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Ki Choi

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Posts posted by Ki Choi

  1. Thanks Pat and others for constructive comments.

    Yes, I have been away from this forum for a while. I do want to get to the Jub level performance sooner or later.

    After trying majority of speakers designs, I found myself always coming back to the trusty Khorns. Just before leaving for current trip,

    I hooked up one of my 8Bs and was wondering how much better the Jubs can sound? This is pretty good. Matter of fact, better than all the other speakers I had in the same room. I will take a photo of my naked Trachorn/CP25/BEC AA setup.

    Good to hear from you Pat. I will cerntainly make a visit. Same for you - when you are in Seattle area. We can grab a bite to eat and listen to music... What more acan a man ask for...?

    Ki

  2. Hi Guys:

    Thanks for your inputs. Nice thought but not practical to stretch the Khorn bass bin.... However, my goal is to have more simpler 2 way system with improvements of Khorns - Jubs I guess.

    It seems, I'll have to wait for Greg to come up with custom made Jub bass bins first and then think about the HF horn and driver or I remember some old posts on commercial version of the Jub bass bins - I'll do a search.

    Ki

  3. Well, I have been itching to upgrade my current Khorns with ALK Trachorns and BEC AAs. With Greg's 2" V-Trachorns and newer ALK crossovers available, choices are many to count. I have asked similar question before but my own assessment - as well as many in forum - is that there are rooms for improvements in mid horn and the tweeter but the bass bin is still the best.

    I know the new Jub bass bins with two drivers must be better but for my smallish room, I am content with the Khorn bass bin. I had recently experiemented with the bass bins just as subwoofers with electronics crossover (51Hz for B&Ws and 109Hz for Quad ESL-63s at 18db/Oct) and 200W SS amps. It was most realistic bass I had in my room. Only other set up that may have bettered was when I had the full range SoundLab A-1 electrostic speakers driven by a pair of 500W monoblocks.

    So the having-the-cake-and-eating-it-too wild idea is to keep the bass bin cabinet and find a replacement woofer that will go from 30Hz and up to around 800Hz like the Jub woofers for a two way system with 2" driver (like Beyma CP750ND) and matching horn for the top to be mounted on top of the bass bins with angle adjustment for the best imagining capability. I have seen modern 15" woofers that will go from 20Hz to 2.5Khz but has much lower sensitivity (~97dB). I guess I can still have electronic crossover with dedicated amp to compensate the bass level to the upper horn but prefer passive two-way crossover.

    I would imagine this thought may have been discussed here earlier, if so - sorry.

    Ki

  4. Thanks guys for the info.

    Mike:

    It seems the black line corresponds to bass bin diving at 300Hz but what is the red line?

    I am getting the most musical (unlike the normal powered subs...) bass from my '76 Khorn bass bins driven actively with Hsu Research electronics crossover set at 51Hz with 200w/ch SS amps - helping out a pair of B&W N800s positioned way out in the room for the ghostly imaging performance. I realize there are huge time alignment issue with the Khorn bass bins in the corners of the room and the N800s positioned almost 4' away from the front wall. But I am very pleased with the sound. Maybe this time alignment thing is over rated...

    Since my room isn't huge, I was hoping if there's a way to squeez out as much out of the Khorn bass bins to get them close to the Jub bass bins, it would make an ideal poor man's Jub bass section for me to try at some point with proper drivers for mids and highs...

    thanks,

    Ki

  5. I second greg's thoughts Ki. Are those the larger 2 ways with the fried egg tweeter under the metal mesh cage?

    Hi Kaiser,

    Yes, these are the larger two way with orange color "fired egg" tweeter with metal mesh guard. I believe these are relatively newer ones with rounded front edge trims instead of angled orginal trims. I'll have to take some photos and post them soom.

    I searched ebay for DIY foam repair kits and it seems there are quite a few choices. Considrering, if DIY route doesn't workout, I can get them repaired professionally, so, I will give it a try.

    Thanks, guys.

    Ki

  6. Before I heard of Klipsch or B&Ws, I used to drool over for a pair of Large walnut Advents as a poor college student in the '70s. I worked as hard as I could one summer but didn't get enough to buy a pair and had to settle for a pair of Marantz (can't remember the model but it was only model that had enough sensitivity to work with my whopping 12w/ch Akai receiver). Finally I got a pair of Large Advent speakers in prestine cosmetic condition . The walune veneer and trims are in excellent shape but the woofers need refoaming as expected. I want to send them to the best place possible for the work.

    I have found few places searching on Audio Asylum but thought to ask the forum for better recommendation.

    TIA

    Ki

  7. There was a Analog vs Digital challenge gathering in Seattle back in June. The outcome of the challenge is another story but during the shootout (do the search on Vinyl Asylum), Mike, the host, had the very best Transparent interconnects (~$12K/pair) and speaker cables (~$30K/pair - he had two pairs...) in his system that created problem in the playback mode. It was one of the pairs of fancy interconnects that caused the problem and they were replaced by 10 yr old Monster interconnect cables ($200 max?), my friend John had brought with him. It was nice...and the challenge continued.

    My guess is that the fancy lump (the network) in the middle of the Transparent interconnect was the source of the problem.

    Talking about cables is like arguing about politics and religions... You do whatever makes you happy and don't try to convince others with what you believe... I usually let my ears make the call... I have had bad cables in my system but no fancy cables or wires made my system sound any better than what it's made to sound like - just nice sound with nothing to take away or to add. I let my tubes do the magic in making it nicer than what the way the music was recorded.

    Ki

  8. Gary:

    Glad to hear that the DD66000 seemed interesting to you. I heard a pair in Osaka and was impressed although the room wasn't ideal.

    I didn't think they publish the 2006 Grand Prix Award list online.

    In the list for speaker systems with list price of 1,600,000 Yen ($13,000 US) or higher catagory,

    1. JBL Project Everest DD66000

    2. JBL Project K2 S9800SE

    3. B&W 800D

    4. ATC SCM100Tsl

    5. Magico Mini

    5. Wilson System 8

    7. Wilson Sophia 2

    7. Tannoy Canterbury/SE

    9. Quad ESL 2905

    9. Sonus Faber Guarneri Memento

    9. Sony SS-AR1

    9. Avantgarde Nano

    9. B&W 801D

    9. Sonus Faber Stradivari Homage

    9. Avalon Diamond

    16. B&W 802D

    16. Vivid Audio B1

    16. Vivid Audio K1

    16. Sonus Faber Anniversario

    16. Linn Artikulat 350

    16. Ray Audio RM7VC MESA

    16. Magico Model 6

    16. Avalon Isis

    There are six speakers ranked 24th - notable is Klipschorn for 1,700,000 Yen ($13,900US)

    There are 11 speakers raned 30th.

    Let me know if you are interested in seeing more.

    Ki

  9. Kudret:

    I am thinking of closing the backs of the Khorns like the 60th Anniversary models instead of building the false corners.

    Not having the full false concers, the bass may be sacrificed a bit but having the backs closed would be more practical in my room. OTOH, as long as the Khorns stays near the corners, the difference wouldn't be too huge IMO. In addition, I have discovered the Revel B15 power sub to have most seamless integrated bass than all the other power subs I have tried. I think with the closed backs and Revel 15 helping out, it might be the end of Khorn tweaking for me... I hope.

    Ki

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