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About lar418

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  1. The Eliptrac's are SOLD! Thanks for everyone's interest.
  2. Yes, they were used with K33E woofers in my La Scala's and I crossed these over at approximately 400 Hz. I used the woofer portion of the AL-3 crossover and a slightly modified version of the AL-3 squawker portion. The AL-3 squawker portion is not a true bandpass and is designed to let the K55M roll off naturally, therefore it allows the HF144 to extend to it's 18K limit. The stock tweeter was also disconnected from the crossover.
  3. Comparing the K55M/K401 combo to the K55M/Eliptrac combo, the Eliptrac is more open, smoother and forward sounding. Vocals are more compressed through the K401 and there is an ease of presentation with the Eliptrac. Everything just sounds more natural. I noticed and measured about a 1 db. increase in output with the Eliptrac, possibly because of the shorter horn length. The Faital HF144/Eliptrac combo is even smoother and fuller sounding. I used it as a 2-way without the Klipsch tweeter. I liked the sound of the HF144/Eliptrac combo the best, but didn't like the look of the horn boxes I made sitting on my La Scala's. I considered cutting the Eliptrac 400's into the motor board, but didn't want to molest the La Scala's that much. I like the stock look of the speaker, so I switched to the K55M/Fastrac combo and it was a slight compromise in sound, but still better than the K401. Presently my 1994 Lascala's have the stock K33E woofer, K55M/Fastrac combo, Crites CT110 tweeter and slightly modified AL-3 crossover. Mostly stock with some enhancements.
  4. Eliptrac horn is 19-1/2” wide x 9-1/2” high x 11” deep add 5” to depth for driver and adapter. My enclosure is 21-1/2” wide x 11” high x 19” deep
  5. Selling a pair of Eliptrac 400 horns, with our without the enclosure. I have three sets of adapters that I will include. 1” to 2” plastic, 1” to 2” in aluminum and 1-1/4” to 2” in aluminum. Asking $400 plus shipping. Also selling a pair of Faital HF144 in great condition. Asking $325 plus shipping. Thanks, Larry
  6. Still looking? If so, I have a pair that might interest you.
  7. Adding the port tubes was my idea. I noticed that the bass was a little boomy around 80hz to 100hz so I modeled it using bass box pro and it did have a slight bump in response. I then modeled it with 4" port tubes and everything got better. I also rebuilt the crossover myself and got the caps and mounting board from Bob. I picked up the coils and resistors from Madisound. It was a little work dismantling the existing crossover, but worth it. Exerything got a little cleaner and more realistic sounding.
  8. I obtained the T/S parameters for the K-48 driver from the Klipsch Tech Help Center. Then I modeled it using Bass Box Pro and determined that by adding ports I could get better bass response. With the stock bass loading there is a 3db peak centered around 80 hz and the F6 is around 45hz. This woofer really needs a larger box. By adding the ports I was able to almost eliminate the peak and was able to extend the F6 to approximately 37hz on paper. The ports are 4" in diameter and 5.5" long.
  9. Selling a pair of upgraded Original Klipsch Chorus speakers in great condition. They have a few scratchs, but overall are great looking speakers. They have consecutive serial numbers, 90011293 and 90011294. They are 101db, with a frequency response of 39hz to 20khz. They have been complete gone over. The tweeter diaphrams have been replaced with titanium diaphrams, (I still have the original), crossover have been updated with all new parts from Bob Crites, internal wiring upgraded, binding posts have been upgraded to Edison Price, all horns have been dampened, cabinet walls dampened, cabinets refinished and bass tuned lower by adding ports. They sound wonderful! I'm only selling these because I'm remodeling my basement and going into a small monitor. They are listed on Audiogon for $875, but would take less from a forum member. Link listed below. http://cgi.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cl.pl?spkrfull&1213420491&item
  10. The DJK mod does help increase the low bass output. It is pretty solid down to about 35hz. This is my second attempt with this mod. The first time I tried it with a total rear volume of 4.8 cu-ft and I was using a newer K-33 woofer. I got some lower bass, but I wasn't totally happy with the results. Next I made the rear volume 6 cu-ft, similar to the Cornwall volume. The bass got deeper, but I had a loss of bass around 50hz. Finally, I tried BEC's new woofer which has a lower FS. The 50 hz dip in response disappeared and I achieved strong bass to about 35hz. I had to reduce the squawker output by 2.4 db's due to the reduced output of the bass horn with this mod. I test it with a stereophile test CD and also a few Telarc CD's to confirm the bass response. I prefer this over a few subwoofers that I've tried. The bass is tighter and faster with this mod compared to using subs that produced a slow, warmer and somewhat tubby sounding bass. The DHA2 crossover allowed me to easily adjust the attenuation and crossover frequencies as I made other modifications. It also sounds excellent at lower to mid listening levels. I'm using Bob's oil cap and I was very impressed how good they sounded compared to Hovland caps. Actually, I like the the oil