sbryan

I have two RF-3s, two RF-3 IIs, one RC-3 & two RS-3 driven by a Marantz SR7005 receiver. (All but the RF-3 IIs are 10 years old and the two RF-3 IIs were purchased second hand a year ago.) The receiver, one year old, has been in for repair twice recently and the warranty station keeps saying that the speakers or wiring is not within specs (6 to 8 ohms). I checked the wiring with speakers connected (not connected to receiver) and also directly from the speaker wiring posts and it measures 4.1 ohms. What gives? Removing the jumper between the wiring posts, the top pair measured (no resistance) and the bottom pair measured 4.1 ohms. This was the same with the older towers as it was the recent towers. Specs say these speakers are 8 ohms. What is going on? BTW, this receiver is awesome with these speakers when its operating.

I used to run my Reference-3s on an Onkyo and found it too bright. I switched to Marantz for a great improvement. Your personal preferences may differ but I couldn't be happier with my new SR7005, series 3 center, towers (LF, RF, RR, LR) & surrounds @ sides L & R. Most important is to match speaker characteristics with receiver so that your ears are pleased.

I've had an Onkyo and three Marantz receivers. I just got the new SR7005 and it is awesome with my Reference 3 speakers in a 7.1 arrangement and the HSU subwoofer. The Marantz sound matches perfectly with the Klipsch horns. Bryan Dallas, TX

Thanks for the quick feedback. I still like the RF3s, I just thought it would be an opportune time to improve the front speakers if I had to buy two more anyway. I need to keep the RC3 as it just barely fits into the TV stand/cabinet. I would go with two RF35s if I have to in order to match the RC3. FYI, I am running these with a Marantz SR9300 using a HSU Research VTF3-Turbo, so I have plenty of bass for the low end. I have tweaked the system for room acoustics with an Audio Control 5-channel equalizer.

I have RF3s & RC3 in front with RS3s in the rear. I want to replace the RF3s with larger towers and move the RF3s to the rear and the RS3s to the sides. Keeping the RC3 in the center what would be a good tower for the left & right front? Bryan

I am taking the SR9300 to the repair shop this week but I wonder if I should just upgrade instead. I think the processor chip is dead, only outputs sound on center channel with much reduced volume. My System: RF3s (L/R/Front, Center & RS3s @ L/R Rear with HSU VTF3 with Turbo. The Marantz SR9300 is tweaked to the room with an Audio Control Bijou 5.1 channel equalizer.I originally had an Onkyo (898?), but it was too bright with the Klipsch. I love the mellow tone quality of the Marantz but it lacks the "attack" portion of the bass sounds and I noticed the "squeaks" from fingers on the guitar frets are missing during classical guitar music. Can I have both high and low from one receiver? What would it be?I just upgraded the TV to a Mitsubishi 65" Diamond (so HDMI I/O is important) and in the future I plan to replace the front and center speakers with RF7s or equivalent and move the existing RF3s to the rear with the RS3s going on each side for 7.1.Thanks in advance for all input and opinions. Bryan

What has the most influence (tone & sound characteristics) on the system, the preamp or the amp?

And the saga continues. I was documenting all connections and settings in advance of the tech coming over Monday to "tweek" the system and I discovered I had no sound from the right surround speaker. After double checking all connections with no change, I by-passed the Audio Controls equalizer for that channel and it made no difference. I then swapped surround speakers and still no sound from the right surround channel. It looks like I'm going to have to have the receiver serviced before I can have anyone balance the system for me. i'm going to call Marantz next wek to see where I need to to take or send the receiver for service.

I have recently replaced the subwoofer in my home system and would like an experienced Marantz technician to review and adjust if necessary my SR9300 receiver settings to optimize this system. All equipment is operating and I have adjusted speaker levels using a sound meter and test CDs but I would like an "expert's" opinion to make certain I am getting the maximum from this system. Bryan

I have a Hsu Research TN1220 that needs a replacement amplifier. Would a plate amplifier from a Bob Carver / Sunfire Tower Subwoofer be a good replacement? I don't know the ohm rating of either brand speaker but the 2700 watt output Sunfire would surpass the 250 watt Hsu Research amp that I have now. Features and Specs 2700-watt amp featuring patented Tracking Downconverter power supply Frequency response: 16 Hz to 100 Hz (+0, -3 dB) Greater than 116 dB peak SPL with room gain Input coupling is optical and it accepts standard and high-level inputs Crossover points variable from 35 Hz to 100 Hz Crossover slope 36 dB/octave Input level (volume) control Phase continuously adjustable 0 to 180 degree Passive 70 Hz 6 dB per octave hi-pass line level output for satellite loudspeakers Thanks for your help.

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I thank you all for the informative responses. It may be a waste of time (per dragon fry), but I will enjoy the effort of trying to balance my system with the equalizer. This is my only choice as the area is cannot be easily modified (it is our living room) and I have the "wife factor" to consider. As one poster noted, an EQ can help some overly bright speakers and I had previously noticed that the EQ helped when I was running the Onkyo TX777 with the Klipsch. The new Marantz will allow to tweak each channel individually rather that just the left and right fronts as the Onkyo did. One more question, does it matter if the RS meter is on it's side when measuring? It would make it easier, when mounted on the tripod, to be able to read from one side if the scale face was visible from that angle rather than trying to look down on the meter from above and behind. Thanks again

---------------- On 6/12/2005 11:12:40 PM dragonfyr wrote: Meter Compensation Values: Add the following values to the meter reading: 10Hz add 20dBs 12Hz add 16.5dB 16Hz add 11.5dB 20Hz add 7.5dB 25Hz add 5dB 31.5Hz add 3dB 40Hz add 2.5dB 50Hz add 1.5dB 63Hz add 1.5dB 80Hz add 1.5dB 100Hz add 2dB 125Hz add .5dB ---------------- Please provide additional explaination as to when and how to use these compensation values. For instance, I have a Marantz SR9300 with an Audio Control Bijou 1/3 octave equalizer installed between the pre-outs and the amp-ins of the SR9300 to drive Klipsch Reference 3 Series speakers (front/center/rear) and Hsu Research TN-1220 sub. I used the Marantz built-in pink noise generator and on-screen set-up menu to set the volume of each speaker output to be the same with the Radio Shack analog meter (weighing=C/response=slow). Using "The Sheffield / Coustic Test and Demonstration Disc" (tracks 19-24: One third octave band test frequencies) results were as follows: 25 to 63 Hz = -10 to -4 @ 100 dB scale 80 to 160 Hz = -8 to +1 @ 90 dB scale 250 to 630 Hz = -1 to 0 @ 80 dB scale 800 to 2K Hz = -3 to -1 @ 80 dB scale 2.5 to 6.3K Hz = -1 to +3 @ 80 dB scale 8 to 20K Hz = -9 to +1 @ 80 dB scale 1) Should all frequencies be EQ adjusted to be flat @ the 80 dB scale? 2) What adjustments would you suggest? 3) How would your compensation values be utilized in these adjustments? I ran the previous test with sound on all speakers. I plan to disable the output for all channels but one and adjust each (LF/C/RF/RB/LB) separately as required. All advice appreciated. Thanks

RUN, Do Not Walk, Away from the ONKYO. I've had an Onkyo TX-777 for fours now and it is way too bright for the Reference 3 series speakers! I even added an Audio Control Bijou 8-octave equalizer in an attempt to help the sound. Fortunately the left channel has just started to cut in and out so I have an excuse to replace this dog. I'm looking at the Marantz SR9300 although the Pioneer Elite would be a second choice.