frankphess
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Posts posted by frankphess
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B&K is another maker of high current amplifiers that do well with the 7's, and often can be found on Audiogon. As far as their processor, I recently purchased B&K's Ref 50 Series 2 pre/pro and am happy with it, however there seems to have been many complaints about previous versions, Ref 20, 30 etc. But I can say that their amps run cool and quiet and I have never had a problem with them.
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I've climbed the amplifier chain, from reveiver, to receiver w/outboard 105w amplifier, to receiver with 200w stereo amplifier, to tubed preamp with 250 watt monoblocks, all with the RF-7's. Each step up the ladder is a noticable improvement. And if you're really looking to get the most out of the 7's, Dean's crossover upgrade is a must.
While any amplifier will produce sound coming out of the RF-7 because of their high sensitivity, the 7's are a difficult load on an amplifier because of their impedance dips. Quality amplification is highly recommended regardless of your listening habits.
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Correct, if you had a seperate little amp, you would use that for "normal" television. You could then switch back and forth with the PS-1 between your tubes and the digital (or SS), thus saving your tube amps from being used during "normal" TV.
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Frank - I have no idea what you're talking about. Maybe I'll call Niles to sort out the differences between these 2 gadgets.
I'm thinking....... If I wanted to have 3 scenarios... 1) 2-channel with tubes 2) Peach HT bypass for surround using tubes for mains 3) strictly AVR The Peach allows toggling between the first 2 options. Already have that. So a switchbox would go where in the system to get the 3rd option? I'd switch the Peach to HT bypass - then the switchbox to toggle between HT bypass and strictly AVR/HT receiver? Is that about right?
Me Loves Khorns - Could you describe a bit better these adapters you're using in the Niles? Are they perhaps the flexy banana type ends? It's really a shame Niles choose to limit the holes to 14g.
The problem is option 3 - You can not have "strictly AVR" because your AVR (& your speakers ) are going through your Peach and VRD's. Now if you had a seperate outboard amplifier for use with "strictly AVR" - that's what the PS-1 would switch between. Because you're using your preamp out from your receiver, your AVR amplifier section is not being used. In order to use your AVR, you would need to run a seperate set of speaker wires from AVR to the speakers and disconnect the preouts, or get ANOTHER amplifier to utilize the PS-1. E-mail me and I'll send you my phone number if you'd like to discuss over the phone. It's a little difficult to get across in print. Frank.p.hess@sargentlundy.com
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You have a mixed bag of an integrated receiver, a seperate preamp and seperate amplifiers. The PS-1 would be used to switch between a (let's say) seperate SS amp and a seperate tube amp, the PS-1 would switch between the two. You would need a seperate amplifier rather than using the amplifier section of the HT receiver. I don't see a good way to use the integrated amplifier for TV without disconnecting and reconnecting cables, whether it be interconnects or speaker cable.
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The link above is for the Niles "PS-1" which accepts RCA plugs to switch back and forth between sources or amplifiers, rather than speakers.
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How about this 3 channels amp from B&K
B&K Reference 4430 Multi-Channel Amplifier 3 channels
200 x 3
is this same have the same design as the you have mentioned ....
Yes, it will certainly do the trick, and yes their 2, 3 and 5 channel reference amplifiers all have similar if not identical specs. and sound great with the 7's. You'll notice a much blacker backround and a noticable improvement at LOWER listening levels.
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But my budget is limited between $1000.00 and $1500.00
http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampstran&1181319863
You really only "need" a 2-channel amp for the RF-7's. You can run your center and surrounds from your receiver, then purchase a three channel amp later. You will not be disappointed with B&K.
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I don't see any messages there. Below is what the "private messages" shows.
"Oops! There are either no posts or due to a filter there are no posts to display."
I can be reached by e-mail at frank.p.hess@sargentlundy.com, if you like.
Thanks,
Frank Hess
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Recently acquired a pair of Cary SLM-100 monoblocks. They play music, however when I try to dial in the bias, the 1/2" amp fuse blows while turning the bias screw. It blows when the meter reaches 70-80 mA, as they are supposed to be biased at 175mA per matched quad of KT-88's. I've gone through about 6-7 fuses and just can't get to 175 before the fuse blows. One amp seemed to work fine, then it too started doing the same thing. Any suggestions?
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I wouldn't recommend it. The RF-7 and RC-7 have ports in the rear. I tried packing them in between a wall and the TV and was very unhappy with their performance. Once brought back out into the room, dramatic improvement. The RC-7 should not be as much of a problem as it is used mostly for dialog.
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Love Maceo. Life on Planet Groove is my favorite. He toured with Prince a couple years ago, and is on Prince's 3 CD box set - One Night Alone Live. This box set includes lots of other musicians as well, George Clinton, Candy Dalfer, Sheila E. to name a few.
