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schwock5

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    Tube "curious"

    in Talkin' Tubes

    Posted

    with a HT bypass though, doesn't the tube amp have to be on at all time then? that can't be good......

    i could see that being fine for a SS integrated for home theater, but seems problematic to run it through the tube amp powered on all the time, unless i'm missing something?

    Tube "curious"

    in Talkin' Tubes

    Posted

    28 minutes ago, Sam S. said:

    I also switch back and forth between the tube amp for 2-channel listening (CD's and turntable), and HT (movies, TV, video games). I could or originally intended to use the pre-outs from the AVR to one of the line in's on the tube amp, which would work, but I've found that just swapping banana plugs back and forth works good for me (one set of cables from the AVR, another one from the tube amp, center to AVR). Sometimes, if I'm playing a video game, I just run the sound thru the AVR on the center at low volume and listen to music via the tube amp at the same time. If you want a one-stop solution without a switching box, you can (if your AVR has pre-outs) run that to a line input on the tube amp, but like you, I was concerned about doing that because of unnecessary wear on the tubes.

     

    I have a jolida black ice F22 (integrated), and am quite happy with the improvement over my marantz AVR.

     

    Good luck.

    for the black ice integrated, would that need a separate pre-amp for the turntable?

    Tube "curious"

    in Talkin' Tubes

    Posted

    25 minutes ago, Sam S. said:

    I also switch back and forth between the tube amp for 2-channel listening (CD's and turntable), and HT (movies, TV, video games). I could or originally intended to use the pre-outs from the AVR to one of the line in's on the tube amp, which would work, but I've found that just swapping banana plugs back and forth works good for me (one set of cables from the AVR, another one from the tube amp, center to AVR). Sometimes, if I'm playing a video game, I just run the sound thru the AVR on the center at low volume and listen to music via the tube amp at the same time. If you want a one-stop solution without a switching box, you can (if your AVR has pre-outs) run that to a line input on the tube amp, but like you, I was concerned about doing that because of unnecessary wear on the tubes.

     

    I have a jolida black ice F22 (integrated), and am quite happy with the improvement over my marantz AVR.

     

    Good luck.

    i won't be able to swap the cables since the receiver will be in a cabinet and hard to access and the tube will be on top of the cabinet. so was looking into a switcher to bring it all within reach next to the tube amp.

     

    there are some where it switches if it detects a signal automatically, but not sure what would happen if i was listening to the tube and accidentally turned on the marantz?

    one that was remote controlled would be nice to program my harmony with some delays

    Tube "curious"

    in Talkin' Tubes

    Posted

    Hey all,

     

    there's a lot of information in this tube section to go through, but had some straight up questions to start with if anyone can chime in or point me to some specific threads that could help.

    I've been a straight receiver/SS amp guy since i've gotten into this hobby since i've always been a mix of HT and music, but now i'm starting to get some urges i'd like to explore. i'm tube "curious". 

     

    There's no way for me budget or space wise to setup a dedicated 2 channel system. My music is always integrated with the home theater.

    Current mains are the original RF-7s, but looking to upgrade in the future to the RF-7iiis or Cornwall IVs as the next evolution.

    once my basement is done in a few weeks and the system re-setup i'd like to start exploring tubes potentially.

     

    questions below:

    1.obviously i don't wanna use a tube amp full time for TV/movies as it would be too much mileage.

    So to integrate tubes, i was looking around and saw a few products where you can connect 2 amps to a switcher and output to 1 set of speakers.

    Using a switch like this i could connect my receiver's Front L/R speaker out (or if i had an external SS home theater amp, those speaker outs) to this switcher, and then using a zone 2 pre-out to a tube amp connect the speaker outs to this switcher and essentially be able to swap back and forth for HT/music.

    main zone woulds be HT and zone 2 use the tubes for 2 channel. am i missing anything on this setup, anyone use these sort of product before, does it degrade quality a lot?

     

    2. If this solution works, seems strange to use nice cables when in the beginning path you have a separate short section to this switcher, any advice?

