pete1729

Exhuming this thread to say thanks to Speakerfritz. The photo of the resistor side of the tagboard you posted has been my guide. After hearing some anomalies in my recapped MC240, I opened it up and found a dozen off spec resistors. With that many getting swapped out I decided to replace them all. The photo above was more than helpful. I also used this http://www.dannyg.com/examples/res2/resistor.htm I used the schematic as well, especially when making the list of parts. Once this amp is done its going to be hooked up to some recapped, repopulated Cornwalls, so there's your Klipsch connection.

$50

These drivers came out of my Cornwalls. The tweeters are blown, they pass no current. The squawkers are fine. I have no illusions about the value of these drivers. The K-52-K is sort of uncommon. I'd like to trade them for some tubes. I need 12AX7's, 12AU7's, 12BH7A's (front end tubes for my MC240) and 6AU6's for another amp. I would also accept money,

Well, I just went ahead and recapped both of them, one with .01 Wima bypass caps on the squawkers and tweeters, the other with .01 Vishays. I found a pair of NOS K-52-H's to replace the mismatched K-52-K and K-55-M. I also got a pair of Crites tweeters to replace the mismatched and blown K-77-M and T35 tweeters. First of all, They sound great. Oh hell yeah... Effortless from the bass up through midrange. Well articulated but not fussy. It's too early to tell if there is a difference between the two with their different bypass caps, That will take a few weeks of listening with a well sorted amp. I also discovered after I sealed up the cabinets that I have the squawkers wired up out of phase. I will, of course change them, but in the mean time what difference is this making to my ears? Also, is there some where on this forum where it would be appropriate to post about trading my mismatched leftover drivers?

Well I went cheap. An Audyn 68MF on the bottom and Dayton 1% for the other two. My mental justification for this was deciding that having closely matched values between the speakers seems important. I am going to experiment with bypass caps. I have ordered a small variety of .01MF film caps. My plan is to put the new drivers in both speakers and recap one crossover and compare it with an unrecapped speaker. This is a fun experiment to run with a friend to see if they can identify the recapped example. Next I am going to recap the other speaker and add bypass caps on the squawker and tweeter capacitors and compare that to the recapped speaker without bypass caps. I have four different sets of bypass capacitors that I plan to experiment with that in total will cost about $25. Cheap thrills

Back in May I bought some Cornwalls with mismatched midranges and blown mismatched tweeters. They have B3 crossovers and date to January 1984. Well, I pulled the trigger on some NOS K-52-H drivers, I'm going to get Bob's tweeters, as well. My question is about recapping the B3 crossovers. The schematic calls for a 70mf cap on the woofer. How important is this cap sonicly? I am looking at prices on these babies and wanting to go with Dayton 5% in the interest of economy and then spending some more serious money on the 2mf and 5mf units. Is this foolish? I'm going to drive the speakers with a Mac 240, which I completely overhauled with Jim McShane's kit.

Thanks, sorry not to have been more precise. I have late Cornwall I's with the B3 network and K52 mids. Does this model have phase reversed midrange drivers? I understand the effects may be subtle, but my examples need a fair amount of work. I'd just as soon do it all at once and for the better.

Is there any advantage to remounting the drivers on the front of the motor board/baffle so they are flush? I have all the necessary skills and equipment to do this.

USNRET I might take you up on that. If I end up with a pair of new drivers I'll offer you my orphan.

Thanks everybody. The K52H drivers would be an excellent option. The K52H driver and B3 crossover is supposed to be a superior combination. I have the B3 crossover in my examples The one I have in mine is a 55M which sounds way rolled off but that's with no tweeter.

I have recently acquired a pair of Cornwall I's from the mid 80's. They have the B3 crossover and according to Klipschcorner.com should have K33E woofer / K52K mid / K77M tweeter. Instead what they have for tweeters is this: One EV T35 and one K77M, both are dead, they pass no signal at all. I opened up the T35 and the voice coil was separated. Furthermore, with respect to the midrange what I have is this: One K52K and one K55M. Both are functional but sound different, as you mIght Imagine. The woofers are K33E and are fine except for some candle wax in the pleats of one of them. Obviously the tweeters should be replaced with Crites CT 125's, What should I do about the Squawkers? There aren't a whole lot of K52K's out there, the last one I can find that sold on ebay was in 2011. The K55M is just wrong from what I've read. I'd like them to match at the very least. I'd like to retain the original crossovers for the most part but I realize that may be impossible. I'd recap them, of course. What do you suggest as a program for getting the most out of them?