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Try a cheater plug on the pre-amp if your pre-amp is a three prong plug.
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You must be careful when purchasing blues albums, as some may have been recorded in the 50's or 60's and might not sound so good. I can recommend these as being pretty well recorded and some of my favorites.
John Lee hooker - Hooker & Heat (Live with Canned Heat),
- Alone
- Don't look back (produced by Van Morrison)
- The Healer (some tracks with guest artists)
Muddy "Mississippi" Waters - Live! (with Johnny Winter & Pinetop Perkins)
- Hard Again
- King Bee
- Muddy & The Wolf (half Muddy/ half Howlin Wolf)
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http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?preatube&1172112987
Not mine, no affiliation, etc, etc.
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While I can not say it has made a dramatic improvement, I too recently purchased a Furman "AC Conditioner" for surge suppression and piece of mind. It does however, have 2 cool lights which pull out to shine on the Peach.
http://www.furmansound.com/products/consumer/elite/elite15pf.php?req=es
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I also don't need any racks but would be able to help on a weekend if needed. I work in Chicago and live in the South Suburbs. Maybe pick a date and time when a few of us could get together and knock it out? I've got a pickup truck too. I can be contacted at frank.p.hess@sargentlundy.com if you'd like to set something up.
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What else looks good out there that I can order for X-mas?
Nora Jones, Live at The House of Blues in New Orleans. One of my favorites, pretty mellow, but recorded well.
Derek Trucks Band. This DVD got some good reviews, although I still have not had a chance to watch it yet. I have seen him with the Alman Bros and was quite impressed, so I'm looking forward to finding time to watch this one.
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I currently use a CCA in V1 with a matched pair of Siemens ECC83's in V2 & V3 with B&K solid state monoblocks. I think these tubes have very good detail retreieval, even at lower volumes, and the noise floor seems a little lower with these tubes than it did with some Mullard's I've tried.
Mark, I saved the information below from one of your earlier posts for my own clarification. I hope you don't mind me pasting it here again.
Here are the plusses and minuses of the two modes:
LoZ
+ drives very low impedance loads such as 5KO
+ drives cables up to 50 feet long with no ill effect
+ drives multiple amplifiers such as main and subwoofer
+ or has a slightly more extended (really slight) top end.
+ often perceived as having tighter bass control, (although that's not my personal opinion.)HiZ
+ Is the shortest possible signal path (passive components), and least active components between input and output
+ Has the lowest distortion
+ Has the lowest noise
+ Has (IMO) the most clarity
+ Has the least interaction with the PSU
"Ideally" should be driving modest length cables (6ft) and into a load of about 47KO or more. Even better at 100kO
+ or has a very slightly less extended top end.If you use LoZ mode, V2&V3 MUST be the same tube type because each tubes is fully specific to one channel. So, if you want the L&R to sound the same, you need the same tube type in each.
When using LoZ, you MIGHT find your level controls widely different from each other. Left at 2 o'clock and maybe Right at 10 o'clock. This is NOT A PROBLEM, nor should it be a concern. That's WHY we have those controls. It is making up for all the combined small differences between tubes, resistors, and even speaker placement. Don't fret over this - the controls are doing what they are meant to do.
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I too have similar problems with my basement. While this will not prevent the water from coming in, one thing I did while remodeling was to install a subfloor in the "finished" room. "Dri-core" panels are 2'x2' wood panels with a plastic bottom which fit together and are very easy to install, and can be purchased at Menards or Home Depot. This will elevate your floor by 2" and keep your carpet dry when seepage occurs. You can then just pull your carpet back, wetvac up the seepage and your carpet stays dry. I would also suggest buying indoor/outdoor carpeting for the basement, it comes with padding attached and is mold and mildew resistant. Also a dehumidifier will help your basement dry faster too. Below is a link to the dri-core website.
http://www.dricore.com/en/eindex.htm
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Remove the stock "feet" and replace with spikes. This will also reduce the cabinet vibration being transferred to the floor.
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http://www.cobaltcable.com/audio_interconnect.htm
Maybe a little on the high side, but not bad for longer runs.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?WebPage_ID=3
Parts Express, choose from many offered at lower prices than Cobalt.
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Above is a link to a "side table" sold by Ikea. I ordered 2 to use as amp stands. I disgarded the legs in favor of some spikes and now use them for my amps to rest on. They are not solid wood, but do appear to be, yet they are plenty sturdy. At $12.99, you can't go wrong. The underside has threaded holes which appear to accept different size threads, as the spikes I used were the same size that fit the feet of RF-7's, yet the screws provided with the legs for the table seemed to be a larger/wider thread. The table also comes in various colors.[
] Shoot me an e-mail if you'd like to see pictures, I am unable to attach pictures here for some reason.
Frank - I have no idea what you're talking about. 
RF -7 Spike Thread spec.
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
1/4-20