Fast1

By the way, I am curious if the SVS that everyone talks about would take care of me. Is it hands down, better than the Velodyne and why? More than anything, I will admit that I like bass and want plenty on the very bottom. I have always wanted multiple drivers, maybe a couple of FSR18s will do the job. I may just bee asking too much for one driver.

OK, DVD doubles as the CD unit and is a Pioneer Elite. I use optical for DVD to the receiver and Coax for CD so I change which DAC I use. You are right, I run the receiver for now on three channels and the rotel powers the fronts. I have the mains set to large for full range, with the crossover in all the time even with movies. Of course the sub is connected to the sub out on the receiver and I use a Y splitter. I use the Xover with movies because it seems the sub out crosses too high for my taste. It actually blends very well and sounds great, just not enough of it. No I am not saying you can barely hear it, but I expected more. Seems when I raise the over to 80hz, I get too much in the 100-150hz range and is boomy. My 7s can play well to 50-60hz so I would prefer to leave them full range and adjust the sub. I have never been happy with the midrange punch like a kickdrum. I enjoy a hard hit to the chest, but am left a little lacking. I know most of this is main speaker territory. I will be looking hard at room modes tonight. I am wondering if I had this in a real corner(which is not really possible right now) if we would even be dicussing this. On the power I think you are mistaken on your 22ga wire in your house. It will only run 5-7 amps. Houses are wired with 12ga on 20amp breakers or 14ga with 15amp breakers. I know I have 12ga going to it so that 18 seems restrictive. I guess I need to better understand how amp power is rated because I see a 1250rms output and assume about a 1500watt input to run it which would require 12ga wire. Let me know if you need more info on my setup. Phase is 180 degree out and sounds better that zero.

By the way to firm your assumption, The driver seems to move a lot with minimal output. The 15 did not move much. Almost look sloppy. It's trying it's heart out but those 7s are tough.

Ok I do like to run the 7s hard, but that is why I bought them and they love it. I run the Rotel 1090 on them at 400wpc. The sub is up just a tad from all the way down on the crossover(like 40hz), volume at 3/4, sub filter 15hz so I get all the very low stuff. I found noise with a tough bass CD, but with the 15", no problem just not super clean. Also just when I thought I was going to be happy because it was super sweet with movies, it popped again watching "the incredibles" and I had to turn down a bunch to get under it. That is not going to work. I buy big so I have the head room. Unlike the 15, I found better bass with phase at 180 out. I am very concerned with the power cord since unit is used and power cord is only 18gauge. I know juice and 18 seems low for an amp that may draw 1500 watts under hard load. I am real close to liking it, but this bottoming thing is not good. I also found much better punch by turning it sideways so the driver pushes against a wall to get a bandpass type configuration. Gotta do what I gotta do. I agree with room problems and this is only a temporary setup. I am also on a sub floor and not in a true corner but if you count the back wall and E center a corner then sure.

Well I would really like to reach ultralow and if I remember right, they only dip around 30hz-ish.

OK, I need some experience here. I first bought the FSX12 and is sounded clean, but with minimal output so I sold it. I then bought the CHT15 and damn that made me happy for a couple years. Had plenty of go for my system, but not quite as clean as I wanted. I just sold it and bought a used FSR18 which is identical to the HGS18 down to the cabinet and sounds great but again, not enough go to keep up with my reference 7 Klipsches. The FSR makes a weird popping noise that sounds really bad under hard excursions so not sure if we have a problem or that is all I get. I am now wondering if two newer model DLS5000s with the 15" would do me better. I am a fan of big low sound and can't get enough. My room is not that big and the CHT15 was able to knock pictures off walls, but the FSR18 won't. I am about to jump ship with this huge lack of SPLs just to get a more natural sound. Am I just asking too much of a sub or what? I understand the diffeerences of the sealed and ported boxes, but I need to meet in the middle somewhere and not willing to spend 5k on subs. I can build my own for that. Your help with the Velodynes or recommendations on other lines will help. Thanks

I was unaware I needed to spell it out. Everyone else seemed to understand, why did't you? Generally all caps would indicate an abreviation. Never the less I never said anything about this "shipper UPS", where does that come from? Well I guess what I am getting at is if you are going to slander someone for what they post, have some idea what you are talking about. A simple, does UPS stand for united parcel service?, who have done fine. Anyway, I am sure you will feel the need to stir the pot a little more, but I have better things to do. Sorry to voice my feelings. Just felt compelled on behalf of others.

Thanks for the replies, because of the VERY poor customer service of the sender, I will more than likely just initiate a chargeback on my card and let them deal with it. The sender does not even answer the phone and this will hurt them in the chargeback war. I have a merchant account and I fear chargebacks, we will see how they handle it. Also in regards to the dragonfyr, I guess everyone else was on board with this topic, you seem like the type to prod an animal until it bites, IA, like to stir the pot. I would prefer you to just stick to the topic and have seen you in other threads slandering others for no apparent reason. Not cool! Most are here to learn and inquire, not badger. Is the internet the place of choice for you so you can badger without recourse? Anyway, thanks everyone else.

5R in parallel with 1R is 0.83333333333333333333333333333333R. Add the 1/R values and then your answer is 1/sum. 1/5=0.2 1/1=1 0.2+1=1.2 1/1.2=0.83 ======================================================== Thanks for your correction. If you look at my solutions, you will see a simple error of computing a 5 and 4ohm resistor in parallel in stead of the 5 and 1ohm. I don't have all day to spend on forums nor did I check my answers. I assure my education in math is VERY up to nuff. I just apologize for the error.

