this helps out a little.my promedia 5.1 sys. is also dead. amp works with sub only. seems that theMOSFET switches are dead. heres what to do....this solution is for those of you with the problem of the Satellite speakersdying or cutting off and on, but the SUB is ok. This solution probably alsofixes those systems which have the opposite problem: The SUB cutting out ordead, but the Satellites are ok.Both SATS & SUB use identical components (chips) for power switching, butare on opposite sides of the same board.OK, here what you’ll need to doYou’ll need to know basic soldering, so you’ll need a soldering iron with afine (small) tip, solder, and soldering flux. Also get a solder sucker toremove the old solder. Don’t use the copper braid stuff to remove it; it takestoo long to heat up and that extra time can heat damage your board’scomponents.PARTS NEEDED:Quantity 2: high speed MOSFET switches, part number IRFZ44N. Part number IRFZ44can be used as well. Equivalents from other suppliers will work too.These part numbers are equivalent to the NTE part number NTE2395. Go towww.NTEINC.com and use the cross reference. There you can read the spec sheetif you’re into that sort of thing. There, also in the specs, you can see adrawing of the part if you need a visual clarification. Click on the partsdistributors in your state link to find parts suppliers nearby. I found a storenearby who had the IRFZ44 chips. There’s also online distributors, but bewareonline of the minimum order; that will cut into your savings!This NTE site is a favorite for “OLD SCHOOL” component level electronicstroubleshooters like me! I’m not really “old” though, I can still dunk a basketball!(occasionally).!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Remember to unplug your power cord 1st!!!!!!!!!!!!! The board you’ll be replacing parts on is the one containing the BASHcircuitry. From here on I’ll refer to it as the crossover board. You canidentify it by looking for the two little boards on it with the word “BASH” onthe outside of each one. This board is the “switching” part of this switchingpower supply. This also is the signal crossover board; it separates the highand low frequencies. Notice the 2 big copper coil wound inductors, just likethe crossovers found in car and home speaker boxes. This board also ties thelow level preamp signals from your PC, to the high level amplifier circuitry ofthe Klipsch system. You can find this board by following the Red & Blackwires that daisy chain across the top of the surround (SAT) boards back towhere they start. Again it’s the board with the 2 smaller boards with the words“BASH” on their sides. To remove the crossover board, unscrew the 2 screws onthe outside cover. You will also have to remove the 2 sets of Red & Blackwires from each side of the crossover board. Label the wires accordingly. Thewords, SUB (+) & SUB (-) are on the board next to one heatsink, SAT (+)& SAT (-) are next the other. I will be referring to these wires again inthe next section.The crossover board has 2 identical circuits, one side is for the SATELLITEspeakers, and the other side is for the SUBWOOFERS. You can figure out whichside you need by looking at the Red & Black wires mentioned above. Thedaisy chained Red & Black wires from the 5 SATELLITE amplifier boards pluginto the SAT+/-. The other Red & Black wires with SUB+/- go to the SUBamplifier board. Remember, the SUB board is the only board not connected in thedaisy chain. If needed, cut the cable ties holding these wires to make sure youtrace them correctly. These wires plug into both sides of the crossover board.Remember to look for SAT+/- & SUB+/- written on the crossover board itself.There are 2 black heatsinks (plates) on each side of the crossover board neareach Red & Black wire plug-in. The heatsink near the SAT plug-in is forSATS and the one nearest the SUB plug-in is for the SUBS. On each heatsinkthere are 3 black clips. These clips have holes on one side of them. Theseclips hold 3 chips on to the heat sink. Remove the clips. I used a smallflathead screwdriver by lifting (spreading) the clip and sliding it off. Undereach clip are the following:Quantity 2: MOSFET switches (a kind of high speed switching transistor). Thenumber on these 2 chips is IRFZ44N.Quantity 1: Semiconductor Diode. The Part Number on this one is U1520. (Youwill NOT be removing this chip). It’s hard to find it aftermarket (notimpossible) so BEWARE!!Hint: The MOSFETS have 3 legs; The Diode has 2 legs!!!!Remove the heat sink by unscrewing it from the board (2 screws). The 3 chipswill stay in place. Take care not to damage the cards with “BASH” written onthem or you’ll probably regret it!Remove the plastic liners from the back of the 2 MOSFET chips. You’ll needthese for the replacement chips so do not throw them away, put them aside.You’ll notice there’s a white paste on them, this stuff is heat sink compound,available at any Radio Shack. I just re-spread & re-used the compoundalready on the liners and chips.Removing the 2 MOSFETS, Part Number IRFZ44N:I found it easier to just bend them back and forth until the legs snapped off.That way they are out of the way to get to at the solder joints. You’re goingto heat the solder joints up. Put flux on the joints before you heat them. Withflux, they will heat a lot faster causing less damage to the board. Suck thepoints clean of solder & remove the broken off legs using the solder suckerand a small needle nose pliers or tweezersInstalling the new MOSFET