D-MAN Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Jim, nice! I like the additional angles on the baffle corners. I have taken the approach that everything counts in the waveform path. Some even paint the interior of the horn channels with a gloss paint to reduce friction. It can't hurt, certainly, although I did not paint mine. But I did turn the "good" wood surface inside. I believe that you will increase your bass efficiency slightly as there will be less potential reflectivity and turbulence in the horn channels. It should theoretically produce less distortion. Add some insulation, and you're all set. My main recommendation as well would be to go with the 6x13" baffle cutout/motor board design. This will increase your versatility greatly. The only issue that I can see would be whether there is enough room left on the baffle for the 17" required for a motor board, but that can be resolved by full-sized drawings. My lashup is using the Khorn sized splitter on the 6x13" opening and a 17" square motor board. Same horn dimensions as the Khorn (which is the same throat setup on the LS/Belle, too). You could also go with the Khorn splitter, too. DM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Dman I feel like I have asked that question many times before only to have others tell me it is a waste of time. Have you heard or measured any audiable difference? I have always felt this should work. I think I am giong to try it. Looks like just a few peices pushed in lightly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Well, Dylan, I use it in mine. I wouldn't do it if it didn't sound better to me. I recommend it because I use a K33E just like everybody else, and it helps clean it up on the upper end of the bass. The difference is that without it, the sound is muddier and less "clear". Try it for yourself, and let us know what you think. You can always take it out if you don't like it. P.S. use sparingly, just cover the woofer frame to cut down reflections. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dylanl Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 Sorry I am not trying to take over the thread so, DMAN one last question. Any particular type of insulation & thickness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-MAN Posted December 13, 2004 Share Posted December 13, 2004 I used standard fiberglass 3" roof insulation shown in the pic. It's messy and scratchy to use but traditional for speaker enclosures. Remove the paper first. You need not attach it in any way as it will probably sit just fine. Use staples if you want, directly into the baffle board. The goal is to cover the back of the woofer frame completely. DM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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