caps better. The side braces helped tighten up the bass and reduced the side wall vibrations. The BEC tweeter really sweetened up the upper frequencies and added some nice realism. I was also able to lower the crossover point to about 4500 hz which blended better with the squawker. The DHA2 has a true bandpass filter on the squawker. Dampening the metal squawker horns with rope caulk and then duct tape helped reduce the ring and really deadened these horns. These speakers do sound better off the ground. The 12" high base puts the tweeter above ear level though. I tried flipping the upper section to get the tweeter at ear level, but it sounded closed in with the tweeter below the squawker. Also tried these with the squawker and tweeter in the vertical position and it sounded different, but a little disconnected from the bass horn. Hope this helps, Larry
  11. I'm going to be selling my split Industrial La Scala's because they are just too big for my listening room. They sound excellent, but they really need a nice size room to sound as good as they could. I paid $1250 for these a few years ago and have put over $500 into them. They have been repainted recently and look pretty good, but are more of a basement speaker do to their industrial look. I've made the following modifications to these speakers: (New BEC tweeter, dampened squawker horn, new slightly modded DHA2 crossover with BEC oil caps, Reality Cable internal wiring, Edison Price copper binding posts, braced base bin, new BEC 15" woofer, added the grill cloth and DJK bass bin mod.) I'd like to offer these to Forum members before I list them on Audiogon or Ebay. I live near Chicago and these are just too big to ship, so I'm looking for a local buyer. I'd like to get at least my initial investment or $1250 for them. I can be reached via email at lar.leggett@sbcglobal.net I can send additional photos of the speakers, crossover, binding posts, etc. if you email me. Thanks, Larry
  12. Hi Pete, Yes, there is and we meet on the third Sunday of every month and evaluate equipment. See the web site below. http://www.chicagoaudio.org/directions.htm
  13. Both the Creek and the Maxx 806 were modded by Stan Warren. I know he changed the volume pot and a few caps in the Creek. I purchased both of these pieces from a fellow member of the Chicago Audio Society. If interested just email me and I can look into the cost and time in having another Creek modded.
  14. Hi Mark, Sorry for the late response, but work has been a bear lately. I've had all of Paul's products. The Cayin TA-30 with all the mods, 2-TAD 150's, TAD-1000 mono blocks and recently the TAD-60. I have 2 systems and tried each of these pieces in both. The Cayin TA-30 was a very musical amp and it did benefit a little from the TAD-150, but to me it sounded better with the volume of the TAD-150 set all the way up and using the TA-30 to adjust the gain. The 12AT7 in the preamp really needs some power to open up. The extra gain from the preamp did add some punch and a little bit of clarity, but to me it wasn't a dramatic difference. The remote, headphone jack and phono sections were very nice features. The TAD-150 did add a little bit of veiling, but I haven't had a preamp that didn't add something unless it was passive. Passive preamps can sound thin and actives will add some dynamics, but they also add their sound signature to the music. Regarding the TAD-150, it was one of the nicest sounding tube preamp that I have heard, but I feel that sometimes tubes can be used too much in a system. A tube somewhere in the system can be a good thing either in a source component, preamp or power amp, but if everything is tubed the system can get too soft, warm and round sounding. That is why I wasn't crazy about the Cayin/TAD-150 combo. Just my opinion. I'm also running La Scala's and did have a slight ground loop problem, but I solved it by using cheater plugs on the amps and had only one piece in the system grounded. The TAD-1000 and TAD-60 are a nice step up from the Cayin with more power, dynamics and clarity. I had the TAD-1000's for a year and recently scaled back to the TAD-60. When I was using the TAD-1000's I actually connected them directly to my CD player and achieved the greatest clarity. Later I tried a Creek passive preamp for convenience and achieved the same clarity. The TAD-60 has the same sound characteristics as the TAD-1000, but everything is slightly smaller. The dynamics and soundstage depth and width are reduced somewhat. The TAD-1000 is like the TAD-60 on steroids. The midrange is a little sweeter with the TAD-60 though. I feel the TAD-60 is a super value and am using it in my 2-channel HT system with the following pieces. Sony NS-999ES DVD (with filters set to soft) Sansui TU-S7 tuner Mod Squad Deluxe Line Drive passive preamp TAD-60 amp (Like the sweet midrange and get the slam from the subs with the plate amps) Modded Klipsch RB-35's and Madisound/Seas coaxials (I switch back and forth, since I like both. Seas is smaller and more wife friendly, it may win out.) Sonacraft subwoofer with 150 watt plate amps Main system: Modded Marantz CD67-SE Modded Magnum Dyanlab FT-11 tuner Modded Creek OBH-12 preamp Modded Maxx 806 Superphon SS chip amp (Like the slam of SS and very close to tube midrange) Modded La Scala's with many upgrades and a version of the DJK/bass mod Hope this helps, Larry
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