chips:Push them through the solder holes making sure the backs of the chips (silverside) are towards the “BASH” cards, identical to the U1520 diode chip. If youput them in backwards you’ll probably regret it!!!Make sure the height of the chip is about the same as the U1520 diode chip. Itdoesn’t have to be perfect, but be in the ballpark. I did this by bending thelegs on the solder side (back side) of the board when the height was correct.Solder the new chips on to the board. Solder on the back side only. Remember todab flux on the legs and solder points first, this makes the solder flow fastand heats up the replacement chips less. Add new solder to the tip of thesoldering iron only, not directly to the legs. This reduces the heat on the newchips. Touch the soldered tip of the iron to each leg of the chip. With flux onthe legs, the solder will quickly flow into the solder joint. Add more solderto the iron as needed.Remember to cut the extra bit of leg off after each soldered joint when you’redone. You don’t want the legs to bend & touch or you’ll probably regret it.Viola! You got yourself a repaired crossover/switching board, (you repaired theswitching part) and you saved some time & dough $$!!Re-install the heatsink and liners. Reconnect the plugs and remount the board. http://forums.klipsch.com/tags/Promedia+5.1+Amp/default.aspx http://blogs.ebay.com/elliot-tronics/entry/Klipsch-Promedia-Ultra-and-THX-Problems/_W0QQidZ160630017 Replace --- Replaced withR527 (4.7 ohm) --- CPF34R7000JKE14R529 (5110 ohm) --- CMF605K1100FHEK680 ohm (PCB position not labelled) --- RN70E6800FB14MR7 (100k ohm) --- CPF2100K00BEB14 D5 and D6 (FR204) --- FR204-BAll three 22uF (50V) capacitors --- EEU-FC1J220 (63V caps because they don't have the 50Vversions. Same size as 47uF caps, fits fine though.)All three 47uF (50V) capacitors --- EEU-FC1H470Q10 (2N5551) --- 2N5551RLRAG (also has properly spaced pins, unlike theoriginal) now thats exactly what I was looking for thanks for goingthrough the trouble it is appreciated im waiting on a spare sub im getting from ebay. i will make it work and let itheat up and use a temp probe to find hot spots and record my findingswell Ive done some testing and have spoken to Evan about these amps. hesuggested replacing R1/R4 with 470 2w resistors and R7 with 100k 2w resistorsboth on back of board. as a must and in my testing i have found R7 and R527 to be the 2 hottest spots on theboard. now just to say this first I went overboard in upgrades on the ac/dcboard and eventually will upgrade all boards for temp/efficiency/clarity i willalso be upgrading the gauge of wires and replacing all interconnects with goldreplacements. caps are all low noise audio replacements.as well as a new heatsink design but heres the list of components so far project manager cartdaughter boardR1/R4 with 71-CPF2470R00FKE14R7 with 71-CPF2-B-100KQ3 with 512-MPSA92R8 with 2f2DCT52R1001R9 with 273-205K-RCnow for main boardDB1 with rs606M due to 200amp max surge as opposed to 150amp of originalC517/C518/C525 with 647-UKW2A470MPDC519/C520/C532 with 647-UKW2A220MED1000u 100v cap with 647-UKW2A102MHD1000u 63v (couldnt go bigger due to space) with 647-UKW1J102MHDR527 with 71-CPF3-J-4.7-E3R529 with 273-5.11K-RC(next to R529 unlabeled) with 71-RN70E6800FD5/D6 with 583-FR204-BQ510 with 863-2N5551RLRAGQ501/Q502 with 512-IRF740BD510 with 863-MUR1620CTGD504 with 863-MUR1660CTGU501 with 511-L7815CVU502 with 511-L7915CVR524 with 71-CCF02-J-47K R 2,3,5,6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synchromesh1 Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks. I figured out my problem. One of the black heatsinks became loose and after gluing it back everything is working. I checked around and pretty much all of the components are in good shape. Since I read a bit about these problems I would like to install a fan in there. Question is, what should I get it to feed off of? I mean I can just attach it to the 120V AC socket but then it will spin all the time. I know with a relay I can get it to turn on only when the system is on but where would I plug it in for that? Thanks again!. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcigg Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 This guy repairs them and sells a fan kit for the speakers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/COOLING-FAN-KIT-UPGRADE-Klipsch-ProMedia-5-1-THX-Ultra-amplifier-/230734991797?pt=PCA_Speakers&hash=item35b8e091b5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Synchromesh1 Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 I'm aware of that kit. I just had all the necessary components already, makes little sense to pay $30 for what I already have. Hence the question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drcigg Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 No idea on that one. Some people swear by the fan as keeping the unit cool while others say it's replacing the components that are known to get to warm. Elliot the main guy that repairs these things and has repaired hundres of these says the heat can only be fixed by replacing with better quality components. Mine is running pretty cool without the fan. I replaced my resistors, diodes, transistors with ones that can handle higher temps. There was something here on the forum about 3 or 4 years ago however those are all long gone as klipsch waxed everything clean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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