marems
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Posts posted by marems
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I have an RW-8 that does not play loud anymore. It does not blow fuses, where would be a good place to start the diagnostics? I am considering recapping the whole thing
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I stumbled apon this thread as I am looking for a K-124-k replacement. @p-we did you ever try to mod the horn to fit the k-135? I am interested in trying this if you had successfully completed this mod.
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@Deang here is the schematic. Trey stated in another thread there were 3 xover reversions in the RB-75. I guess I will have to see how it sounds. If anything I will install 5ohm if I don’t like the sound... btw I love the 10ohm resistor mod in the RF-7’s you shared several years back, I did this to my RF-7’s as well and improved the sound significantly.
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@Deang it’s located in the HF circuit. Strange the pcb labels it as a 6ohm too.
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I am in the process of recapping and updating the stock resistors in my RB-75’s and I have purchased all of the components to match the values I got from a schematic off of the Klipsch forums. However, My crossovers have 5 ohm resistors and not the 6 ohm resistors that were in the RB 75 crossover schematic. All of the other component values are the same, I was curious if anybody could tell me what this will do to the sound if I install the 6 ohm resistors instead of the 5 ohm. I understand the there were 3 crossover reversions.
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I have a McIntosh MC352 that I run my CF-4’s and 1st gen RF-7’s off the 4 ohm taps when ever I rotate between the two sets, it sounds more balanced on both speakers compared to the 8ohm taps.
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I updated all the caps in my Ver1. CF-4’s with the ClarityCap PX and the ClarityCap ESA series. The resistors were updated with Mills. The results were like taking a blanket off of the speakers.
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I would love to hear those! What did you think of the new Cornwalls compared to the Epics and Legends?
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1 hour ago, SWL said:
Cabs were probably leaking. If they're solid, they should have a full sound.
Or the woofs were blown. Or the crossovers were bad. Or the mids were hooked up out of phase.
I didn’t have any of those issues. I recapped the 30’s had updated the mids and tweeters to titanium diaphragms as well.. The 30’s are tuned to 36hz where as the 1st version CF-4’s were tuned to 32hz.-
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Have had both the KLF-30’s and CF’4 ver.1’s at the same time. I do not have the 30’s anymore if that says something. I had the KLF-30’s at one time for a number of years prior to the CF-4’s. I did like the legends for home theater but not for music. They did not present a full sound like the Epics do. And the CF-4’s have a subwoofer bass sound to them, I recently had to check to see if my 115r sub was on (it was not) when I was playing my CF-4’s.
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You’re welcome, and that is unfortunately true with non oem.
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My buddy has RF3’s and he ordered one from simply speakers and it ended up being the wrong impedance that’s was higher than the oem. It had some nasty sibilance sound to it
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I recently picked up a pair of RF3’s and after some jam sessions the tweeter in one of the towers is quieter than the other towers tweeter. Is this a sign of a diaphragm failure? Or is it the crossover network. I have not removed the diaphragm to test the impedance. I am hoping it is not the diaphragm because these are not available anymore 🙄
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Thanks everyone for your input. I was told before that it ultimately boils down to personal preference for which tap to use. I do like to hear others experiences so thank you again everyone
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Hi Everybody! I’ve got some first generation RF-7’s and I am running them off a McIntosh MC 352. The question is, what is the normal impedance for the RF-7’s? Are they 6ohm or 4ohm? I have ran them off the 4ohm taps ever since i got them due to what I had read about the low impedance dips they pull. I just recently hooked them up to the 8ohm tap; and what I’ve found so far is the 8ohm tap gives a more in your face presentation with a slight sizzle sound to the highend compared to the 4ohm tap. The 8ohm tap also makes the Mac run slightly warmer to the touch..... 4 or 8 ohm tap? I would like to hear some observations from those who have run 1st gen RF-7’s off autoformer Mac amps. Thank you!
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Yes i just replaced the caps and resistors, I wanted a scematic because of the seperate .22uf cap I discovered on the underside of the board, just never saw anything done like that and was curious if any schematics showed it and to see if there are any different version schematics on line
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Does anyone have a copy of the CF-2 xover schematic? I can’t find a copy anywhere
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Message sent.
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Bump
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Would you consider selling and shipping just a pair of the RS-7’s??? I have been in search of the RS-7’s
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Fremont, Ne
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Im looking for RS-7’s white or black finish. Dont have to be perfect ether.
many thanks
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Hello Dean, I was just curious about the benefits of bypassing and what it does. I think I have an understanding of it.
Klipsch Epic Owners Group
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
I have the 1st version CF-4’s and they had spikes that screwed straight into the bottom of the speaker cabinet. Needless to say after time the wood started to strip out so I found a spike kit on parts express. I really like them because now I can angle the upwards towards my listening position. Here’s the link
https://www.parts-express.com/Speaker-Cabinet-1-2-Super-Toe-Spike-Set-4-Pcs.-240-730