spiked k-horns?

[jdm56]

My '98 klipschorns are located in a basement music room...and I'm gettin' nervous. We've had a number of 3+ inch rains here in SW MO in rapid succession and our basement just sprung its first leak - in the music room of course, about a foot from one speaker. The carpet had a wet streak about a half-inch wide extending about a foot out from the wall. Just a tiny thing, really. The speaker never got wet, but I'm concerned. So my question is, has anyone put spikes, cones or anything underneath a pair of klipschorns? Would doing so screw up the bass horns coupling to the corner? Or is the wall interface all that matters? I'd sure rest easier if those babies were up off that carpet a bit.

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JDMcCall

[maxg]

If all you want to do is raise the speakers off the ground I would choose something solid to put them on. I dont think they were ever designed to be spiked (could spikes take the weight without ruining your floor?).

I would suggest a solid piece of marble, granite or similar one to two inches high - if your floor can take it that is -KHorns are not light on their own!

If you go much above that you may find the sound experience changes.

Dont let the horns touch the ceiling - LOL!

[WMcD]

I have my homebuilt units on castered wheels which I bought at Home Depot. Bass is okay.

You might consider this. If you don't want to put holes in your K-Horn bottoms, you might cut a piece of 3/4 inch plywood, mount the wheels on the bottom of the plywood and sit the K-horn on top.

Certainly this will keep things dry if you have more water. Also, they make moving the beasts much more easy.

Edit and PS.

After thinking about it, my set up is not quite like yours. I have the backs closed off so there is not quite the problem of a seal at the back. And that is a definite issue from the bass standpoint.

I'd suggest a piece of 3/4 inch plywood (or two), cut to the same dimensions as the bottom of the the bass horn. That would give you some piece of mind. Maybe in a mild flood there would still be some wicking up the plywood, but painting it might help make it less absorbant.

You might now have rubber gasket at the tail board. If you put the units on any sort of a pedistal, a similar seal could be improvised at the bottom if there is a gap.

The biggest fall back would be to construct a false corner as is shown in a "Dope From Hope". (I'll send you a copy by mail if you e-mail your postal address. And yes, PWK has these in his living room.)

It is built up out of 2 x 4 and wallboard or plywood for an overall thickness of about 5 inches. But then add a bottom of the same design. Then the structure would be placed in the corner with the speaker inserted. A big project, but close to factory approved and will prevent damage from a four inch flood. They might even improve sound quality.

Gil

This message has been edited by William F. Gil McDermott on 06-22-2001 at 10:12 PM

[jdm56]

Thanks for the ideas, Max and Gil. I really don't want to get that tweeter horn much higher than it is anyway, but maybe no more than a couple of inches would not make much difference. I'm more concerned about the bass.

I do wonder if cones or points would offer any sonic benefits similar to what they supposedly do with conventional (non horn-loaded woofer) speakers. Audio Advisor sells some aluminum cones (Michell Tenderfeet) that are an inch and a half high, that screw into the bottom of the speaker. To the tune of $10.65 a pop. But geez, how would you move the speaker around on those things? I'm sure it could be done, but that's getting a little...difficult.

I kind of like the notion of a thin slab of something between the speakers and the carpet. Weight is no problem - they're sitting on concrete. Now if I can just figure out what. Any and all ideas are appreciated.

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JDMcCall