I am pretty familiar with room reflections and sound energy, but would like to learn more so I can plan for my next home theater. I also listen to 2ch 30% of the time and want a "tuned" space for this. My room now is 14x31x8 with my front stage on the 31ft wall. I know I will never get proper imaging in this room, but I have to learn all I can for the next. Links and input would be appreciated. RF7s, RC7, RS7s, Denon, Rotel, pioneer elite, Monster

On the caps, you are actually better off by coupling them in parallel to lower the ESR value which is a rating of how fast a cap can accept and discharge energy. It is best to stay with the values you have unless you have studied your speaker responses and have determined a different slope or cross point. There is generally much research and data collected to tackle this. Most of your stock units will have about 5% tolerance and your aftermarket products will be the same. Changing your values will work if you check exact values of stock and new parts and determine them to be the same. I am not an expert with crossovers but hold a degree in a related field. Changing values without doing your homework may result in a very poor solution, or should I say resolution. The resistors are the same way only series wiring will increase resistance by addition and parallel will decrease by equation. Please refer to link for help. IE, a 5ohm and 1ohm don't equal 4ohms in parallel. That would be 6 ohms in series and 2.220omhs in parallel. How this helps. http://www.answers.com/topic/resistor-1

Just another clarification, UPS stands for United Parcel Service if that was confusing.

Just to clarify, I received the unit on 8/15/2005 at 5:30 pm. I had my claim form with UPS filed my 11:00pm the same evening. I did the repairs because I am pretty sure I will just get screwed on this so I wanted to make sure it was repairable. As I tore down, I just decided to fix it while I was there. Made about 5 bypass links on the L channel board to fix it due to a break in the board. I

Just got my used Rotel RB 1090 and UPS killed it. I spent several hours repairing one channel card and case. I want some compensation for this since I paid for the insurance. I heard UPS was bad about this, but I would be so lucky. I got a great deal and the insurance payoff will not get me another so I want a settlement or a replacement unit. Any thought of where I should go from here? By the way it sounds great NOW! Brandon

I guess I am not looking to burn an MP3 but rather a CD because I understand if anything, the CD would win in overall dynamics. I am still wondering at what bit rate does the sound seem more accurate? I just listened to some burned stuff and it actually sounded pretty good. I think I will burn some that I have originals to and compare. I think that might put some questions to rest. I did find the burned CD had very little back noise but seemed on most to be very vocal and clear but lacked mid range. Not sure of the bitrate on these. B

By the way I am not refering to copying a CD but rather do this via download.

I am looking to burn some CDs for High End listening and wondering if anyone has experience with this. it is my understanding that unless you can hit 256 bitrate or better, don't bother. Also I understand that MP3 is not the choice for quality because of a narrowed frequency range. Most of the songs I have seen are in the 128 bitrate area which may be a waste of time. Any input would be appreciated.

Well I modded the xovers on the 7s and thought I would post my findings. WOW! They really do sound different. The first thing I did was grab some unplugged acoustical music and found myself pushing on them very hard because they were sooo deep sounding and did not hurt my ears. I then tried some more metalic stuff from Bon Jovi, very sweet. I did opt to pull the horns back a bit with the resistor tweak, but this is optional. The biggest thing I heard was more detail and much more dynamic sound. They are no longer an in your face type of speaker, but more deep. I did opt for the more expensive film and foil caps for the series pieces in the HF board, but that is on preference because it does cost more. If you are on the fence with this mod, do it, you ears will like you for it. PS Thanks for all the help Dean.

Sorry, I have to make my own. Dean doesn't have one. Just grab some paper and jot is out. Brandon

Looking for a layout for the 7s if anyone has one. I am sure Dean has one, but he is a busy guy and hate to bother. Or any other helpfull info out there regarding cap comparisons and brands in the 7 networks. Thanks Brandon

No I have a home on 5 acres and noise is no issue. I am used to quality sound and my system is clear with enough headroom to shake the shingles loose, but the ultra dynamic range of the dvd gets rather dramatic. I guess I will try things with the new Elite model player in a few days and see if things sound different. I guess i may do some work with the center channel to better the vocals. If i just boost the volume of the center, then I get things out of balance. If I turn it up, I get my hair blown back. I am young and like it sometimes, but sometimes it is over the top.

Is this actually normal to have to move the volumes all the time in a DVD? Wondering if these highly sensitive and large speakers are doing it or my system settings? Either way it is rather unenjoyable and I like it loud, but wow, DVDs like the ring are very hard to handle.

Can anyone else vouch for the sonics of the dv-45a? I am also considering some mods when I get one. I will need to research what all can be done with these to help the sound and picture. I heard from another that he could not hear any differnce between CD and SACD. He runs Martin Ls so I thought that was puzzling. Brandon

I will second that cabling to the sub as long of quality contruction will make little difference in sound quality. This comes from my own research and directly from a very experinced tuner I know with Velodyne. This is mostly because of the bandwidth of the signal input. You do however want the y adaptor on your inputs to increase input signal. This really help keep your sub on at lower listening levels and boosts the output of the amplifier via signal strength. Brandon

I'm with Bobby,the pioneer 45a can be had for around $200 used,does music pretty well too.It would be one of my few choices in that price range. Well I am now considering the 45a because it has all the formats I want and sounds like a good cheap fix for now. My next question is am I really going to see an audible difference with CD playback from the old Panasonic cheapy? I have borrowed a Denon CD player, but found the sound no different IMO. I also used to experience hard to make out dialog with DVDs and then I would turn it up to hear better, then get blasted with an action scene that pins my ears back. I guess tired of adjusting that volume every few seconds. Granted I run the reference 7 stuff in a smaller room, I still would think I could find a happy listening point. Will the Pioneer fix this?