sivadselim

Assuming your "older Yamaha" doesn't have any sort of auto-calibration, you really need to calibrate your speakers' and sub's relative levels properly. This usually requires an SPL meter, and if your procesor doesn't include some internal test tones for doing this, some proper test tones.

That's it. This is a reasonably capable version of Audyssey. Why? Good idea, probably. The actual value you end up at for the subwoofer's level trim is sort of meaningless. It is relative to the sub's master volume. Audyssey (and your AVR) set it to a value that calibrated your subwoofer to the correct level. If you were to turn the sub's own master volume down by 6 dB and run Audyssey again, the subwoofer level trim in the AVR should come out to be "0 dB". It's all relative. You may just prefer the sub's output a little higher than Audyssey sets it. Within reason (a few added dBs), there is really nothing wrong with this. Many people prefer to run there subs a few dBs 'hot'. You need to re-run Audyssey each time you make changes.

Just realize that those were HIS specific results in HIS room. He found that with the 2 subs in HIS room, with no equalization applied by Audyssey, the Depth setting provided the flattest response. You might get different results, though, were you to do those measurments, yourself, in YOUR room.

I think you sort of have it backwards but those settings are not necessarily specifically for music or movies, really. They are for adjusting the sub's output to your own taste. Usually Punch is considered to be desirable for music but it can also help with movies. And Depth is usually considered something more desirable for movies, which usually, generally, contain deeper content than music. Applying either of those settings after running Audyssey with the sub's EQ set to Flat will obviously alter the equalization that Audyssey applied. And, yes, I think that if you want them to function as they are supposed to function, you should run Audyssey with the sub set to Flat, first, as you seem to be doing. But, theoretically, you could imagine a situation where, depending upon what the sub's native in-room frequency response (FR) looked like, setting either the Punch or Depth setting prior to running Audyssey could actually be beneficial in terms of reducing the amount of EQ that Audyssey has to apply. So, for example, if you had a dip in your FR at or near the frequencies that the Punch setting enhances, you could use the Punch setting to help eliminate that dip prior to running Audyssey. Assuming a flat FR is what you want (and it might not be), if you could measure the in-room FR of all 3 of the sub's available EQ settings with no Audyssey EQ applied, you could determine which setting provides the flattest FR, to start. But, again, with Audyssey, and no way to measure the native in-room FR of the settings, I would be tempted to set the sub's EQ to Flat, run Audyssey, and leave it alone. Applying those settings atop the equalization that Audyssey is applying seems to me to be a bit superfluous. Keep it simple. What version of Audyssey do you have?

There is no reason to use a Y-splitter. The "gain" in output that you get from using a splitter isn't a "gain" that can't be obtained with the sub's own master volume or with a higher level trim in the AVR. A Y-splitter won't increase the sub's overall headroom. You are going to calibrate the sub to a particular level, anyway, so any perceived "gain" is moot. That said, it won't hurt. It can help in some instances where the sub's Auto-ON (if you use this) does not trigger properly, although the AVR's sub level trim can usually be tweaked to do the same thing.

Audyssey doesn't set that setting. There is really no reason that it shouldn't be set to 120Hz. The LFE channel can contain info as high as 120Hz. Why would you not use the Depth setting if you wanted "deeper" bass? Frankly, with Audyssey, I'd be tempted to just set it to Flat prior to running Audyssey. You might find THIS thread of interest, though. Why?

Give us some more info. To what size did Audyssey set all your speakers? Crossovers? And did you change any of that? If so, to what? Do you have the LPF of LFE in the Denon set to 120Hz? I'm not sure what you mean by "I would like to get a bit more bass" but I would experiment with the Flat and Depth settings, too, depending upon what it is exactly you want.

Connecting both the speakers and sub to the same pair of speaker-level outputs on the receiver/amp should not be a problem at all. This would represent the exact same parallel conection were the speakers connected to the sub's speaker-level outputs (were it equipped with them). If a receiver/amp has 'A' and 'B' outputs, they can also be used with the same results as those outputs represent parallel outputs, too. And this facilitates easier wiring as you dont have to put both pairs of wires into one pair of outputs.

The Epik Empire will eat this sub alive in term of tightness, SPL, frequency and THD. Two 15" drivers with 600W RMS in a 140Lbs sealed compact fridge-size enclosure for $799, Klipsch doesn't stand a chance. And you know this how? [:^)]

Sounds like something is amiss.

Good price if used. Very good price if new. Should be a very musical sub. Just make certain it's a RSW-10d and not a RW-10d. Big difference.

Why? It might be simpler to use the amp's A and B outputs or just simply connect a sub and speakers to the same outputs if there are only two pair of outputs (no available (granted, shoving all those wires in can be difficult without, using, for example, piggy-backed banana plug). Provided a sub's speaker-level outputs are NOT high-passed (and that, therefore, not being a goal), which wiring scheme you might want to use would probably depend upon which was most convenient. If, for example, you were locating a sub at the back of the room, you can see how running a pair of wires to the sub and another pair all the way back to your speakers at the front might not be the preferable way to wire the sub and speakers. In this circumstance, wiring both the sub and speakers directly to the amp might actually be what is preferable. You could possibly make an argument that passing the signal through the sub might not be desirable, if avoidable, although I wouldn't necessarily try to make that argument.

You can't tell whether the speaker-level outptuts are high-passed simply by looking. That filter, if there, is internal and won't be adjustable. What Polk sub is it? I think that most of their subs' speaker-level outputs, nowadays, are simply pass-through and are not high-passed. But, again, it would be worth your while to try and determine this for certain. Check the Polk website and email them if necessary.

