Jump to content

Fisherdude

Members
  • Posts

    9
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Fisherdude's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/9)

0

Reputation

  1. Hey guys... Thanks for all the input. It pretty much supported my concerns, that it would be very difficult to get all the black off, at least to the point where it would be clear enough that stain would look nice. I have seen refinish jobs done where black paint had been removed from american black walnut veneer, leaving some black residue in the pores. After staining and finishing, the final result did look quite nice. The challenge on any wood lighter than walnut would be in getting a consistent color, difficult indeed on lighter woods such as ash or oak. A member on AK actually did a test board, where he painted birch black, stripped it, and then did test stains. Couldn't get all the black off. There was another suggestion about using aircraft stripper, which is much more aggressive, with a caution that that might entail too much risk of lifting the veneer. Thanks again for the replies, this is a terrific group! Clay
  2. An acquaintance wants to refinish a pair of originally black Heresy II's, and go to a walnut or oak stain. Does anyone know what kind of wood or veneer would be under the original black finish? Obviously, Klipsch probably wouldn't have put cosmetically flawless veneer under black paint, but is it a good enough quality (plain) veneer or wood to look OK stained? Or is it just plain MDF under the paint? Thanks for any info! Clay
  3. I didn't realize that the blo would do that much, by itself, for the grain and color. I think I'll do a test with the walnut veneer I have for the repair, use some of the oil on the veneer, and then check the color match with the speakers. Thanks! Clay
  4. I'm a little surprised at the white line, most white glues and other wood/carpentry glues usually dry pretty clear. If there's a small depression along the glue line, you might try this... One way to fill the small imperfections along joint lines is to save the dust from your sanding of the veneer, and mix it with some white glue until you have a thick paste. Rub this sawdust/glue mixture into the crack or joint line. When it dries just sand it smooth. It should be almost invisible. The felt-pen type of stain has already been mentioned. Also, I know that Home Depot carries a line of similar products. They are like a thick crayon that comes in various colors to match wood. You just rub it back and forth along the crack. I'm sure one of these will work pretty well for you. Good luck! Clay
  5. First, I'm going to be doing some repair to the veneer on my KG-4's. UPS did its famous "six foot drop" in my driveway, and one corner is crushed in about 3/4". So, it's going to take some replacement walnut veneer, which I have. Obviously I have to restain this new veneer, and then attempt to match it across the whole side. Question: I assume I'll be better off using an oil-based stain, instead of water-based or gel stain? Since the original finish was rubbed linseed oil, an oil-based stain should penetrate better, and give a more uniform finish? After light sanding, of course. Second, has anyone ever tried Tung Oil? I really want to keep the appearance of the finish as close to original as possible, but I'd like to have it a tad more durable than boiled linseed oil, but without doing anything as radical as polyurethane or some other varnish-type material. Since Tung Oil is a rubbed-on finish, would it look close to linseed oil but with a little more durability? Thanks a bunch for any thoughts! Clay
  6. My current primary setup is a Fisher 500C and a pair of Klipsch KG-4's and I absolutely love it! I've been working my way through some thrift store speakers and other assorted junkers over the past year before I bought the KG-4's. What a difference! They bring out the best in the Fisher. In my den (very small room) I've got a Fisher 400 hooked up to a pair of Paragigm Mini-Monitors. Astonishing bass from a small two-way...down to 40 Hz. I've had people in to listen, and they're swiveling their heads around asking "where's the sub???"! Enjoy your 400. I agree: terrific phono stage and FM reception. Clay
  7. Hey Tom... I missed the beginning of this thread, but I don't need another one anyway! Just to wet your appetite for what's awaiting you with your new toy, I'm running a Fisher 500C, and a Fisher 400, and a Fisher X-101C integrated amp through my Klipsch KG-4's (no, not at the same time!), and the sound is astonishing. You picked a great piece of tube gear. You're going to love it. Have fun! Clay
  8. I've been looking for some nice speakers to replace the junkers in my basement listening room, and I recently found a nice pair of KG-4's in walnut. I'm in love with the sound! Much better than the Paradigms in my other room. Here's the only problem. The UPS goon literally dumped the box in my driveway and left. My daughter almost backed her car over them. Apparently the box landed on one corner. Both bases are broken into pieces. Luckily, just along the corner glue joints, so easily repairable. One corner of one cabinet is damaged. About a 1/2 to 3/4 inch piece of the corner is crushed. I've found a source of nice walnut veneer, so it looks like I'll be getting some serious practice time with an Exacto knife and some glue. Three of the plastic feet/corner braces inside the base sections are broken into pieces. While I could probably superglue them, I would really like to find some replacements. I called Klipsch, and no luck. Although they did have a replacement logo! Any ideas? Does anyone have a KG-4 cabinet they've stripped for drivers, etc., and might have any feet? Thanks in advance for any help! Clay
  9. Do you have a name or style, etc., for the fabric at JoAnne's? Thanks! Clay
×
×
  • Create New...