     

    3. using this setup, i guess the next question would be, would there be a big difference between using a straight tube amp vs a tube integrated?

    essentially using the receiver i could use my turntable and cd player through the receiver to a tube amp, but technically i could run the analog out of the cd player and my turntable into a tube integrated and run it that way using the switcher method described above as a pure "analog" stream (obv disregarding cds are digital). but at least from the outputs of each source. what are the benefits/cons?

     

    Thank you if advance, and let me know if there's any questions i can answer to help pinpoint where to go from here.

     

    Klipsch RC-64 vs RC-7 (revived)

    in Home Theater

    Posted

    It's been a few years since i've seen some comments on this.

    Anyone have any further updates or comparisons?

     

    I currently have the RC-7 paired with my RF-7s, however, in the interest of lowering the TV, if you had the option to do a direct trade just to lower the height, is there a true sacrifice in sound?

    I know the RC-7 is the true match for the RF-7, but curious if anyone has any updated thoughts.

     

    This is strictly for the 1st generation (not mk ii, or iii)

     

    Thank you,

    Home Theater Build Out - need advice

    in Architectural

    Posted

    also quick note above, that yellow insulation was the pre-existing, i've been taking it down to line the laundry room and other areas and was going to replace this with fresh/new insulation.

    a lot have mentioned for the ceiling using roxul or corning fiberglass instead of the regular pink stuff, is that the consensus for the ceiling?  soundproofing company mentioned DD+GG with pink stuff should be fine.

    Home Theater Build Out - need advice

    in Architectural

    Posted

    sorry been dormant for a while all! obviously many things have happened since the last post!

    HVAC came and moved the duct, and framer is about 75% through.

    towards the end of framing, realzied we should probably do a slight additional reroute of the duct to optimize some space and also move from HVAC refrigerant lines to tighten up the ceiling and provide better location for atmos. so this additional work should be done this week, with framing completed right after. i have a line on the door i need and then it's just pre-wire before putting up DD+GG.

     

    i picked up 4 5800 in ceiling speakers for atmos cheap on ebay and 4 of the metal enclosures to simplify installation. the enclosures will be mounted to the joist via the clips and hat channel. I also picked up 2 in walls for the surrounds as the space is so limited i can't use my normal on walls. for those enclosures i picked up 2 of the shallow depth sonance fire backer boxes (pretty much exactly like the atmos ones but big enough rectangular cutout for these speakers).

     

    For these boxes, someone mentioned rapping them in MLV almost. i was considering that, but also considering lining the back/sides with a layer of GG and drywall? would that help as well if there's room or just use a layer of MLV? currently i have no plans to use MLV, however, if i did pick up a 4x25 roll, i could use some for these boxes, but also wondering if i should line behind the ductwork as well (see attached picture with yellow lines of where i mean to put this). also wondering should something like this be put above the flex duct as well since there's not much room there for any insulation? essentially in the back wall there will be a vent for the air in. so my thought is sound will get in from there, but i can have MLV above and behind as an added layer. it will travel to the flex duct which goes up to the kitchen, so having a layer of MLV above that as well is another layer between that and the kitchen. 

     

    i also when i start pre-wiring am wondering if any one has any advice/recommendations for speaker terminations in wall or if it matters?

    can i just be using something like this and after connecting it all up back there put some acoustic puddy like i will be using for the outlets?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KNWB22R/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A249O53PC30JPE&psc=1

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NAEE1O9/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A1AMUYYA3CT6HJ&psc=1

     

    20200607_095304.jpg

    Surrounds for Atmos

    in Home Theater

    Posted

    i have read them, but the klipsch surrounds are kind of in-between direct and bipole.

    I noticed sometimes when i've set them up if the woofer is at 90 degrees the sound actually isn't that great since the tweeters are pointed so far way from the listener.

    I feel they don't necessarily sound best when following dolby guidelines and actually need to be set further back so the tweeters are aimed at the listeners and are more useful for multiple rows of seating or setups without rear surrounds. they've actually performed best for me when used as rear surrounds since it then spreads the rear across the entire listening row.

     

    maybe i'll do the 5800w for the sides and use the RS-35 in the rear.

    this would also probably be better for 5.1 channel SACD music

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