Did you see the screen capture and link to the Sub10 and Sub12 manual, above? The idea is that you use the variable low-pass to adjust the sub's output to to either the high-pass that is being imposed or to the speaker's low-end capability if that is higher than the high-pass. Or to wherever you want to adjust it. With a fixed high-pass but a variable low-pass you can actually compensate for peaks or troughs around that high-pass frequency. In the past almost all sub's high-level outputs were high-passed but increasingly, now, you see subs where they are simply pass-through. And, actually, even though many still have high-level inputs, many are not including the high-level outputs at all, nowadays. High-passed speaker-level outputs on subs make perfect sense to me. Frankly, NOT high-passing them is what doesn't make much sense to me. Except for possibly facilitating easier wiring in some instances, why even put them there if they aren't going to be high-passed? BTW, there are subs with high-passed line-level outputs, too.

For example, from the Sub10/Sub12 Manual:

Many are high-pass filtered ~80-120Hz.

Are the sub's speaker-level outputs high-pass filtered or not? This would be important to know. If the sub's speaker-level outputs ARE high-pass filtered, and you DO want to high-pass your Heresies, then you need to connect the speakers to the sub's speaker-level outputs. If the sub's speaker-level outputs ARE high-pass filtered but you DO NOT wish to high-pass filter your Heresies, then you should connect the Heresies to the Kenwood, NOT to the sub. You can use the A/B outputs to accomplish this if you wish but you can also simply connect both the sub and the speakers to the same pair of outputs on the Kenwood. Using the A/B connection would allow you to easily play the speakers without the sub (of course, turning off the sub is simple enough, too). If the sub's speaker-level outputs are NOT high-passed, though, whether you connect the speakers to the sub or the Kenwood should not matter. The result should be the same.

An AVR (or processor) can be configured as having NO SUB and the soundtrack can still be reproduced exactly as intended. Yes, this includes the LFE channel. Configuring an AVR (or processor) as such doesn't impose any sort of DRC, no info is dropped, and the level of the LFE channel that is mixed into the front channels is not reduced. The AVR doesn't know the capability of the speakers connected to it. Of course, whether the speakers can reproduce what they are sent is another issue altogether.

Well, yeah, of course. But for someone who has no subwoofer and who follows their AVR's instruction manual and/or uses Audyssey, MCACC, or YPAO to calibrate/EQ their setup, the NO SUB setting IS what is going to be used. I am pretty certain that it does not. I think that it may be reduced by 3dB and then split across the front channels. This has been visited before in some other AV forums. Yes, 'no center' engages DRC.But that the LFE channel is not attenuated in this circumstance would only serve to support an argument that it shouldn't be rerouted to the mains. Still, you will never see an instruction manual mention 'tricking" an AVR into having a sub connected in order to keep the LFE channel from being rerouted.

You realize that there can be quite a bit of very low-frequncy info encoded even in the main channels of many movies' soundtracks, right?

"Proper"? Yes, with two dissimilar subs it usually IS hard. How hard? Depends upon how much effort you want to put into it and how "proper" you want it to be. Assuming that Audyssey is what you will be using to EQ, yes, that can help, depending upon which version of Audyssey you have. But you will still need to adjust each sub's individual level and phasing, properly, prior to running Audyssey. And simply level-matching them may not be the best tactic. It might take a bit of trial and error, but the goal would be to have to apply as little EQ with Audyssey as possible. It is doable and you might even be able to use the two subs to your advantage, but it's not really something you can just "plug and play". Not if you want it done "proper".

All AVRs and pre/pros can redirect the LFE channel to the main channels. And they WILL do that if configured as having NO SUB connected. Good idea? Depends upon your exact situation, goals, speakers, and listening habits. I currently have no sub and have my AVR configured as such and have no qualms at all about sending the LFE channel to my mains. None at all. A properly and well-designed speaker, even a small speaker, will not just "up and die" when sent the LFE channel. Of course, a healthy dose of common sense is needed. But you don't commonly see the recomendation to falsely configure an AVR as having a subwoofer connected even when it doesn't have a suvbwoofer connected. That setting (NO SUB) is there for a reason.But we're off-track, here. It's not really relevant to the OP's post.

If you have an AV receiver or processor you CAN wire a sub (or subs) to the left and right channels if you desire. You just need to setup the AVR or processor as having NO SUB so that the LFE channel info (when there is LFE channel info) will be rerouted into the L and R channels in the appropriate measure.But doing so wouldn't really be useful in helping to navigate the issues involved with running dissimilar subs. With 2-channel sources? If the front speakers are set to SMALL, the bass below the crossover setting will be rerouted to the subwoofer.

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No Y-adapter is necessary. The gain in dB that you get from using both inputs isn't something that can't be gained by simply turning the sub's master volume knob up a bit. A Y-adapter can't give the sub more overall headroom. If you end up operating an RSW-15 at anywhere near the maximum volume setting then you have some other major issues to deal with that a Y-adapter isn't going to help with at all. So, connect from your AVR's subwoofer output to one of the sub's inputs labeled LINE IN. Set the LOW PASS switch to DISABLE. This should disable the sub's low-pass filter but just to be safe set the low-pass filter as high as possible, too. My experience with the RSW-15 is that it is best to just leave the sub ON all the time. I would recommend you disable the AutoON. If your AVR has some sort of AutoCAL/AutoEQ software such as Audyssey or MCACC, then set the polarity switch to 0°. Otherwise, you are on your own to determine the best setting for the polarity switch, empirically. If the Monster cable's price is reasonable, then it will be fine. But there is no need to spend a lot of money on a cable. Any decent cable should work.